'02 SANTE Heater Installation Photo Chronicle

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  • ag4ever
    1,000 Post Club Member
    • Feb 2004
    • 1180



    #46
    I have not completly finished yet. Keep in mind that I did take more steps than necessary to install it, and I took a lot of brakes in between works sessions. As soon as it started becoming wok, I stopped walked away and did other things. This is meant to be fun, and there is no sense rusing it and not enjoying the work.

    I cut the chunk of fiberglass out because it really would have made mounting the heater harder with the way it was in there. (My '02 has a stupid cooler under the bow seat right in front of the driver which limist the amount of space available in front of the hump. Sure there was room, but I just did not like it. It was throwing my feng shui off knowing it was back there. Once it was removed, i had tons more space to work back there. The thing was entirly too big for the purpose it served. All it was there for was to attach the kick panel too, and it did a poor job of that as well. if CC wanted to make an attachment they should have made it verticle at the kickpanel, and only 4-5" tall, and slope down from there towards the bow.

    I would estimate my actual work time invested as 8 hours start to finish (including cutting vents that have not been cut.) The windshield vent might add some time to that if it is hard to disassemble and reassemble.

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    • ag4ever
      1,000 Post Club Member
      • Feb 2004
      • 1180



      #47
      Step Twenty-Eight: Wire Heater. I did not have any of the correct molex connectors that CC used, and the number of stores available to shop at on Memorial Day was limited, so I decided to use the single circuit Molex connectors, and replace the four circuit Molex connector that CC used. Also the way that Heater craft had the thing wired with the three circuit connector was down right stupid. If I had used their connector, there was a possibility that a live 12 volt wire could touch a ground and short out. You don't ever have a conector that has a possible 12 volt source that is not shielded.
      Attached Files

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      • ag4ever
        1,000 Post Club Member
        • Feb 2004
        • 1180



        #48
        I tested the heater at this point, and the thing sure does blow. All three fans speeds worked, and I am a happy camper.

        Normally the next step would be to cut the holes in the kick panel for the hot tubes, and remove the windshield to cut the hole for the defroster vent, but I don't own a 3" and 4" hole saw. I went to the hardware store to get them (one of the many brakes I took) and discovered the cup for the 4" saw was $20, the cup for the 3" saw was $15, and the arbor for them was $8. That is over $40 for some friggin hole saws. I decided to check out Harbor Freight on the internet, and sure enough, they have a set that includes hole saws in 1/2" increments from 2 1/2" to 5" for less than $10. As it turned out I also had a flier from my local Harbor Freight, and that set was on sale for $3.96. I decided I would just get up today (Memorial Day) and run on down to Harbor Freight and pickup a set. Well I get there (other side of town from where I am working on the boat) and they are closed. No sign that sayes they will be closed Memorial Day, just locked doors. Oh well, I guess it just was not meant to be. So there I am, the heater is installed, just without the vents.

        When I add the vents, I will extend the writeup.

        BTW, I installed the kick panel, and it is now sturdier than it has ever been!

        Comment

        • ag4ever
          1,000 Post Club Member
          • Feb 2004
          • 1180



          #49
          OK, so now here is the continuation of the installation.

          Step Twenty-Nine: Remove the windshield. The windshield is held on by a series of screws that are hidden by a strip of rubber at the front base of the windshield. You do not have to remove the metal surronuds from the windshield. I thought you had to remove the top piece, then pull the glass to get acces to the lower screws, but alas, that is not the case. After you remove the screws, the windshield just lifts right off. Becarefull, i had a few screws were the head had been sheared off, and the threads were in the aluminum and the fiberglass. This added a little more time to the removal, as i had to drill the screws out of the aluminum.
          Attached Files

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          • ag4ever
            1,000 Post Club Member
            • Feb 2004
            • 1180



            #50
            Step Thirty: Drill hole into fiberglass between dash and windshield. Check to be sure that you won't drill into anything but fiberglass.
            Attached Files

