2002 210 SAN TE Surf trim plate

[simplysanj]

Some comparisons with and without glassface and breakdown - to get a similar effect would require an unsafe amount of ballast and major listing. Note the horizon in the first picture to get an idea of list.

[alexbailey228]

I really want this for my 210!!! How much are you charging for the system?

[simplysanj]

I really want this for my 210!!! How much are you charging for the system?

I am not selling this, I will be giving the design away. It will be open source so you can cut the plates yourself at a machine shop, order the fasteners and actuators from Ebay/Amazon and get up and running cheap ($1200 or less). SJ30 has volunteered to provide at-cost machining for members here.

I am hoping a community forms around this project to help others get started with this type of system and improve on it.

[slidin_out]

Actuators and switch are the most expensive part of this. The rest is just small parts and time.

[gome123]

SimplySanj... Great work mate!! I like your postings as they show you have some kind of engineering background (if not you have some mad technical skillz). I have an idea that i will be working on this winter with my SWE. If it fails, then looks like I will be fabricating a "GlassFace" for my 210.

[slidin_out]

SimplySanj... Great work mate!! I like your postings as they show you have some kind of engineering background (if not you have some mad technical skillz). I have an idea that i will be working on this winter with my SWE. If it fails, then looks like I will be fabricating a "GlassFace" for my 210.

Agree, going to knock off your SWE tonight or this weekend and see if I can get it to work well enough for me. If so I'll probably just use since the cost is so minimal. If not I'll probably be looking at a Glassface build this winter.

[simplysanj]

I will be posting the instructions and CAD files on Instuctables but in the meantime if anybody wants details just PM me.

[wakejunky]

Sanj,

You were not kidding on the hull not being symmetrical. I see that my swim platform mount is further to the starboard side by about an inch, so, the plate will be really close to the mount on that side and then about an inch on the port side. It's quite interesting to see that on your pics that your swim platform mounts are more to the port side. I'm seeing even a little bit of difference in shape on the keel/hull corner between starboard and port sides, it may have to do with prop rotation and hull lift.

[ScooterMcgavin]

Sanj do you have any updates on your system? How has everything been working? Are you getting it dialed in? Would like to see some opiated videos of your wave and someone riding it!

[simplysanj]

Sanj,

You were not kidding on the hull not being symmetrical. I see that my swim platform mount is further to the starboard side by about an inch, so, the plate will be really close to the mount on that side and then about an inch on the port side. It's quite interesting to see that on your pics that your swim platform mounts are more to the port side. I'm seeing even a little bit of difference in shape on the keel/hull corner between starboard and port sides, it may have to do with prop rotation and hull lift.

.

I think it might be some kind of steel bracket embedded inside the fiberglass that requires the swim platform brackets to be asymmetrical. As for the hull shape, I think it's an old school hand shaped plug that they made the mold from so there's variance of about 7mm.
I guess that was before they had six axis cnc machines.

Sent from my XT1095 using Tapatalk

[simplysanj]

Sanj do you have any updates on your system? How has everything been working? Are you getting it dialed in? Would like to see some opiated videos of your wave and someone riding it!

I used it for the last month of our unreasonably short summer and was very happy. The starboard goofy wake was already good when slammed with ballast and listed and now the port is the same. All in all a great cleanup but listing is still required and the deflection is only about 2 inches whereas the plywood, cutting board and skate ramp systems deflect about 6 inches so they should have a more dramatic effect.

Long and short of it is if you are mechanically inclined, have access to basic tools and can afford it, its awesome and anybody can operate it.

If you don't then go for the skategate for 25 bucks.

Sent from my XT1095 using Tapatalk

[simplysanj]

FYI - both the new 1016 G23 and G25 feature a 2 axis tapered transom and the NSS now extends horizontally where it used to be diagonally. Interesting change, the guys at my dealership says it makes a major difference.

[rcazwillis]

Sanj,
Did you ever post the plans? Interested to see the dimensions. Might be able to cut it on my mill.

Sent from my SM-G900V using PLANETNAUTIQUE mobile app

[simplysanj]

Sanj,
Did you ever post the plans? Interested to see the dimensions. Might be able to cut it on my mill.

Sent from my SM-G900V using PLANETNAUTIQUE mobile app

Sorry for the delayed responses, I have been travelling so I haven't had much time this winter. To answer some PM'ed questions that I haven't got around to
:

1) It worked out great, still needed a lot weight and some listing to get a clean big face but it was much better than before.
2) You can probably get the same effect with a velcro'd plastic skate ramp or wedge with a lot less pain, drilling, $$$ etc.
3) I don't think aluminum would work because of corrosion and bending. Maybe .25" anodized, much simpler to use 3mm stainless
4) It can be redesigned for 1 or 2 plates and not 3 like the OEM system.
5) I won't be selling kits or supporting this project. It's strictly a science project for my amusement and I don't have much time to answer questions for a while.
6) Here are the files below, print them out and cut templates in cardboard and understand them inside out before you cut steel. The drawing was designed in emachineshop.com free CAD

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-X...ew?usp=sharing

Good luck!