2003 SAN Raw Water Pump

[jratliff]

So since I recently had a problem where I got in a hurry and didn't pay attention to how my water pump was installed when I swapped my impeller I thought a pic and a walk through might help somebody else in the future.

1. Loosen the two 5/8" bolts holding the water pump bracket. Use a 5/8"open end wrench/ratchet wrench. This will allow you to take the belt off and get it out of the way.
2. Remove the pulley from the front of the water pump, it has 4-1/2" bolts holding it in place, you will need a chain wrench or a very large pair of channel lock pliers to hold on to the pulley while you loosen the 4 bolts.
Once you brake them loose use a 1/2" ratchet wrench to back them the rest of the way out. Don't drop them they will be a pain to recover from under the engine.
3. Remove the 2-1/2" bolts holding the water pump to the bracket, make sure you keep these separate from the 4-bolts for the pulley they are a different thread.
4. Remove the 2-5/8" bolts holding the water pump bracket, and the bracket.
5. Loosen the 2 hose clamps holding the intake and output hoses to the water pump.
6. Remove the water pump from the boat
7. Remove the back plate from the water pump it should have 4-Allen head bolts holding it on.
8. Remove the impeller using two screwdrivers,
be careful not to scar the inside of the water pump with the screwdrivers.
9. Clean the outside edge the pump where the new gasket will be installed, also clean the plate of all residue. A wire wheel on a bench grinder works well for this.
10. Install the new impeller using some soap to make it slide in easier.
11. Next you will need to use some black RTV silicone to seal the cover back in place. You don't need to use very much it will squeeze out. I put a certain small amount all the way around the edge then installed the paper gasket that came with the new impeller, then apply an additional small amount on top of the gasket. Again not a lot... just enough for it to squeeze out when you install the plate.
12. Install the plate with the screws just tight enough to cause the RTV silicone to start to squeeze out. Allow it to sit for about an hour
Then finish tightening it down.
13. Reverse these steps to reinstall the water pump. Install the pump with the screw in the middle facing down. See picture.



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[jratliff]

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[jratliff]

It installs in the boat exactly like this, do not turn it upside down.
Also you will need to remove the hose from the output side of the water strainer and pour water in until it is full to prime your water pump or it will have a hard time getting it started pumping.


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[charlesml3]

So since I recently had a problem where I got in a hurry and didn't pay attention to how my water pump was installed when I swapped my impeller I thought a pic and a walk through might help somebody else in the future.

1. Loosen the two 5/8" bolts holding the water pump bracket. Use a 5/8"open end wrench/ratchet wrench. This will allow you to take the belt off and get it out of the way.
2. Remove the pulley from the front of the water pump, it has 4-1/2" bolts holding it in place, you will need a chain wrench or a very large pair of channel lock pliers to hold on to the pulley while you loosen the 4 bolts.
Once you brake them loose use a 1/2" ratchet wrench to back them the rest of the way out. Don't drop them they will be a pain to recover from under the engine.
3. Remove the 2-1/2" bolts holding the water pump to the bracket, make sure you keep these separate from the 4-bolts for the pulley they are a different thread.
4. Remove the 2-5/8" bolts holding the water pump bracket, and the bracket.
5. Loosen the 2 hose clamps holding the intake and output hoses to the water pump.
6. Remove the water pump from the boat
7. Remove the back plate from the water pump it should have 4-Allen head bolts holding it on.
8. Remove the impeller using two screwdrivers,
be careful not to scar the inside of the water pump with the screwdrivers.
9. Clean the outside edge the pump where the new gasket will be installed, also clean the plate of all residue. A wire wheel on a bench grinder works well for this.
10. Install the new impeller using some soap to make it slide in easier.
11. Next you will need to use some black RTV silicone to seal the cover back in place. You don't need to use very much it will squeeze out. I put a certain small amount all the way around the edge then installed the paper gasket that came with the new impeller, then apply an additional small amount on top of the gasket. Again not a lot... just enough for it to squeeze out when you install the plate.
12. Install the plate with the screws just tight enough to cause the RTV silicone to start to squeeze out. Allow it to sit for about an hour
Then finish tightening it down.
13. Reverse these steps to reinstall the water pump. Install the pump with the screw in the middle facing down. See picture.



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Why did you take the pulley off the front of the pump?

[jratliff]

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[jratliff]

I personally found it to hard
To get to the bolts and I own a chain wrench so it was easy to remove it.


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[charlesml3]

I personally found it to hard
To get to the bolts and I own a chain wrench so it was easy to remove it.


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The pulley has holes in it that are there to allow a socket wrench to pass through to reach the bolts.

[jratliff]

There are not any holes in this pulley, I know the ones on the direct drive boats have holes mine does not. This is not my boat but it looks the same.



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[jratliff]

From what I understand this specific water pump setup was only used on the 2002, and 2003 V-drive boats. Actually that's why I did this how to because all I could find was info on direct drive boats.


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[obd666]

nice job ... i always just take the belt off and take the entire pump and bracket off. two bolts, that's it. once you break them loose with a box head they just hand turn out.

[jratliff]

Thanks obd666 I know I prob made more work out of it than it needs to be, I just wanted to get the info out there so the next guy won't be scratching his head the way I was.


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[obd666]

you're right, our water pumps are a little bit oddball from the others ... well done

[functionoverfashion]

I did this the other day for the first time on my '03 (I've done it lots of times on my old direct drive). One thing I'd add is that if you're removing the pulley, just leave the belt on, in tension, while you break loose the four 1/2" bolts. Between that and just my hand holding the pulley, I was able to get them started them no trouble. Of course if they were really torqued down, it would be much harder. Then I loosened the belt before removing those bolts the rest of the way.

I'd also highly recommend one of those magnetic parts bowls / trays. Working in the cramped space back there it would be nice to have a safe place to put bolts and tools where they won't roll or fall into the bilge, or worse, under the ballast tank (if you still have hard tanks like I do).