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Just finished installing NSS on my 08 . Figured I would do a little write up with some pics.
Parts list
-NSS KIT Retail is 2200 depending on your dealer relationship you may have chance to get that knocked down a bit, but i'll use retail here
-Lenco LED switch with control box $244.00
http://www.easternmarine.com/led-tac...to-retract-123
-Lenco (20ft) Actuator Extension Harness (X 2) $30.00 each
http://www.easternmarine.com/lenco-m...s-20-30133-13d
-Sikaflex Marine Caulk $15.00
GRAND TOTAL $2519.00
There are a lot of holes. So be prepared to turn your boat into swiss cheese. It's pretty straight forward and the install directions are pretty clear. The first thing I recommend is that you leave you transom a little off your bunks. So don't crank your boat all the way on the trailer. This will give you the room to allow the plates to extend and retract while on the trailer. You 're gonna want to do a pre-mock up before you drill because as you can see in these first few pics the swim platform brackets are not equidistant apart on each side of the boat. My starboard side bracket was closer to the edge of the boat by 1/2 inch and almost didn't give me enough room for my starboard plate. My starboard plate barely made it as it butts right up to my bracket.
I used a small pice of duct tape to hold the sims in place on the back of the plates. It was way easier than worrying about them popping loose during the pre fits.
After you get the first plate up and drill all the holes. You fill all holes except the wire hole with the marine caulk. I put the caulk around the wire hole on the plate itself. It was easier than trying to put it on the boat. When you go to put the slide plate on you have 2 separate sections seperated by where the ram goes. After trying to install the slide plate a from the top first, it took a trial and error. I ended up having much better success starting from the bottom plate and then moving to the top plate. I hand tightened everything. I just feel way more comfortable getting feedback from strength than using a drill.
The plates ended up sliding smoothly. I could push it with a pinky and gravity def let the slide easy Til you put the final screws in. They were definitely not a one finger push once all the screws were installed. My starboard plate was bit stiffer to get sliding as well. I think it has to do with the curve of the transom. It seems the curve of the transom puts a little bend on the plates when you lock them down with the screws. So it's not an actual straight mounting surface that allows a 1 finger push. It takes a little force. Not sure if this was just related to my boat or if it was common for all NSS plates so your results may very. I measured at least 5 times before drilling, so they were aligned perfectly. Again I could move the plates before adding the ram but it wasn't like butter and gravity wouldn't take over.
Adding the ram and running the wires was pretty straight forward as well. Piece of cake. I didn't wire up my switch just yet as it didn't arrive yet. Weather was playing havoc on some shipping. I went with the lenco dual LED. Because the older models don't have Linc the only feature you lose is the auto retract feature when you go above a certain speed. However the plates will auto retract if you want every time you turn the key off with this switch.
The swim platform will need to be adjusted. You have to re drill the mounts on the platform because the platform needs to have a larger gap between the transom and the platform due to the thickness of the NSS plates. You have to fill in all the old holes and re drill the platform in place. For me this was the most annoying part. If I had to do it again I would pull the platform first and remove all the screws. Fill all the holes first with the caulk and let that set while you start drilling the plates. This way the caulk cures while you're drilling the plates in.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Parts list
-NSS KIT Retail is 2200 depending on your dealer relationship you may have chance to get that knocked down a bit, but i'll use retail here
-Lenco LED switch with control box $244.00
http://www.easternmarine.com/led-tac...to-retract-123
-Lenco (20ft) Actuator Extension Harness (X 2) $30.00 each
http://www.easternmarine.com/lenco-m...s-20-30133-13d
-Sikaflex Marine Caulk $15.00
GRAND TOTAL $2519.00
There are a lot of holes. So be prepared to turn your boat into swiss cheese. It's pretty straight forward and the install directions are pretty clear. The first thing I recommend is that you leave you transom a little off your bunks. So don't crank your boat all the way on the trailer. This will give you the room to allow the plates to extend and retract while on the trailer. You 're gonna want to do a pre-mock up before you drill because as you can see in these first few pics the swim platform brackets are not equidistant apart on each side of the boat. My starboard side bracket was closer to the edge of the boat by 1/2 inch and almost didn't give me enough room for my starboard plate. My starboard plate barely made it as it butts right up to my bracket.
I used a small pice of duct tape to hold the sims in place on the back of the plates. It was way easier than worrying about them popping loose during the pre fits.
After you get the first plate up and drill all the holes. You fill all holes except the wire hole with the marine caulk. I put the caulk around the wire hole on the plate itself. It was easier than trying to put it on the boat. When you go to put the slide plate on you have 2 separate sections seperated by where the ram goes. After trying to install the slide plate a from the top first, it took a trial and error. I ended up having much better success starting from the bottom plate and then moving to the top plate. I hand tightened everything. I just feel way more comfortable getting feedback from strength than using a drill.
The plates ended up sliding smoothly. I could push it with a pinky and gravity def let the slide easy Til you put the final screws in. They were definitely not a one finger push once all the screws were installed. My starboard plate was bit stiffer to get sliding as well. I think it has to do with the curve of the transom. It seems the curve of the transom puts a little bend on the plates when you lock them down with the screws. So it's not an actual straight mounting surface that allows a 1 finger push. It takes a little force. Not sure if this was just related to my boat or if it was common for all NSS plates so your results may very. I measured at least 5 times before drilling, so they were aligned perfectly. Again I could move the plates before adding the ram but it wasn't like butter and gravity wouldn't take over.
Adding the ram and running the wires was pretty straight forward as well. Piece of cake. I didn't wire up my switch just yet as it didn't arrive yet. Weather was playing havoc on some shipping. I went with the lenco dual LED. Because the older models don't have Linc the only feature you lose is the auto retract feature when you go above a certain speed. However the plates will auto retract if you want every time you turn the key off with this switch.
The swim platform will need to be adjusted. You have to re drill the mounts on the platform because the platform needs to have a larger gap between the transom and the platform due to the thickness of the NSS plates. You have to fill in all the old holes and re drill the platform in place. For me this was the most annoying part. If I had to do it again I would pull the platform first and remove all the screws. Fill all the holes first with the caulk and let that set while you start drilling the plates. This way the caulk cures while you're drilling the plates in.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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