Heater Install q's

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  • jhiestand
    Senior Member of PLANETNAUTIQUE
    • Jul 2003
    • 778

    • Columbus, Ohio

    • 08 Super Air 210

    Heater Install q's

    Anyone tried to tackle installing a heatercraft in their SAN (or other Nautique). The directions are extremely general and even with a little more detail off the WakeWorld article I've run into some issues specific to a CC.

    1) There doesn't appear to be a cooling system plug on the intake manifold on the GT-40 so it looks like I'm going to have to use the supplied "T" fitting, although it appears the fuel injection tubes are super close and might have to be removed to screw the "T" in. Anyone know if that's the case or am I out in left field here? Once the "T" is in, I'd assume the thermostat goes on top and the heater barbed fitting goes to the side?

    2) There also doesn't appear to be a 5/8" plug in the water pump so I guess a hose "T" is needed (not provided). Can anyone confirm and where should it go?

    Since I got stuck at the engine installation portion right away, I decided to check out mounting the heater core. Lots of space is under the kick panel but I'm not sure best place to mount the unit. First thought was to just screw into the floor, but of course I don't know what's under there so wasn't into risking it. Anyone have an alternative solution or know if the floor is safe in that area?

    OK, I'm pretty much batting zero so far but hey, isn't this thing supposed to already have a switch in place to run the heater? I pulled the dash to check (easy peezy) and lo and behold, there's only FOUR wires that go into that entire right-side switch assembly. My best guess is that among the million-jillion wires that are all bound together back there must be three for the heater that aren't connected to anything (one for each of the three speeds). Can anyone confirm if that is the case and if so, how I might find them?

    So that was pretty much strike three and w/out any progress at all being made (except figuring out all the sticking points and sizing up the job) I decided against drilling outlet holes or anything.

    If anyone can help out it'd be great. During the week I'll probably hit up the dealership for a little help.

    Thanks.
    '08 Super Air Nautique 210
  • Frost
    • Jul 2003
    • 161



    #2
    WOW, where to start.... ok you should have gotten everything you need to connect to the engine other than the Tee fitting. You should find a big square looking fitting, this goes into where the termostat sensor is, and the sensor will connect to it. The Tee will splice into the water pump hose (after the water pump).
    I would feel better if someone else could confirm this for me.... SN?

    Mounting the heater core is easy, your right screw it to the floor. Just make sure you have it placed so once the kick board is installed it's not going to pinch the vent hose. Also try to use 3/4" or 1" screws, don't want to go through the bottom of the boat.

    Wiring the core is also easy, you should look behind the kick board for a drop of wire in 1/2" conduit, the colors are black, red, orange, and yellow. Cut the plug off and hard wire it to the heater core if you don't have access to the same Mate-N-Lock terminals. After it's wired you can use the key pad heater button for use.

    I hope all this helps you out, let me know if you have a problem.

    Comment

    • NautiqueJeff
      A d m i n i s t r a t o r
      • Mar 2002
      • 16454
      • Lake Norman

      • Mooresville, NC

      • 2025 SAN G23 PNE 1998 Ski Nautique 1985 Sea Nautique 1980 Twin-Engine Fish Nautique

      #3
      Any chance you could snap a few pictures during the install for a write-up for the site? I'm sure lots of people would find it very useful.
      I own and operate Silver Cove Marine, which is an inboard boat restoration, service, and sales facility located in Mooresville, North Carolina. We specializes in Nautiques and Correct Crafts, and also provide general service for Nautiques fifteen years old and older.

      If we can be of service to you, please contact us anytime!




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      Comment

      • nms1991
        Senior Member of PLANETNAUTIQUE
        • Apr 2004
        • 477

        • Unknown


        #4
        you have to move the fuel rail on the port side and rotate the distributor to thread the t into the intake manifold. The other hose hooks up to the side of the engine in one of the block plugs you have to make sure you have the fittings to hook up to GT-40. The thread in the block drain is 1/4 pipe and you need to adapt to 5/8" heater hose. The defroster vent is the most intimidating part of the install, make sure you use the proper sized hole saw to cut the hole.

