'02 SANTE Heater Installation Photo Chronicle

[ag4ever]

Step Thirteen: Assemble mounting board.

[ag4ever]

Step Fourteen: Screw mounting Board together and screw to fibergals floor.

[ag4ever]

Step Fifteen: Test fit heater

[ag4ever]

Step Sixteen: Install starboard heater bracket. I chose to install the bracket with the leg under the heater so that I could shift the heater as far back and towards the hull as possible. That will allow more space for the ballast hoses and the heater vent hoses to turn any required corners.

[ag4ever]

Step Seventeen: Mount port barcket and heater to bracket.

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Note the routing for the bilge pump hose and the ballast tank hoses. I plan to insert a piece of armaflex pipe insulation to prevent the hoses from having a hole rubbed in them from the corner of the heater and the heater fan.

[ag4ever]

Step Eighteen: Remove seat cushions at rear of boat for access to run heater lines.

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Step Nineteen: Remove seat base. It is held in by two machine screws and lock washers on the two center support bars, and two rubber "bungie" style hold down straps.

[ag4ever]

Step Twenty: Remove gas tank access hatch. It is held in by three screws at the leading edge. Once these are removed, you can grap the trailing edge, and lift it out. Notice the space in that gas tank for the picnic table support to go.

[ag4ever]

Step Twenty-One: Run line from rear of boat to heater. There are two options for this step.

First, under the floor, fish a line from rear of the boat up to the port where the wires and water line come up behind the dash. I found it easier to run a stiff wire (copper grounding wire). I started at the engine, and ran it under the "lip" of the gas tank on the starboard side. I then ran it on top of the center ballast tank between it and the floor. Then the wire was fished up behind the dash. That is where I stopped for today, so I will snap photos tomorrow.

Second, the easy route would be to run them under the gunnel from the rear engine hatch to behind the dash, and just tie them up and out of the way. I really did not like the idea of hot engine water running under my gunnels, so I opted for the hard route, for now.

[awake4air]

Hey great writeup, but you didn't need to remove the fiberglass hump. I installed a 3 port heater myself and I had room even with the hump. Probably the best way to mount it is to put the squirl cage on the bottom with the vents facing upwards. If you mount it in the correct spot, you can the heater hoses to attach to the box right where they come up from the hull opening.

[ag4ever]

I plan to add more gadgets to my boat in the future, and wanted as much space as possible for them. Plus, I just hatted the lack of acces the hump thing gave me. I had previously test fitted the heater a couple weeks ago, and was just not happy with any of the locations that I had available. Now it is down low, and leaves me more room for electronics, such as CD changer, amps, etc...

[awake4air]

Yeah I contemplated the same thing. I was going to put a subwoofer in there but just decided to build a subwoofer box and put behind the drivers seat. You know a pretty good place to put amps if you want them out of the way is behind the kickpanel where the throttle is. I have two JL amps stuffed behind it and you would never even know they are in the boat. And it takes up the space that is essentially wasted.

[ag4ever]

When I redo the stereo, I plan to out some amps behind the throtle and next to the observer's seat. Under the dash will be a high power stereo radio re-broadcaster (FM stereo transmitter), a CD changer, and possibly crossovers etc. I probably will put one sub in a custom seat box behind the driver, and one in a new box under the observer's seat.

But, all that is still down the road aways.

[ag4ever]

Step Twenty-One (photos):