damaged brass block drain plug, suggestions?

[Miljack]

I have a buggered up brass drain plug in the block that is being extremely stubborn. Any ideas on how to get it out? I've tried vice grips, gator socket, arguuuh :evil:

any body? I really don't want to try to drill it out as its the bottom plug in the side of the block...

thanks
Jack

[east tx skier]

I just did the same thing although I don't think it's a total mangle. I just buttoned the rest back up and ran 5 gallons of antifreeze through the engine.

[Andrew]

just drill 3/4 of the way through and use an ez-out

[Miljack]

Andrew,
I don't think I can get a drill to it. I MIGHT be able to get a right angle drill with a very short bit on it...

Skier, I might just have to do that as I'm out of time to mess with this much more...

thanks,
Jack

[TRBenj]

Is it past the point of getting a good 6 point socket on the bolt? If you had done that in the first place, it likely wouldnt have stripped.

[Miljack]

Tr,
yep, WAY past that! I know 'bout the 6 pt., I was in a hurry, and this is the result!

Jack

[Andrew]

can u get a drill on the side/top/bottom of the plug?
drill through with the largest bit u can get away with, stick something like an allen wrench through the hole, and turn with that....

[east tx skier]

Is it past the point of getting a good 6 point socket on the bolt? If you had done that in the first place, it likely wouldnt have stripped.

Tim, mine may not be. I know the plug is 3/4" NPT. What size socket is it (yeah I know, search function).

[TRBenj]

Is it past the point of getting a good 6 point socket on the bolt? If you had done that in the first place, it likely wouldnt have stripped.

Tim, mine may not be. I know the plug is 3/4" NPT. What size socket is it (yeah I know, search function).

No idea what size it is, Doug. Your plug in question is on the manifold, right? (I think Jack's is on the block.) I couldnt even tell you what your plug looked like- I havent taken a close look at the newer plugs which dont use the 1/2" ratchet. If its just a standard hex, just go test fit some sockets. Apply penetrating lube generously, then put a breaker bar on it.

[east tx skier]

Thanks, Tim. I hit it really generously with PB Blaster already to no avail. I need to spend an extra $10 at sears to get free shipping, so this may be a good thing to add to cart.

edit. My dealer tells me that a ratchet won't fit behind that socket and to use a 1 1/16 box wrench. I give that a try.

[jchamlin]

east_tx_skier...you put 5 gallons of Antifreeze through? I drained my block and then ran the engine enough to get one gallon thru. I usually don't put anitfreeze in at all, but I'm getting some years on the boat and thought it was be good maintenance. Your statement of 5 gallons made me think I have not put enough in?!?!

Miljack - I just winterized my boat last weekend. I used a 2 ft water tube from pep boys. I disconnected the water intake from the hull, stuck one end of the tube in the intake line and the other in the antifreeze. After starting the engine, it sucked the antifreeze out of the bottle...seemed to work pretty well. I'm in CLT also...if you want a hand.

[east tx skier]

Well, my original plan after changing the fluids was to warm it up one last time, then drain all the water. After that, I was going to disconnect the hose from the top of the raw water pump and pour roughly 1.5 gallons of RV antifreeze into that hose through a funnel where it connects to the tstat. This was according to my local CC dealer's instructions. But since I couldn't get one of my plugs lose, I was going to have to suck it up with a hose in order to blow the remaining water out the exhaust. So that, coupled with the fact that I knew I wasn't supposed to dilute RV antifreeze, made me think that 5 gallons was sufficient overkill to give me cover.

Long story short as it pertains to your question, is I think, according to what my dealer told me, the block, etc. will hold just over 1.5 gallons of antifreeze. If you've drained completely before adding antifreeze, best way to tell would be to see if you've got antifreeze coming out of the exhaust pipe (kind of a two person job from a practical standpoint).

I've never done the antifreeze thing before, but like you, I figured it would be worth it for the corrosion inhibition. Of course, if it's not full up, then there's oxygen in there, so I don't know how much it will accomplish versus drained dry.

No expert here. Just read a lot on the subject.

[TRBenj]

Long story short as it pertains to your question, is I think, according to what my dealer told me, the block, etc. will hold just over 1.5 gallons of antifreeze. If you've drained completely before adding antifreeze, best way to tell would be to see if you've got antifreeze coming out of the exhaust pipe (kind of a two person job from a practical standpoint).

You can fit over 3 gallons of antifreeze into a Ford (302 or 351w) before it starts to drain out of the exhaust.

[east tx skier]

Tim, is that sucking it in through the RWP from aft of the transmission cooler or pouring it in at the tstat housing?

[bchesley]

I poured two gallons into my gt40 vdrive at the positive side of raw water pump and I could hear it dripping into the muffler. I dont see how you could get three in there.