any more pics of the wave both port and starboard with the ballast full and even or slightly listed? Following this with big hopes. I like this design better than a fakegate. It's cleaner but more difficult to do for sure.
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Originally posted by slidin_outany more pics of the wave both port and starboard with the ballast full and even or slightly listed? Following this with big hopes. I like this design better than a fakegate. It's cleaner but more difficult to do for sure.
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Great job Sanj ! The wave does look really nice! 2 questions... What was your ballast set up? And how was the push of the wave? Please post some video of someone riding the wave, I think you did an AMAZING job!2009 Super Air Nautique 210 TE
2006 Super Air Nautique 210 TE
1989 Sport Nautique
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Originally posted by scottgalanteGreat job Sanj ! The wave does look really nice! 2 questions... What was your ballast set up? And how was the push of the wave? Please post some video of someone riding the wave, I think you did an AMAZING job!
Stock belly tank full
About 300 behind driver in a sac
About 300 sac in the front starboard
Grandparents sitting starboard rear bench
This is about 800 less than I used to use, the wake is flatter in front with less push because of 400 front. If I reduced it to 200 it would be steeper and more push, with 400 to 600 then it would longer and gentler with less push.
Also, the less plate extension, the steeper the curl is.
Biggest change so absolutely clean face. Hope to get more pics today but with elderly and toddler boat crew its challenging.
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I am calling this system the GLASSFACE
Video:
https://goo.gl/photos/FLCEuCkERaNQ292a6
Attached is the template for the basic "glassface" plate in 3 counterclockwise pieces, I will post all CAD files, parts lists and suppliers on Github when I have a chance. The weird thing is that the hull is not perfectly symmetrical left/right and on the starboard side there is a metal plate inside the fiberglass for some reason so the swim deck mounts are not symmetrical by at least 1.5-2.5 inches.
The biggest difference between this system and the NSS is the angle of extension (20 something degrees versus 30 something). Older 210's are narrower and have lower gunwhales so they can't be sunk as low or hold as much under deck ballast. The upside is that the chined rear lets the back end drop deeper if it's ballasted back heavy.
The diagonal plate extension digs into the water in the lower corner. The upper edge of the plate would be out of the water if it was a horizontal only extension or if the angle was less.
The net impact is that the rooster tail is deflected away from the wake face making it glassy. The boat acts like it's in a slight turn but tracks straight.
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Guess what, the 2016 G23 and G25 features a redesigned tapered hull somewhat like the vintage 210 to flow water upward....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=06GQ...outu.be&t=1m2s
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Great work. I would love to have your CAD files and Bill of Material. I have 250K sq. feet of sheetmetal and machining factory and would be willing to cut sets for members that are interested in this design and I will do it at cost. The design looks like I could just put them on my WaterJets to cut them.
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Originally posted by SJ30 View PostGreat work. I would love to have your CAD files and Bill of Material. I have 250K sq. feet of sheetmetal and machining factory and would be willing to cut sets for members that are interested in this design and I will do it at cost. The design looks like I could just put them on my WaterJets to cut them.
yup, it's weld free and there's only 2 bends. Thanks for the offer. I will be in touch when I write it up.
To keep this site free of any possible intellectual property issues, the files will be elsewhere and I would suggest that availability of parts be done elsewhere.
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Originally posted by Zpenter View PostKeep it up guys I have a 210 2003 this look great!
RE: Glassface plans open source release
Thanks for the encouragement guys, I've spent a few weekends covered in fiberglas dust, marine adhesive and metal filings while everybody around me was partying in the water so I am thrilled that it's working, totally worth it.
I am hoping a community builds around this to perfect it and make it available to the thousands of vintage boat owners at no or low cost. I will be writing up the build details and some recommended changes to make it safer. I won't release it until I have done everything I can to make it clear how careful you have to be in installing it. If it's installed crooked and the actuator jams you can rip out a chunk of transom and not know about it until it's too late. Safety is always first. We all love our boats, families and pets (not necessarily in that order) and would not want to see anything bad happen to them!
Cheers,
Sanj
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