"Hump" removal on OG210

[core-rider]

I've been wanting to do this mod for a LONG time now and finally got around to it! For those of you that don't know... under the driver's dash of I guess all OG210s (for sure 2002-2006) is a false wall that the heater is hidden behind, circuit breaker panel, and one 6.5" speaker is mounted. Holding this false wall in place is a "hump" made into the floor that the wall rests against and held into place with some screws. There is a decent amount of space behind the wall for wiring, hoses, etc and this wall could be moved further toward the bow if the "hump" wasn't there making more room for things like sub enclosures! My enclosure is a design I downloaded from WetSounds website years ago and built last season with a Sundown Audio SA-12 installed in it... It sounds really good compared tony old enclosure! For reference the enclosure is 15" tall, 20" wide, and 14.75" deep with a 4" Precision Port tuned about 40hz. That brings me to the purpose of this thread because I haven't found much DIY on removing said "hump"... So bring on the pictures!!!

This is the troublesome "Hump"


You can see the holes made by the screws that hold the false wall in place.


I have found with other projects that a Ridgid JobMax is the best tool for cutting the fiberglass on these boats which is insanely strong! So I got to cutting up my perfectly good boat again!


She gone!


There was a void left in the hull where factory foam didn't quite fill up... I later found an old roll of masking tape hidden in the void between the hull and deck.


This was the void.


I filled the void with some foam and let it cure, then cut it back down flat.


I then added a piece of 1/8" HDPE just to give an even surface to layer fiberglass onto and add a bit of strength after cutting it to the shape of the hole... Here is the HDPE.


After a few layers of fiberglass mat it's sealed up, but I'm not real happy with it. It's not quite as flat as I wanted so I will add some more to even it out with the rest of the deck surface.


It was far enough along I thought so I decided to mock the enclosure back into place to check fitment and see how much space I've gained, as well as figure out where to mount the circuit breaker panel, speaker, and PP box. I will add some carpet in the place where the "hump" used to be.



I've gained roughly 8.5" of space from where the enclosure used to sit... The faint line between my feet is the indent from the enclosure feet which are 2" further back on the bottom... So imagine that line 2" towards my heels. For reference my heels are against the seat base and that's a size 11 shoe. I basically straddled the enclosure last season!


I'll have more pics of the progress once I finish the floor hopefully this weekend.

[Chuck]

Thank you sir! I might just cut the hump off and fill with foam and leave it. Would that be an issue?

[core-rider]

That spray foam isn’t very strong so I’d think over time with the vibrations from the sub and bouncing around from waves the enclosure would eventually dig a hole in it. Maybe laying something over top of the foam like a piece of HDPE would help, but over time I’m not sure.


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[Miljack]

You can purchase "2 part foam" which is stronger that the "Great Stuff" type of products. It's used for a lot things, race car seat inserts, modeling, etc. It's MESSY, but it reacts quickly and expands like crazy when activated!

[core-rider]

Thank you NautiqueJeff for moving this to DIY... I thought that's were I posted it and didn't notice till afterward.

[wakejunky]

What are you going to screw the panel to? It doesn't have anything to lean against now.

[core-rider]

What are you going to screw the panel to? It doesn't have anything to lean against now.

Haven't gotten that far yet, but my thoughts are to create a new panel that I can mount to brackets in the floor and under the dash. I'm thinking I may only build a panel to cover the space to the right of the enclosure that I will mount the 6.5" speaker in. The rest of the space is taken up with the enclosure and it doesn't look awful.

[brit_hunsicker]

My ‘01 doesn’t have that hump. It has a small “L” bracket that screws to the floor and the panel.


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[core-rider]

My ‘01 doesn’t have that hump. It has a small “L” bracket that screws to the floor and the panel.


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That’s my plan I think... just an angle bracket on the floor and something similar up top. It’s not heavy or structural so doesn’t have to be that substantial.


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[core-rider]

Added some more resin to just float out and self-level so get the floor a bit flatter... I'm glad this will all be covered up cause my OCD hates the way this fiberglass looks!

[core-rider]

Made a bit more progress today, but was quickly shutdown. I was hoping to reuse a piece of the existing false wall panel to fill the gap beside the enclosure, but it isn't quite big enough and wouldn't fit well, so I'll order some 1/2" HDPE sheet and make a new one. Mocked the speaker and heater vents in place to see how much room I have left. It will all fit, but I'm going to move the speaker lower and put the heater vents up top. I also remounted the heater, but didn't take pics of it. It sits right back here the factory placed it. I've had it out for 3 seasons now because the core developed a pinhole leak. Took it to a repair shop and they couldn't repair the pinhole so they sourced a new core and soldered the tubes back on. Unfortunately this core cost $145 instead of $30 like most heater cores, but the only other option is to buy a replacement from Heater Craft which is about the same cost and require some box modification to fit, or replace the entire unit.




Here you can kind of see where I've mounted the circuit breaker panel... It fit nicely and still allows some access if needed. I'll mount the Perfect Pass box either next to it or on the forward wall.

[NautiqueJeff]

There are some less expensive cores here:

https://www.nautiqueparts.com/?s=hea...t_type=product

[brit_hunsicker]

Here is what I did that another fellow member suggested. I broke down and bought from NautiqueParts first but it didnÂ’t fit. The stubs didnÂ’t line up with the case but something else was wrong too, just canÂ’t remember since its been a couple years. They refunded me luckily and told me that 2 different core cases were used in the OGs and I had the one they didnÂ’t sell a replacement core for I guess. First picture with red arrows is the core from NP. Second pic is core from Napa that was a small fraction of the price and required barely any trimming to the case. Works great.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NHS6603100






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[core-rider]

NautiqueJeff that is the core I was referring too but as Brit shows it takes some decent hacking of the “wrapper” to make it work so for a few bucks more mine fits.

Wish I’d had that link you show about a week ago Brit! I had to just barely trim the factory openings like you’ve done. If I ever have to replace it again I’ll remember that link.


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[core-rider]

Made a bit more progress today with the false wall... now I'm waiting on carpet color samples before I can decide what carpet to order. Hoping I can find something that matches well without going to NautiqueParts. Their price is fine, but shipping on a couple feet of carpet is double what the carpet cost is! Not blaming NP here as they don't dictate shipping costs, but hoping to find something a bit more economical. Also fabbed some brackets that will hold the wall and sub enclosure in place.