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After a few years of using a suction cup surf wedge I decided it was time to upgrade. I searched high and low for another 226 with a Go Surf Assist but could not find one- so I rolled the dice and here is a thread to show how it came down.
Step 1- lay out how the hinge will go on the boat.
For this boat it angles as shown by the blue tape.
Because the back of the boat is a bit convex, I used the spacer and shaped it with a paddle sander- craftsman brand, bought it at lowes. 1 sander did both spacers and they took about 15 or 20 minutes each to shape.
To get the layout exact, once the spacer was shaped I used duct tape to put it on the hull. Then I taped a coat hanger wire to show the extension of the tab that goes past the hinge. You do not want the tabs to be lower than the boat, and because the hull has lots of transitions, this allowed me to place the spacer exactly where it needed to be.
Then, I used the spacer as a template to drill the holes for the hinge.
Next was placing the Lenco actuator. The bottom of the mounting bracket was 1 1/4 inches on one side, and just a bit longer than that on the other side.
The wires that fish up tot he dash needed to be run into the back of the boat through the hull. I tried in vain to fish a wire from the actuator hole into someplace I could find it, so i ended up going in right above the exhaust port and nest to the center swim platform bracket. I sacrificed another coat hanger through the hole and used it as fish tape for the wires. By wrapping the wires onto the coat hanger with electric tape, I was able to coax the hanger to appear between the mufflers. then it was an easy pull tot he top of the motor to connect the wires and run them along the starboard side up tot he dash area.
I placed the control as shown in the next photo. It is a bit tight to reach, but the other option for me was to fab a stand alone bracket out of metal and mount it like on the dash area.
I grabbed power from the fuse box, the leads are clearly marked and by putting the leads for this behind the existing leads, I did not need to change to smaller ends.
I will upload some photos of the completed project in the next few days. By the time I got done it was dark...
I am also upgrading the ballast tanks and will add that info into this thread after they get in and I actually do the work.
Step 1- lay out how the hinge will go on the boat.
For this boat it angles as shown by the blue tape.
Because the back of the boat is a bit convex, I used the spacer and shaped it with a paddle sander- craftsman brand, bought it at lowes. 1 sander did both spacers and they took about 15 or 20 minutes each to shape.
To get the layout exact, once the spacer was shaped I used duct tape to put it on the hull. Then I taped a coat hanger wire to show the extension of the tab that goes past the hinge. You do not want the tabs to be lower than the boat, and because the hull has lots of transitions, this allowed me to place the spacer exactly where it needed to be.
Then, I used the spacer as a template to drill the holes for the hinge.
Next was placing the Lenco actuator. The bottom of the mounting bracket was 1 1/4 inches on one side, and just a bit longer than that on the other side.
The wires that fish up tot he dash needed to be run into the back of the boat through the hull. I tried in vain to fish a wire from the actuator hole into someplace I could find it, so i ended up going in right above the exhaust port and nest to the center swim platform bracket. I sacrificed another coat hanger through the hole and used it as fish tape for the wires. By wrapping the wires onto the coat hanger with electric tape, I was able to coax the hanger to appear between the mufflers. then it was an easy pull tot he top of the motor to connect the wires and run them along the starboard side up tot he dash area.
I placed the control as shown in the next photo. It is a bit tight to reach, but the other option for me was to fab a stand alone bracket out of metal and mount it like on the dash area.
I grabbed power from the fuse box, the leads are clearly marked and by putting the leads for this behind the existing leads, I did not need to change to smaller ends.
I will upload some photos of the completed project in the next few days. By the time I got done it was dark...
I am also upgrading the ballast tanks and will add that info into this thread after they get in and I actually do the work.
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