Welcome to PLANETNAUTIQUE! We're glad you're here. In order to participate in our discussions, you must register for a free account. With over 25,000 registered members already, we would love to have you as a member too! Click here to access our Registration Page. Registration is quick and easy, and we keep any information you give us completely confidential. Once registered, you may sign in using the drop-down Login or Sign Up window at the upper right corner of the site.
PLEASE STOP AND READ! The DIY section is for posting DIY articles only! These articles should be about some repair or project that YOU HAVE COMPLETED, and how others can also accomplish whatever you have done. The DIY section is NOT a place to start threads asking HOW to do something. Threads like that must be started in the Maint. / Tech. Discussion section. It is permissible to ask the original poster questions about his or her project in their thread here though.
****, just read in the instructions that the "hole MUST be 2"...... Maybe the pad gets warm and the hole allows for cooling? **** I don't know - 2" it is..
I see you still had to move the platform brackets.
Any thoughts on just ordering the 2013 NSS kit that comes with the covers but you defiantly have to move the platform brackets and maybe modify the location of platform.
They sell a early NSS kit and the factory added one.
Update to the thread , system has been flawless and I really have the boat dialed for surf wakes now. I’ve even messed with the tabs being fully deployed and partially deployed . It does have a noticeable effect on the wave where you set them. I was originally on the fence about whether this upgrade was worth the cost given all the suckgate options . Hands down spending about 60 percent of my time on the water running surf wakes for my daughters (One of which is goofy , and other regular ) I can say without a doubt the ease of setup, swapping sides , and consistency in the wave makes the NSS upgrade worth every penny.
Thanks for this post - very helpful, and I would like to add this to my boat versus the other options. Two questions for you. 1) did the kit come with complete installation instructions, and 2) where did you purchase the kit. I have called a few Nautique dealers; one says they don't make a kit, and the other says it can only be ordered by serial number for a 2011 and newer boat.
Any help is much appreciated.
Mike
'06 SANTE210 - Current Boat
'06 SV211 TE - Old Boat
'04 Ski Nautique 196 - Old Boat
I purchased my kit through my dealer. When NSS was originally launched they were very strict on a hull number attached to an order. Obviously a great way to get people into new boats. Don’t blame them one bit. However they lessened they restrictions couple years later. So I am under the impression that hull I’d to get a kit is old news that no longer applies. The kit came with everything.
There is a jig dealers use to line up the plate to drill the holes. It spaces the plates properly. However it’s not a necessity. You can align the plates with eyeballs and achieve the same results with a helping hand and patience. I know some guys have recently installed it it , so I believe it’s still available. Otherwise there is guy on here Maxx who fabbed aftermarket kits for the 210/220/226/230.
if you need a contact I can put you in touch with my dealer and I am 100% sure they will sell you kit.
Ok all been getting lot of DM’s on this lately. Great to still this post helping a lot of others out there . .
Figured I make this a final one stop thread now adding in my weight configs here instead of over at the separate surf wake thread . That seems to be the most common question I get as well as do I think it’s worth the cash. I’d like to say I have this dialed after all the years of use.
my ballast set up for us on Goofy side
- center tank full
-piggy back off center tank full (300lbs or so)
- 240lbs pop bags stuffed all the way in the bow under the bow cushion
-surf side 1100 full
- depending on how many people in the boat , I may have to empty the port just a touch to get an ever so slight lean on starboard side. 10.5mph, opposite side NSS plate fully deployed , hydro gate lever fully pulled back ( ie wakeboard setting). Having it fully back makes it the steepest with the most push , but if you ride skim or maybe don’t like steep steeper surf wakes you may prefer the hydrogate pushed forward. It mellows out the steepness
Regular side wake
- center tank full
-piggy back off center tank full (300lbs or so)
- 240lbs pop bags stuffed all the way in the bow under the bow cushion
-surf side 1100 full
- this side needs a little more prominent lean I’ve found to accommodate the prop torque battle. 10.5mph, opposite side NSS plate fully deployed , HERES THE BIG DIFFERENCE , the Hydrogate should be fully engaged (ie pushed forward into ski mode). That will really shape the wave on the regular side and elongate pocket the best for that side. Unfortunately if you adjust the hydrogate here it really gives you a washy lip , so you’re kinda stuck with what you get. You can adjust the NSS ans not fully deploy it to take some steepness out but the pocket gets smaller.
hope this helps everyone as one stop shop.
I’ll also throw in this for all the primary wakeboarders and wakesurfers alike.
The new 2571 Prop it’s absolutely amazing if you’re all in on surf and wakeboarding. It blows the stock team prop (1579) away. It’s also noticeably better than the 1617 which was the big dog for a while. The boys over at Acme designed this beast specifically for this boat with its tight diameter. . I am
able to get out the hole with ease running both rear 1100 bags 90%ish full for wakeboarding and the wake is as good as it gets. It’s booty as all heck, the 1617 struggled to plane at 90% on windy days and I would have to dump a little out to more to like 75% full. The 2571 however gets the boat on plane with ease .
One last comment. To finalize the install as a "fail safe ". I moved my bow roller/stop on my trailer back apprx 5-6inches. This now makes the transom of my boat hang off the bunk every so slightly. Now just in case we idle in and forget it noting will be damaged.
My 230 trailer is so position/weight sensitive that being 1.5 inches off the roller provides a noticeable difference on the road. The trailer is definitely light on the ball. I would opt for cutting the bunks shorter instead of repositioning the boat on the trailer.
Unfortunately my Eagle didnt really allow shortening of the rear bunks as the welded mounting point to that bunk only has 1inch of board overhang after the mounting plate. According to the scale the tongue weight was still acceptable.
I believe the actual measurement ended up being 3 7/8i inches
When installing the instruction mention a 1/4 from the edge of the chime or measure in a 1/4from the edge? I have a port side NSS with no jig to install. I do have the instructions.
Tweet
Comment