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i think that many watts needed to push a sub in mobile enviorment is really hard to do....it requires a high out altenator (150 amps minimum) and caps and batteries... imo if a sub needs over 500-750 watts of mono clean power somethng is amiss in the design.. the new high powered sub designs are great for home theatre where there isnt that much long term demand, but with music in a mobile enviorment, the gear doesnt last....i have tried it at great expense and $$$$ loss.. ...
i love jl amps, but the subs are too inefficent and they dont last.... dont get me wrong...jl does make a great sub, it all comes down to system design and preferences.
any sub below 87 db efficency,start looking at someting else because it will be very hard to drive and will take a toll on your amps and alternator.
.the image dynamics have a intergrated surround ( one piece ) and wont fall apart after 2 years.... thats what happens with kickers and jl's... the surround becomes detached and you are left with the sub coming apart....
i have been around high end home and car audio for 20 years and have done 6 car systems and have tried ALOT of highend subs ( old soundstream, a/d/s, jl, kicker, boston....it is really hard to do better than the image dynamic subs for sound quality and loudness and durability...once you hear and feel them, you will be sold...
the local nautique dealer and his help took a listen to my car system and is waiting with baited breath to hear the boat system...please keep in mind, it took me a year to "tune" my car... the bass is in the front cabin and there is no smear or transit delay...it is very cohesive and the imaging is on the dash and hood. i hoping for the boat to be the same, but even better since it is a "open" listening enviroment ( this requires ALOT of clean power)..
if you wanted to run a single sub then a jw7 or a image dynamic id max will do....but 2 idq 12's will be better than a single 12 of that design (2 x's the cone area).
as for batteries.... i have 2 optima blue top gel cells and perko switch....
the subs will go in the storage area... the only question is Sealed vs. Ported ( smaller box / less output though higher quality or bigger box more output/ less sound quality....
i love jl amps, but the subs are too inefficent and they dont last.... dont get me wrong...jl does make a great sub, it all comes down to system design and preferences.
any sub below 87 db efficency,start looking at someting else because it will be very hard to drive and will take a toll on your amps and alternator.
.the image dynamics have a intergrated surround ( one piece ) and wont fall apart after 2 years.... thats what happens with kickers and jl's... the surround becomes detached and you are left with the sub coming apart....
i have been around high end home and car audio for 20 years and have done 6 car systems and have tried ALOT of highend subs ( old soundstream, a/d/s, jl, kicker, boston....it is really hard to do better than the image dynamic subs for sound quality and loudness and durability...once you hear and feel them, you will be sold...
the local nautique dealer and his help took a listen to my car system and is waiting with baited breath to hear the boat system...please keep in mind, it took me a year to "tune" my car... the bass is in the front cabin and there is no smear or transit delay...it is very cohesive and the imaging is on the dash and hood. i hoping for the boat to be the same, but even better since it is a "open" listening enviroment ( this requires ALOT of clean power)..
if you wanted to run a single sub then a jw7 or a image dynamic id max will do....but 2 idq 12's will be better than a single 12 of that design (2 x's the cone area).
as for batteries.... i have 2 optima blue top gel cells and perko switch....
the subs will go in the storage area... the only question is Sealed vs. Ported ( smaller box / less output though higher quality or bigger box more output/ less sound quality....
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