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Im reviving this old thread. Im glad to see there is a solution, but Id like to clarify there is two options to bypass the run-dry in the 2006;
1) Perform the jumper method as outlined in the PDF document requiring the connectors and wiring
2) Cut the two wires going to the sending unit in the rear lockers and tie them together.
I pulled my hard tanks and am having a problem with starboard pump not emptying, but will blink.
Yes sir you are correct. The easiest and most returnable to stock option, do each one. Cut the plug off long enough away from the connector that you could reattach. Slide some shrink wrap over the wires, use a shrinkable connector and attach the wires together. The gauges will read full, but they empty and fill regardless. I just fill till they run out the overflow . With my ballast I upgraded to two 750 bags in each corner with 150 pounds of lead. That’s all I could get under the 226’s walkway. 650 in the locker and 500 under the bow. My keypad has the timer built in, takes two cycles to get it completely full. I use a couple extra fatsacs if it’s just me and the wife. The
I agree that cutting the wires and tying them together is perhaps the easiest solution. You don't need any special connectors or contacts. However, you have to crawl around the ballast lockers and cut/attach each of the wires for each ballast tank. And reverse that procedure if you wanted to go back to stock. And your gauges won't work any more, which maybe you don't care about.
The advantage of the ballast plug approach is that could remove it go completely back to stock. And assuming the sender rods still work, your gauges will work. And you can build the ballast plug in your garage and just plug it into the boat. But you do need the special parts so I get it.......
No more tanks. So sending rods are gone too. They don’t work with ballast bags anyway. Just cut the hanging plugs off. They are right there when you open the hatches. No need to crawl anywhere.
Great post which I think this solution will help me with my ballasts not emptying on my 2006 210 TE. My concern is that my gauges function and my tank emptying issue started at the same time (out of storage) for all 3 ballasts. Emptying relays do not engage for all 3 pumps. I think I’ll go ahead and order parts for the bypass but in the meantime would like to understand where my problem might be.
I worked on mine forever till I found the issue. My starboard side would fill and not empty. Where the port side and belly would. And all of them were unplugged from the sending units since the tanks are removed. I would unplug the pump and use the wire from the belly pump wire and switch. Then it would empty. Super weird. I thought it was the switch, so new panel went in, same problem. Then making the wire in a loop, no issues. Just shows the tanks full on the starboard side and the others show empty.
Kenogamissi SANTE That is odd that all 3 pumps stopped working at once. Just to be clear the pumps will fill but not empty? I would probably try the "jumper" method first ( #1 of the options in my write up). There is a link in the #1 approach that shows how to build it and the parts I used. That will tell you that the pumps are OK and will operate in both directions. You might also check that the connectors to and from the ballast controller are fully seated. If you removed the connector to the ballast controller (aka "run dry" module) then it would act as you describe. The 3 control signals would be floating (no connection) and you would not be able to empty the tanks. Let me know.
TechBeer thanks for the quick response. All 3 ballasts fill with no issue, gauges I believe were all functioning. Had tanks full and had to empty using a transfer pump before loading on the trailer. At the lake now. Just built a jumper to try shorting out the sender connectors. As far as the connector, I did unplug and replug it in but only after the ballasts wouldn’t fill. I’ll review your option 1 again as well. I was thinking I perhaps need to confirm output from the keypad and input/output from controller to try and figure out why no voltage at the relays. Circuit breakers seem fine and are grouped by pump and not fill/empty so I don’t suspect that either. Common parts seem to be the keypad, ballast controller and main controller
Again, I would find the ballast controller/run dry module under your dash and unplug and re-seat that connector. And possibly the other end at the PME box. That would totally explain why all 3 pumps would not empty. Shorting the sender wires at the tank will only help if the sender is indeed bad (unlikely for all 3 tanks) and everything else is OK. The #1 option above actually reverses the wires at the ballast pump and is a sure fire way to empty the tanks if the "fill function" still works. I was doing this before I built the bypass plug.
It would not surprise me if the connector to the ballast controller is keyed wrong (mine was) making it difficult to fully seat. Let me know what you find out.
TechBeer, Found the PME, didn’t realize it was the component with the circuit breakers under the dash. Both connections were good (PME and Controller). I also tried to short a sending unit but that didn’t work as you suspected. For your option number 1, I could not get to your post as it must be too old. Did you find the matching connectors? I may go with this route until I have time to diagnose all the wiring runs and connections and then trying to confirm outputs from the controller and PME.
I did notice that there is what sounds like clicking coming from the PME when I start the pumps on fill. It also makes the same sound when I try to start emptying.
Here is a screen shot of what I did. Very simple, 2 wires with male on one end and female on the other. All you are doing is reversing the wires to the ballast pump. So when you push the button to "fill", the pump will actually "empty". This just verifies that the pumps will work in both directions. And in a pinch you can empty your tanks.
That is odd that you hear a "click" from the PME box when you push "empty". If the ballast controller was preventing you from emptying them I would not expect to hear that click. Honestly I'm not sure what is going on.
TechBeer thanks for this info, I’m going to use your jumper solution in order to use the ballasts for now but do hope to have some time to get to the bottom of this issue. I will use the info in your write up and try to chase everything through with a multimeter. I hope to soon be able to report on what I find.
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