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            • ag4ever
              1,000 Post Club Member
              • Feb 2004
              • 1180



              #51
              Step Thirty-One: Insert defroster (euro vent) into hole drilled into dash untill it "snaps" into place.
              Attached Files

              Comment

              • ag4ever
                1,000 Post Club Member
                • Feb 2004
                • 1180



                #52
                Step Thirty-Two: Drill two holes (in a location of your choice) in the kick panel (or side panel where netting is or where ever you want the hot tubes).
                Attached Files

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                • ag4ever
                  1,000 Post Club Member
                  • Feb 2004
                  • 1180



                  #53
                  Step Thirty-Three: Insert Hot Tubes and secure with sheetmetal screws.
                  Attached Files

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                  • ag4ever
                    1,000 Post Club Member
                    • Feb 2004
                    • 1180



                    #54
                    Step Thirty-Four: Connect one hot tube to heater, one hot tube to Y splitter, one half of the vent tube to the Y splitter and the heater, the other half of the vent tube from the euro vent to the Y splitter.

                    There is only one piece of vent hose supplied for the euro vent. This means that it has to be cut into two sections. I made a shorter section for the Y to euro vent so that the Y would barely rest on the heater.
                    Attached Files

                    Comment

                    • ag4ever
                      1,000 Post Club Member
                      • Feb 2004
                      • 1180



                      #55
                      Step Thirty-Five: Re-install kick panel and windshield.

                      Enjoy your new heater.

                      Comment

                      • pdxCC
                        • Aug 2009
                        • 143

                        • Portland, Oregon

                        • Current -> 01' Air Nautique Previous - 93' Ski Nautique

                        #56
                        SNCB Heater Install

                        This is a great thread. Does anyone have a shot of their heater core instalaltion under the bow of their SNCB or 196 that they can post?
                        ____________________________________________
                        Current Boat --> 01' Air Nautique (April 12' to current!)
                        Previous Boat - 93\' Ski Nautique Closed Bow ( Sept' 09 to March 12')

                        Comment

                        • swc5150
                          1,000 Post Club Member
                          • May 2008
                          • 2240

                          • Eau Claire, WI

                          • MasterCraft Prostar

                          #57
                          Originally posted by pdxCC View Post
                          This is a great thread. Does anyone have a shot of their heater core instalaltion under the bow of their SNCB or 196 that they can post?
                          I just installed one in my '07 196. I'll take some pics for you, then try to figure out how to post them (I could email them?). The most difficult part of the install is running the hoses back to the engine. Wear leather gloves or subject yourself to numerous fiberglass cuts and slivers! There's a shelf on the driver's side under bow that makes mounting a breeze. Get the "Y" connector for the raw water intake, which helps the heater blow hot air while at idle.
                          '08 196LE (previous)
                          '07 196LE (previous)
                          2 - '06 196SE's (previous)

                          Comment

                          • pdxCC
                            • Aug 2009
                            • 143

                            • Portland, Oregon

                            • Current -> 01' Air Nautique Previous - 93' Ski Nautique

                            #58
                            Heater Help

                            Thanks! I am prepared for the battle and have everything ready to go with my pull wires already in-place. I may swap over to a wire snake to try and ease the pull.

                            Currently I'm planning to use the y-pipe and take the supply feed off the lower end of the block. If that doesn't give me the heat I need I'll move it upto the manifold for the conenction.

                            Cheers~
                            ____________________________________________
                            Current Boat --> 01' Air Nautique (April 12' to current!)
                            Previous Boat - 93\' Ski Nautique Closed Bow ( Sept' 09 to March 12')

                            Comment

                            • jimmylee1000
                              • May 2010
                              • 20


                              • 1993 Ski Nautique

                              #59
                              Pics of heater core install

                              I'd love to see those pics. Can you email to me? Gonna do mine this weekend.

                              Comment

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