Anyone Have Trouble With Helm Control Ballast Valves?

[OldFart]

'Boy, that's a pretty broad statement. So "everytime" am improvement occurs (ie. graphics, tower, pcm,...) it is an admission of guilt? Not saying i disagree, just question the thought pattern.

[gotwake]

I too am worried, and looking already to upgrade. 30 hrs on my boat and one is sticking already. Please let us know what you find-

[OldFart]

RUMOR! RUMOR! RUMOR! some type of update came out of HQ. CC is testing the "black valves" from (i think) T-H Marine. Think someone's been reading PN. Skinautique, u behind this?

[OldFart]

if this issue ever gets resolved, think of all the room PN will have for posts. It's like they ought to contribute some $$ to Cc to resolve it

[FatBoy]

'Boy, that's a pretty broad statement. So "everytime" am improvement occurs (ie. graphics, tower, pcm,...) it is an admission of guilt? Not saying i disagree, just question the thought pattern.

Of course not....But they said the helm controll valves would work, AND THEY DON'T. So they should fix them. You know, FIVE YEAR NO BULLS....T GARANTEE......

[ag4ever]

The difference between the graphics and the valves is simple. When a cosmetic change is made, there is no corrective measure made to the boat to make it perform like it SHOULD. When a part DOES NOT function as it was advertised or designed or told it would opperate, and then there is a change in a future model that corrects it, then YES there should be some responsability to correct the failed part.

[FatBoy]

YEA, WHAT HE SAID.....

[rustans]

Hey Jeff,

This morning I submitted an inquiry on the price for the Asco EF8210G095 valves through the Asco website (the EF being the explosion proof solenoid housing version). I received a reply that the list price is $196, and the sales rep sent me a list of distributors here in Texas to contact. I called the distributor in Austin (Rawson and Co), who didn't have any in stock, but have ordered them for me for $166.60 a piece. It's a bit pricey but oh well.

Jeff could you write up or email me installation instructions and pictures if you have any? Would be a big help.

Regards,

Rustan

[mike-d]

valves

for that price, you should of just bought the jabsco ballast pumps, three of them would of been better than ordering three of these valves, you could fill and empty out of the same inlet, etc. etc. etc. let us know when you get the valves, pictures etc set up.


mike

[Mikeski]

RE: valves

I think the easiest solution is to do like mike-d and hsmunoz have done and use the black T-H Marine RDV-2-DP direct replacement valves. Henry said it only took him 90 minutes to do the change and everything works. One of his new T-H valves had some excess flashing that he had to cut out with an exacto knife, another was a bit sticky so he cleaned and lubed all of them prior to installation. The arm also needs to be flipped the other way so their operation matches the open/closed labeling.

Since mine are now leaking lots of water I just ordered the new valves. My boat is new but the valve changeout is less work/less time then just getting my boat to my dealer so I am just going to do it myself.

Here is a link to the valves I ordered (about $60 including shipping):
LINK

Here is a link with a picture of the valves:
LINK

[Mikeski]

RE: valves

Here is a good replacement detail that hsmunoz sent me:

1. The T-H VALVES operate out of the package BACKWARDS of the stock
valves. Meaning when the cockpit actuator is in the "closed" position
the cable is extended, and the position of the T-H valve would be
"OPEN". a quick fix is to unscrew the actuation lever on the valve,
which is keyed by a square notch, and move it 90 degrees clockwise ,
or counter clockwise. Then replace the screw and make sure that when
the actuation arm is "fully extended" the vavle is closed.

2. The next thing is that the actuation arm has a small hole to feed
the cable into, this hole is too small and you will have to drill it
out not much I used 1/16 bit.

3. One of my valves has exessive flashing, inside , so I took it apart
and used an exacto blade to clean it up, in fact I did all three just
to make sure things were sano. Also, you will need to remove the screw
that is used to hold down the cable, and trim the plastic standoff
flush.

4. One valve was sticky, so I took it apart and lubed it with silicone
grease. Make sure all the valves upen and close easily.

5. Center ballast tank is a a breeze, under the ski locker, there is a
panel that is removed with two 7/16 bolts and 3 philips screws, remove
the old valve and replace with new, this is the confidence builder, 15
minutes tops!.

6, OK now for the port and starboard. I got to both from on top, no
need to pull up the floor. First the port, disconnect from the
thru-hull side, then pull it up for better access. Disconnect the
other side, then work the cable free, remove and replace. Same with
starboard side, only this one requires patience and some contorting.
What I did, was set the cockpit actuator to "OPEN" (Cable fully
retracted) , manually set the valve to full open (closed has alot more
slop to play with , but I wanted fully open to be perfect) then I
attached the metal part of the cable, and tighted it in place. Then
checked for proper cable travel.


7. Lastly DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN the steel hold down screw that tightens
the metal pinch clamp on the cable. I found out that this was a cause
of sticking cables. It needs to hold the cable in place , that's all.

If everything lines up, the plastic end of the cable (before the small
metal wire comes out) should be just before the first screw on the
valve.

and your done! in my opinion this is an absolute no brainer, if your
valves are leaking, which is inevidable (sp).

...


a quick side note,

I kept playing with the starboard valve because it was sticky , and it
turned out that the cables were kinked alittle due to the tie wraps
that the factory put on. These ty wraps, anchored the cables to the
thruhull's.I cut them off. what I did was pull off the 3/4 hoses that
connect to the valves, then snake the valve out, through the small
plastic hatch above the drain plug. Now you have the old valve (or the
new one) in your hands sitting in the boat. Then you can connect it up
, play with it, to make sure that it functions properly,and then snake
it back into the bilge. Then slip on the hoses , tighten , and done.
This is easier that my original "come in from above route)

[Mikeski]

RE: valves

Now that a good cheap solution is found, correct craft could consider a silent recall on these. In bulk purchase including shipping and labor it would only cost them about $100 per boat. Judging by all the activity on this thread it might be $100 well spent to keep their customers happy.

Just my $0.02

[OldFart]

RE: valves

ag4ever & fatboy, well said!

[bbc3]

TH Marine is the way to go. I did not switch the arm on them before the install, but the labeling is the least of my worries compared to the function...besides, I never actually crawl under the dash to look at what word the switch is pointing to. They work perfectly without a drop getting past them. When they are open they fill just as fast as the old ones (this is all in getting the cable anchored correctly so when the switch is open, the hole is completely open). Also, you can control how "sticky" the switches feel by how tightly you anchor the cable to the valve. Took me about 2 hrs, start to finish and clean up. Well worth your time.

If you don't want to wait for CC to cough up the cash, buy these valves and do it yourself...trust me you won't regret it.

[FatBoy]

I am not doing it myself. It's a matter of principle, they said they were supposed to work and by goodness they are going to make them work or I am going to pester the S#@t out of them till they do. Five year no bulls#@t guarantee.