210 Heater Install

[ag4ever]

I started doing some some investigation prior to the actual install of my heater. I have a few questions to begin with. See The picture descriptions for the questions.

[ag4ever]

Add'L Question

More Questions.

[ag4ever]

Add'l Picture

Here are the parts I got from the group buy all laid out ready to go.

[jhiestand]

ag4ever -- yep, that's the right wires to hook 'er up to. Mine was identical. Snip the plugs off and just solder them color-to-color.

I don't have the hump in my '01 so not sure where you're going to be able to mount yours. I mounted my core on the floor and it wasn't exactly trivial, plus I'm not 100% sure the outlet hoses are going to route all that well as I haven't tackled those yet. Other than the floor, you might be able to glue some mounting blocks under dash and mount it vertailly (I think whitechocolate did that) or possibly mount on back wall.

I'm nervous about mounting the engine lines on my GT-40 and haven't tried tackling that, yet. You've got the newer engine, correct?

Joe

[ag4ever]

Yup, I have the excalibur 330. I am giving more thought to just taking a saw and cutting that hump out. Does anybody know what in the heck that might be there for? It is right where I want to put the heater.

[Frost]

The hump is to mount the kick boad to. You can mount the heater behind the hump on the outboard side. (thats how it's done in production). The resistor is used when an option is not installed, so when you use the button on the key pad it wont short or cause any other problems (puts a resistance on the wire).

The "Y" connector if for your defrost, to mount this you will have to remove the windshield and drill a hole in the deck to mount the vent. If you don't want the defrost just leave out the Y connector.

I know the hump is "in the way" but it's what holds the kickboard in place.

Hope this helps

[Rick]

J I looked at my GT 40 and it looks relatively straighjt forward. Remove the Temp sensor on the top of the thermostat housing. screw one of the nipples into one of the ends of the T put the sensor in the other end of the T and one of the hose barbs on the down leg of the T Then pick one of the block drains on wither side of the block and put another hose barb there.( I'm not sure they sent the right size nipple and adapter may be required) I'm scratching my head over how to fish the hoses from the front to the engine compartment.

[ag4ever]

I saw where the kick panel mounts to the "hump", but dang that thing is big. The darn near foot long screws (actually 6") that hold the kick panel on only hit the hump about 1/3 of the way up it. On top of that the hump is facing the wrong direction. It slopes away from the kick panel, and is straight down on the other side. It is like it was glassed in backwards.

If I decide to mount the kick panel in a different way, would there be any detrimental effects if I cut that hump out, and laid down a layer or two of fiberglass flat with the floor in that area? If I do that I can mount some starboard with angles screwed into the floor and under the dash, and attach the kick panel to that. By doing that it will give me a lot more space under the dash. I might even be able to push the kick panel back some and get some more leg room.

If I do cut it out, what type of resin should I use? Epoxy or Polyester?

I have done a good bit of fiberglass work, so that does not worry me. Heck I am in the process of making an 11' sailboat from scratch (glen-l feather).

This project seem to have a life of its own, and I haven't even started!

[ag4ever]

BTW, I plan to remove the windsheild in the near future (maybee next winter) to have it powder coated blue to match my tower. When I do that I will install the defroster vent. Untill then I think the two hot tubes will be enough.