rear platform rebuild 2000 SAN

[msquito]

hey all, planning to rebuild the rear platform for our 2000 SAN for a few reasons which I'm happy to elaborate on if anyone's curious, but more to the point I have a couple things in mind that I wanted to float by the group to see if anyone can think of a good idea why my ideas are bad ...
* planning on teak - probably something with more gap/space in it than the existing +/- same shape and dims as original
* planning on upgrading brackets - thinking to change to the brackets on newer boats (links below) - I'm aware we're talking about current 4-hole mount vs. proposed 2-hole. Thinking of having a custom block milled that will bolt through the existing 4-holes in the transom and capture the bolt-head end of 2-bolts as studs for new platform plate
https://www.nautiqueparts.com/produc...e-port-14-deg/
https://www.nautiqueparts.com/produc...-port-210-230/
* planning on raising the platform an inch or two to accommodate the additional weight of all the ballast in the boat when surfing (so we're not dragging the platform). Maybe an hdpe spacer between the brackets and platform so that it can be removed if we decide we don't like the higher platform

Any thoughts, encouragement, ridicule?
thx!

[Rusty Barras]

I'm in a similar spot. My platform is starting to flex more and has signs of some rot. i also have an interest in widening it a bit more to cover my surf tabs.

Options I'm considering.
1. Repair rot teak and keep the same dimensions and restore oils/finish
2. use original as a mold/plug to build a fiberglass wider version,
3. get Plasteak.com to build me a new one to my preferred dimensions. (Roughly $0.50/sqin)

https://www.plasteak.com/plasteak-re...swim-platforms

[msquito]

Looks pretty familiar. I modified (shortened) ours a bit a couple summers ago to fit into the dock length agreement. Found it was pretty straightforward, the platform itself isn't the tricky part in my estimation. It'll be the brackets. The old style brackets are destroyed on our boat, I assume from being moored stern - out and lots of drive-by surf. This is why I'm planning towards the newer bracket style.

[Rusty Barras]

MY brackets are ok and i hope to re-use them. I'm leaning towards getting Plasteak to make a new one. If that happens i'll be selling this one.

[MN Ryan]

Interesting. Do you think part of the problem is the tight spacing between boards not allowing the teak to dry out? My only experience with a teak platform was on a 25+ year old MasterCraft. That platform had ~ 1/4" gaps between the slats, and it faired much better than Rusty's.

[Rusty Barras]

I don't think my problem is common. I had a coating encase the whole platform for years to protect it and give it a different look. Turns out it held moisture in and accelerated the rot


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[msquito]

yeah, mine doesn't exhibit the same rot as yours, but it does seem to suffer a bit from a full season stored wet (dreaming of a lift). My drivers are primarily the brackets that are destroyed, and the desire to add back a little real-estate to the platform. I'm going to go ahead and order the plates and brackets and see what it takes to get that custom block milled up. Will share progress back in the thread as I remember to...

[Rusty Barras]

Good luck! I'd love to see the progress


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[MN Ryan]

Call me weird, but rebuilding a teak platform sounds like an enjoyable project, to me.

[msquito]

takes one to know one I guess

[msquito]

Okay, been awhile in the doing, but here goes...
First - the new model platform brackets are, in my estimation a significantly better design. They have a two-hole mounting pattern, the old brackets had 4-holes. I downloaded a trial version of Fusion360, and modeled an adapter block that would through-bolt using the existing four holes in the transom, while capturing the head of two bolts for the new bracket - basically turning them into studs. I measured existing bracket for four-hole position, and slotted the bottom of the two-bolt holes just to be sure I had some tolerance in there. After modeling the adapter, I uploaded to an online CNC fab shop who off-shored it to China and I had two blocks CNC milled out of 6061 AL in 8 days.
Some pics below

[msquito]

With those built and fit verified, pivoted to the platform build itself. Started with three pieces of 4/4 teak 7" x 84" all +/- straightlined. Got talked into a lower tooth-count blade for my tablesaw vs the finish blade I was leaning towards. Happy I was talked into it, that stuff cuts beautifully. Really enjoyed working with the teak. Took some doing to milk all of the pieces out of those three boards. but I managed. I used the existing platform to template the leading edge against the transom, ended up making the platform a little wider than the original in order to ensure I had the space to clear the brackets. Before anyone asks, yes, I'm sure I used enough fasteners... Build pics below

[msquito]

Finished the platform with half a dozen coats of teak oil, followed by a couple days of touchup/wipedown to pick up any excess

[msquito]

Installation took two nights, first night I forgot to bring the grinder to take the top bolt/stud and nut down to flush so the bracket would sit tight. Bedded a piece of 1/4" delrin in a 3M adhesive/sealant between the adapter block and the fiberglass (also filled holes before feeding bolts through). Tonight came back, ground stud/nut to flush, set the bracket, and blind-fastened the platform. I used a 3/4" kingboard spacer block between the bracket and platform to raise the platform a little to accommodate (at least a little) for frequently submerged platform after filling the bags. some photos below...

[MN Ryan]

Before anyone asks, yes, I'm sure I used enough fasteners...

LOL!

Fabulous work. It came out beautifully. Great attention to detail. I'm curious about the saw blade you used for the teak and why it was recommended--I've never worked with teak.