made a rear seat frame for a 93 ski nautique

[93nautique0710]

I think i did good looks like wood shop paid off in school

[TRBenj]

RE: made a rear seat frame for a 93 ski nautique

Looks terrific! If you were to make a set of downloadable plans, Im sure it would help others out as well.

Are you planning to coat the frame in CPES/resin before installing? I would!

[93nautique0710]

its pressure treated 3/4 and i am still going to fiberglass over it it will be alot more better than the original but little more heavier but being a wakeboarder thats a good thing and i was thinking about making plans when i made mine a very nice person let me use his seat as a pattern if i reskined his and i used masking tape and painters paper to make the patteren but i will make a set of patterns to put on here that someone can use cause might not be so lucky to borrow a $3500 seat

[WakeSlayer]

You are going to have a tough time getting the resin to properly adhere to treated ply. Ideally, you want to use exterior grade ply, CPES, and epoxy resin.
Really nice woodwork.

[93nautique0710]

im pretty good at fiberglassing i know some tricks ill let it dry for a couple weeks and it dont have to stick that good just to seal it from the weather and make it look good i got plenty of screws in it it pretty solid but i was thinking of that though but thinkin the pressure treated would last little longer i dont really like wood in a boat the only thing good about wood in water is that it floats

[WakeSlayer]

I am sure it will be fine. Just saying is all. The chemicals in treated lumber don't let the proper bond form with the resin. Structurally it looks great!!!

[93nautique0710]

I am sure it will be fine. Just saying is all. The chemicals in treated lumber don't let the proper bond form with the resin. Structurally it looks great!!!

yeah im really proud of it and i will make some patterns for others to use it sucks when u cant buy parts for your older nautiques i know u were just saying that good for someone that dont know about the pressure treated and fiberglass not sticking but as long as it drys and you dont need it for a structure purpose its ok but what do u think was it a good idea for useing the pressure treated do you think it wood last longer than the exterior plywood and what is the cpes stuff yal talking about

[93nautique0710]

i think the plans i make wouldnt be downloadable i well make a pattern that u could trace out it would be easier if someone needs them ill just ship a set out

[WakeSlayer]

Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer. Jamestown Distributors sells it. It seeps deep into the wood to seal it off from any moisture. My 67's stringers will be the frist time I have used it. Many guys doing stringer repairs swear by it. I wish I would have used it no the Mustang, but it is all a learning experience for me. I use West Systems epoxy 105/205 previously for sealing and then to apply the glass with. It is great stuff.
I think what you are doing will last fine, let it dry for a long time, and keep it straight while you are doing so. Slather the daylights out of it with epoxy before you start doing the glass. The benefit of exterior grade ply is that it will soak in better and bond better with the eopxy and glass. On a side note, there is no reason to use marine grade ply, it is the same as exterior with respect to the glues in it and has barely any more voids. And considerably cheaper.

[CradGen2]

looks great, but I have a questions. Once you Epoxy/Resin will it be higher then the fiberglass compared to the origninal? Just asking, but don'tknow.

[93nautique0710]

Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer. Jamestown Distributors sells it. It seeps deep into the wood to seal it off from any moisture. My 67's stringers will be the frist time I have used it. Many guys doing stringer repairs swear by it. I wish I would have used it no the Mustang, but it is all a learning experience for me. I use West Systems epoxy 105/205 previously for sealing and then to apply the glass with. It is great stuff.
I think what you are doing will last fine, let it dry for a long time, and keep it straight while you are doing so. Slather the daylights out of it with epoxy before you start doing the glass. The benefit of exterior grade ply is that it will soak in better and bond better with the eopxy and glass. On a side note, there is no reason to use marine grade ply, it is the same as exterior with respect to the glues in it and has barely any more voids. And considerably cheaper.

dang now i wish i would have just got the exterior ply instead of the wavy pressure treated stuff my dad always told me to use the pressure treated dont feel like remaking it though

[93nautique0710]

looks great, but I have a questions. Once you Epoxy/Resin will it be higher then the fiberglass compared to the origninal? Just asking, but don'tknow.

the original sets little lower than the hull and i left a 1/4 inch or so in between and im only going to put a layer on maybe two where it aint going to matter and i havent got that far yet but will post picks when done

[81nautique]

93, good job on the framework. Ideally regular exterior ply would have been a better choice but you can still use the CPES on the pressure treated because it gets absorbed deep into the wood where your standard epoxy is going to just coat it. The CPES is amazing stuff, get yourself the smallest kit they sell and apply 2 coats,it goes a long way. Then you can glass it with regular epoxy for strength in the corners if you want to but it will be sealed from the water forever.

[93nautique0710]

93, good job on the framework. Ideally regular exterior ply would have been a better choice but you can still use the CPES on the pressure treated because it gets absorbed deep into the wood where your standard epoxy is going to just coat it. The CPES is amazing stuff, get yourself the smallest kit they sell and apply 2 coats,it goes a long way. Then you can glass it with regular epoxy for strength in the corners if you want to but it will be sealed from the water forever.

i think it will be fine as long as it dont warp and i will use the cpes stuff thanks to the advise it will look good when done im going to do 1 layer of mat in 1 layer of cloth to make it smooth and put a black color agent in the resin its going to look better than the original

[bobchris]

CPES will not soak in to pressure treated wood unless you let it weather for a couple years. big mistake using it in the first place, can't fibergalss to it, can't seal it with CPES, paid twice as much for it not a very good choice of materials IMHO.

Standard plywood and CPES from the rot doctor is the only way to go when dealing with decking or seating structures..... now there is better stuff to use but it comes at a premium too so you have to plan on keeping the boat for very long times as in forever.