Tweet
The steering on my 1998 Ski Nautique was very stiff, so I decided to put in a new steering cable today. I took some pictures so that I could outline the process for others who may be interested.
I ordered Part Number 90590 from NautiqueParts. This is the steering cable for most Nautiques from 1998 to present.
1. Remove the following interior parts from the boat.
2. Disconnect cable from the sleeve mounted to the hull. Just put a wrench on the large silver fitting and turn until it comes free. Leave the device holding the sleeve alone. Do not remove the four bolts on that piece.
3. Disconnect the cable from the rudder tiller arm. On the Ski Nautique, the connection point is under the gas tank, but you can reach it without pulling the tank. It is held on by a nut and bolt. The nut is 1/2". You might need to hold the bolt in order to remove the nut. Remove the nut, washer and bolt, and that end of the cable will be free.
4. Now move up to the helm. On the underside of the steering wheel, you'll see the steering rack held on by four bolts.
5. Remove those bolts using a 7/16" socket.
6. At this point, you should go back to the aft end of the cable and attach a small rope to the end. This will be useful in routing the new cable once the original is removed. Please note that in this picture you'll see that I removed the tube from the mounting bracket. This is not necessary and should be skipped. This picture is just being used to show the rope attachment.
7. You're now ready to remove the original cable. Check for any zip-ties installed by the factory. Most Ski Nautiques have three - one behind the engine, one in front of the engine, and one at the helm. Cut those zip-ties and dispose of them. From the helm end, carefully pull the cable, allowing the rope to feed through behind the old cable. Pay attention to the routing of the cable under the helm. It usually wraps around the front side of the ventilation hose, and can easily tear this hose. You can remove that hose, or you can just be careful so that you don't tear it. Once most of the cable is out, you'll need to get under the helm to help feed the large metal connecting point out of the hole in the floor. Since the end is not flexible, it is sometimes quite difficult to get out. Be patient and it will come out. Don't force it or you will risk damaging other hoses, cables and wires going through that hole.
While you're down there, take a second to laugh at Correct Craft's factory installation of the radio antenna -- Yes, it is behind the driver's kick panel mounted to the floor!
8. At this point, you should be left with a rope coming out of the hole in the floor. Disconnect that rope from the original cable and connect it to the aft end of the new cable. Feed the new cable around the ventilation hose and down into the hull through the opening in the floor. Have a helper feed it through the hole as you carefully pull the rope. When the end of the cable is past the engine, remove the rope and pull the cable by hand and feed it through the tube in front of the gas tank. You should be left with the new rack hanging under the steering wheel at this point.
9. Mount the new rack using the original bolts and the 7/16" socket.
10. At the stern, slide the cable through the tube if it is not already, and tighten it down.
11. Remove the rubber bushing from the old cable and install it on the new cable at the point where the cable slides in and out. Next, Connect the new cable to the rudder tiller arm using the 1/2" nut and bolt. At that point, you're about finished.
12. Turn the steering wheel with one finger and enjoy true happiness. Check for full sweep of the rudder in both directions.
13. Reinstall all interior panels that were removed.
14. On your next trip to the water, bring along a 1/2" deep socket and ratchet. Drive the boat in a straight path, and stop. Remove the center cap in the steering wheel exposing the 1/2" nut. Remove the nut, pull off the steering wheel, and reposition it on the splines so that it is centered. Tighten the nut, and reinstall the center cap.
That's it! You're finished.
I ordered Part Number 90590 from NautiqueParts. This is the steering cable for most Nautiques from 1998 to present.
1. Remove the following interior parts from the boat.
- Rear Seat Base
- Rear Seat Back
- Rear Floor Section
- Engine cover (completely remove)
- Driver's Kick Panel
- Panel to the Left of Driver's Feet (optional)
2. Disconnect cable from the sleeve mounted to the hull. Just put a wrench on the large silver fitting and turn until it comes free. Leave the device holding the sleeve alone. Do not remove the four bolts on that piece.
3. Disconnect the cable from the rudder tiller arm. On the Ski Nautique, the connection point is under the gas tank, but you can reach it without pulling the tank. It is held on by a nut and bolt. The nut is 1/2". You might need to hold the bolt in order to remove the nut. Remove the nut, washer and bolt, and that end of the cable will be free.
4. Now move up to the helm. On the underside of the steering wheel, you'll see the steering rack held on by four bolts.
5. Remove those bolts using a 7/16" socket.
6. At this point, you should go back to the aft end of the cable and attach a small rope to the end. This will be useful in routing the new cable once the original is removed. Please note that in this picture you'll see that I removed the tube from the mounting bracket. This is not necessary and should be skipped. This picture is just being used to show the rope attachment.
7. You're now ready to remove the original cable. Check for any zip-ties installed by the factory. Most Ski Nautiques have three - one behind the engine, one in front of the engine, and one at the helm. Cut those zip-ties and dispose of them. From the helm end, carefully pull the cable, allowing the rope to feed through behind the old cable. Pay attention to the routing of the cable under the helm. It usually wraps around the front side of the ventilation hose, and can easily tear this hose. You can remove that hose, or you can just be careful so that you don't tear it. Once most of the cable is out, you'll need to get under the helm to help feed the large metal connecting point out of the hole in the floor. Since the end is not flexible, it is sometimes quite difficult to get out. Be patient and it will come out. Don't force it or you will risk damaging other hoses, cables and wires going through that hole.
While you're down there, take a second to laugh at Correct Craft's factory installation of the radio antenna -- Yes, it is behind the driver's kick panel mounted to the floor!
8. At this point, you should be left with a rope coming out of the hole in the floor. Disconnect that rope from the original cable and connect it to the aft end of the new cable. Feed the new cable around the ventilation hose and down into the hull through the opening in the floor. Have a helper feed it through the hole as you carefully pull the rope. When the end of the cable is past the engine, remove the rope and pull the cable by hand and feed it through the tube in front of the gas tank. You should be left with the new rack hanging under the steering wheel at this point.
9. Mount the new rack using the original bolts and the 7/16" socket.
10. At the stern, slide the cable through the tube if it is not already, and tighten it down.
11. Remove the rubber bushing from the old cable and install it on the new cable at the point where the cable slides in and out. Next, Connect the new cable to the rudder tiller arm using the 1/2" nut and bolt. At that point, you're about finished.
12. Turn the steering wheel with one finger and enjoy true happiness. Check for full sweep of the rudder in both directions.
13. Reinstall all interior panels that were removed.
14. On your next trip to the water, bring along a 1/2" deep socket and ratchet. Drive the boat in a straight path, and stop. Remove the center cap in the steering wheel exposing the 1/2" nut. Remove the nut, pull off the steering wheel, and reposition it on the splines so that it is centered. Tighten the nut, and reinstall the center cap.
That's it! You're finished.
Comment