Replaced leaky 2003 V-drive oil pan gasket this weekend

[thedude]

For those with the older V-drive boats using the Walter's V-drive, you may have had the same problem that I've had: A leaky oil pan gasket. If you are scared to do this job yourself, don't be, it was pretty easy with a bit of patience.

You'll need:

-9/16" small open end wrench
-small 1/4" drive rachet with 9/16" 6-sided socket
-3/4" open end wrench
-sheet of gasket material (not sure what I used here, my dad got some scrap pieces from his work, says they are $1200/yard and used in high temp industrial applications, good to 600F). Other gasket material could be found at any auto parts store, or online. The actual gasket is only about 8" long by 3.5" wide, so you don't need much.
-razor to cut gasket material out

There are (4) 9/16" bolts which hold the oil pan on. The two in the rear were the hardest to get out, but just be patient, if you have long arms it shouldn't be a problem. Then remove the 9/16" fitting hose leading to the oil dipstick. Lastly, remove the 3/4" hose fitting that leads to the top part of the V-drive unit. The idea here is to remove the oil pan, with these two hoses attached to it. I found this to be the easiest method. Once these steps are complete, you can drop the oil pan down slightly, and remove the oil from the inside. Try to get as much oil out first as you can, or your bilge will turn into an oily mess. Now you should be able to remove the oil pan. It comes out easily between the V-drive unit and gas tank. Clean the wire screen in the oil pan. Use your old gasket as a template and cut out a new one from the material of your choice.

Then reverse the steps above for installation, pretty easy, took about 2 hours start to finish. Be sure to refill with 1 quart of SAE-30 oil.

Hope this helps. It will be nice to not have to add 1/4 quart of oil to the unit every 20 hours of use!

-Matt

[bj25430]

2006 Walter V drive oil pan replacement_ Leaky gasket!

2006 Nautique 211 crossover edition, walter V drive oil pan gasket replacement. thanks for the tips in changing out the gasket. I took the project on after reading your directions on doing it. I snapped a few pics. It was no problem to do. Took the floor out of the boat to expose the fuel tank, and it gave me plenty of room to reach bolts. Got a mirror and layed in on the floor of boat under the drive and was able to visually see what i was doing and then inspect the gear in there a little bit. Worked out great. Picked up some Rubber-fiber gasket at autozone and so far no leaks. I was leaking about 1/2 qt in 6 months. fiqured no better time to change it than now. Glad i did. Replaced the lock washers, which were 3/8. 9/16 open end wrench and 4 bolts later i was in business. Just take your time cutting the new gasket, and it will be golden.

[kjsway]

Walter V-Drive Oil Pan Gasket Replacement

"The Dude" and bj25430 - You both posted great threads on replacing the Walter V drive oil plan gasket. I have a 2006 SV211 that was leak free until the beginning of this season. First time out the red light was flickering above 1200 RPM. I didn't want to chance any damage and came immediately back to the dock. Once back at my house I came across this thread and got to work. Here is my adds to the previous two post on the topic:
1. I took the floor off and put an old plastic deli tray under the pump. You will need this or something like it to capture any oil as well as the pump. See attached image.
2. Take off the hoses as described in previous post - definitely the easy way to go. The four nuts were relatively easy to get. NOTE: One of my nuts was loose...which may explain the leak. You may want to try tightening all nuts first if you want to put off the gasket replacement.
3. Once I had the unit off (see second picture) the old/original gasket came off with no scraping.
4. Was not sure on gasket thickness but took it to NAPA and they estimated it at 1/16". NAPA part # 3187 will give you plenty of gasket material to work with if you screw up the first attempt. I also purchased at NAPA Permatex Ultra-Black to coat the new gasket when installing.
5. Take your sweet time tracing and cutting the new gasket using your old one as a template.
6. NOTE: After I coated the new gasket with permatex I attached to the pump unit and attempted to install both as a team. Big mistake. The gasket constantly wanted to move around. On "take two", I attached the gasket to the 4 bolts and pushed up against the Vdrive unit. I then installed the pump oil pan, attached all 4 nuts and Perfection!
7. Could not find any torque specs on nuts but just went tight with out over cranking.
8. Add quart of oil, attach "fake a lake", start engine and put in gear. Check for leaks. Should be dry as a bone.
In terms of time, I had; 45 mins to take off floor and remove vdrive oil pan, 30 mins to trace gasket and cut, 30 mins to install gasket, oil pan and 4 bolts, 30 mins to add fluid and run unit, test for leaks, and 30 mins to re-install floor and clean up. Round it up to 3 hours and that assumes you have your materials ready to go.

[EchoLodge]

Thanks for the instructions. I will be attempting this soon. Was able to purchase a gasket but may go with the NAPA material instead. Here is a pdf of the gasket that I traced. If you print to use make sure the measurements are right. Oblivious best to use the original off of your boat but if your boat is 100's of miles away like mine it may come in handy.

[EchoLodge]

All four of my bolts were loose. I decided to try tightening them. I put 8 hours on my boat over turkey week and no oil loss so far.

[Beach-TJ]

Just replaced my V-drive oil pan gasket, wanted to say thanks and that this post is still helping people.

As noted, it's a simple fix, took me 2 hrs from start to fill.

The short oil hose was so stiff that I had to line up the fitting as I put the oil pan back on in order to get it started. Just took a couple of tries to line everything up.

I purchased a gasket from Nautiqe Parts here. Appears to be the OEM gasket, which lasted for 12 seasons on my boat, so figured I would go with another one.

I think that part of my winterizing from now on will be making sure the oil pan nuts are snug, as it appears they were all just loose enough to allow the leaking.

On my boat it appears that PCM sprayed the V-drive with some sort of black plastic coating after assembling everything. Corrosion protection I'm guessing. I had to remove it from all the nuts and oil hose fittings before the wrench would fit. It was that thick. The wrench sizes mentioned above were correct. Just took gentle pressure pushing the wrench on to remove the coating. You can see it on the oil line fitting in this pic. Turns out all the oil fitting are brass.

[Warrior48188]

Great post. I just replaced the V drive oil pan gasket today using the instructions mentioned above. I used the OEM gasket from Nautiqueparts.com. I lubed the gasket with oil on both sides. Did I mess up? Should I have put the gasket on dry?