        Comment

        • skinautique
          1,000 Post Club Member
          • Jul 2003
          • 1749

          • Colorado


          #5
          Originally posted by Frost
          WOW, where to start.... ok you should have gotten everything you need to connect to the engine other than the Tee fitting. You should find a big square looking fitting, this goes into where the termostat sensor is, and the sensor will connect to it. The Tee will splice into the water pump hose (after the water pump).
          I would feel better if someone else could confirm this for me.... SN?
          Yes you have to thread the square plug in where the thermostat sensor is and then plug the tstat sensor into this new plug. Your best bet is going to be to run the other hose into the block plug on the stbd side of the engine.

          Comment

          • jhiestand
            Senior Member of PLANETNAUTIQUE
            • Jul 2003
            • 778

            • Columbus, Ohio

            • 08 Super Air 210

            #6
            OK.. had a brief emergency as I thought I hosed up all the electrical dash switches (was a ground). It appears consensus is that the square plug needs to go where the thermostat sensor is, but to install the exhaust manifold and fuel injection rail on port side have to be removed, plus distributor needs rotated. TYuck.. that sounds daunting to me.

            Other engine connection seems to be block plug, which would require an adapter to get to 5/8" (which should be cake).

            Yes, I'll take pix and get 'em up here.
            '08 Super Air Nautique 210

            Comment

            • Moe
              • Jan 2004
              • 56

              • Clemson, SC


              #7
              If you run your return hose teed in just before your impellor that will give you heat at idle, whereas the other options the heater will cool down at idle because the water is not circulating good. This is esecially the case in v-drives that need more hose. Mine has the Excaliber so I'm not too sure about the hot water source. It seems to me I've seen GT40's with a tee in by the temp sender unit. I would recomend using a hole saw that is 1/8 bigger than what they say for your hot tubes ONLY. mine is so tight that it's hard to slide them in and out. USE WHAT THEY SAY FOR THE DEFROSTER!
              MOE SCHLABACH

              Comment

              • ag4ever
                1,000 Post Club Member
                • Feb 2004
                • 1180



                #8
                I just got my heater, so I plan to take photos to document the install on a SANTE with the excalibur engine.

                I wonder if the install will be easier or harder since i have a shower too.

                Comment

                • Rick
                  1,000 Post Club Member
                  • Mar 2004
                  • 1250

                  • San Diego, Ca

                  • 1962 Keaton Utility. 2000 Ski 1965 Barracuda

                  #9
                  I starterd my 2000 SN install today and have come to some interesting conclusions 1. The idle T before the raw water pump looks way easier than disassembling the entire top of the EFI GT-40 to mount the T at the temp sensor. 2. With the SN everything can be accessed from the back of the ski locker( I found this out after I removed the kick plate.) 3. In running the hose I tried to fish a wire from the front to back Then I saw the jump switch wire for the PP. I disconnected the wire used it to pull the fish wire forward then attached the hoses and pulled back. Piece of cake. 4.For the passenger hottube I'm thinking of running it to the bottom of the cupholder Then you could hold your drink in it or pull it out for heat. I'll let you know how it turns ouit
                  Nautiqueless in San Diego

                  Comment

                  • jhiestand
                    Senior Member of PLANETNAUTIQUE
                    • Jul 2003
                    • 778

                    • Columbus, Ohio

                    • 08 Super Air 210

                    #10
                    OK, major update. FINALLY took a break from riding to get this crazy heater installed and felt I should share. I did find that removing the manifold and port injector rails is NOT necessary if you purchase a brass 45 degree male/female adapter from your local hardware store. The brass "T" goes right on top of it and it seems to work great. THANKS James @ Mid Ohio!!! Apparently nearly all Nautiques from 2000 and up already are running a 160 degree thermostat and as suggested on this board I ran my other return line into the starboard block drain.

                    Works like a champ and thanks to everyone for the advice!
                    '08 Super Air Nautique 210

                    Comment

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