Using ballast level gauges with bags - OG210

[Alcottawa]

Hi, I've got an 02 SANTE that I've been doing the standard ballast upgrades to using a bunch of guidance from this page, noticed everyone been abandoning the ballast gauges, here's what I've done to keep them functional using 750's in the back.

See pics for detail:

I used about 18" of 2" pvc pipe per tank, two tees with 3/4" female thread, two threaded 3/4" barbed adapters, one 3/4" barbed Tee and two 2" end caps. I drilled a 1-1/8" hole in the top one end cap to slip the sending unit through and used marine sealant and screws to fasten it in - note: be sure the float on the sending unit isn't binding in the sides, once I had the 5 screws of the sending unit in place I used them to center the post in the pipe. Feed the bottom intake of the new sending unit pipe assembly from the spare bottom port of the ballast bag. Connect from the top port of the assembly to the vent line with the 3/4" tee. Fasten the sending unit assembly vertically in the hatch, make the connection back to the guage and biggity bang - working guages.
I'll attach a few more pics of it installed, was a little pressed for time but here are the construction photos...

Sent from my SM-G986W using Tapatalk




Big thanks to stevemo, bturner and many others... my projects have gone infinitely smoother with the how-to's posted here

[hal2814]

I’ve been looking at a similar canister solution after I built an Arduino box to convert the newer pressure gauge to an older resistance feed. That’s not reliable at all due to the sensors. Does your solution work fine with the outlet being so low compared to the float? Seems like an air bubble would form for everything above it. That looks a lot simpler than what I’ve come up with so far.

[Alcottawa]

It reads about 15/16ths of full on the gauge, I did play around with where I had it mounted vertically. My first thought was to drill a very small hole in the top (less than 1/8th) and just let a bit spurt into the bilge but I was good with how it functions. I also considered making up a cap so the vent line would be closer to the top as opposed to using off the shelf stuff... I'll re evaluate mid season,,,

I added a 15 min spring wound timer in parallel with my fill switches as well... super easy way to get some set it and forget it control, I'll likely add another post on that shortly,

[NautiqueJeff]

This is awesome! I love the idea of this thing.

[03SANTE]

That's pretty sweet! Beats my open the hatch and guess method for anything less than full surf ballast. If you can, post a pic of them in position.

[MN Ryan]

Very cool. I don't want to give up the space in my boat, but I really like the ingenuity!

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

[Alcottawa]

Here is a pic of it installed, now that I've confirmed it works as expected I'll get proper ballast hose on there, I'll get it tied up to the divider with a couple 2" conduit straps for good measure and to tidy things up.


p.s. I'm pretty sure the hose from wakemakers is the same stuff as non-metallic liquid tight conduit, except grey not black, I've had some installed for three seasons without any degradation or loss of flex.

Sent from my SM-G986W using Tapatalk

[hal2814]

I’ve made a few tweaks on my end and am going to try out your design. My 230 has short tanks so I’m using the 10” sensor I already have. If this works I plan to build the same with a longer float sensor that more accurately measures full bag height. My differences were small. I used plugs instead of caps to keep the sensor closer to the tees. I also use an irrigation valve instead of outputting to another line. It lets air out but not water on fill. On drain it lets air in. I used them back when I had a piggyback setup to prevent the hard tanks from collapsing. Doing it this way I can just branch this independently from the bag. I’ll report back on how mine does once I give it a trial run.

[Alcottawa]

Using the plugs instead of caps is a great idea, you just solved my center locker bag height dilemma... where did you find plugs? I sourced all my stuff from a hot tub shop and they had nothing listed. I'm going to do some reading on the irrigation valves too, that's a great idea... do they have a little float valve in them?

Sent from my SM-G986W using Tapatalk

[hal2814]

Lowe’s has 2” PVC plugs. I got them from a PVC pipe store online because Lowe’s didn’t have the tees I needed in stock and I wanted to get it all in one purchase.

Here’s the valve I bought. https://www.dripdepot.com/item/kinet...xoCGscQAvD_BwE

It’s something shaped like a ping pong ball that acts as the float. It floats up against the top when full of water and is shockingly good at not leaking.

[MN Ryan]

These are great ideas, guys. I love the ingenuity.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

[hal2814]

I finally got the chance to put this in my 230 this week. I run bags and fill from the back. This was put in the front and sits just behind the rear bench just below the vent line. It works pretty well. It gets a little so key at each end. It doesn’t show completely full or completely empty. But it’s close enough.

[jhiestand]

I'm just getting around to removing the tanks from my 210 and was lamenting the loss of being able to use level gauges, but this gives me some hope. These setups still working okay? What length senders would be most appropriate for 750 bags? Guessing 18" since that's the rough height of the bags?

[srock]

Brilliant guys...nice post