N2M 2000 SAN

[nukemustang]

If the original aerator style pumps are what is used to fill and drain the bow sac, yes... it could be an issue. There were a lot of issues with keeping those pumps primes and then the fact they do not stop water flow-by when there is pressure (like driving thru the water) is one of the main reasons the switch to reversible impeller style pumps was made. you should just have to replace two aerator (one fill and one drain) with one jabsco reversible style.

The valves leaking is a well documented issue, those flow rite valves were initially designed to hold water in live wells on boats, not control ballast tanks that are almost "ram-filled" from the scuppers on the bottom of the hull.

[MaineDR]

Built some new engine dividers today from some 9 1/4" PCV trim board and 1/2" aluminum channel. Cost me just under $100 which I felt was good considering HDPE or Seaboard was around $200 and up. I also made fixed my engine hatch prop issue by welding (very poorly) a bracket to a larger plate, pulled off the vinyl on the corners put a backing plate on and stapling it back up. I order two 30lb struts which didn't have enough force. I had a 150lb prop left over from the previous owner which had ripped out the screw on the old bracket so I put that on there. I don't really like having it on there as I think the 150lb puts too much stress on the brackets. I think I might order two 70-80lbers to see if those work better. Anyone done this before that know what lb might work? It will obviously vary a little bit depending on the angles you mount them at etc.

[MaineDR]

Built some new engine dividers today from some 9 1/4" PCV trim board and 1/2" aluminum channel. Cost me just under $100 which I felt was good considering HDPE or Seaboard was around $200 and up. I also made fixed my engine hatch prop issue by welding (very poorly) a bracket to a larger plate, pulled off the vinyl on the corners put a backing plate on and stapling it back up. I order two 30lb struts which didn't have enough force. I had a 150lb prop left over from the previous owner which had ripped out the screw on the old bracket so I put that on there. I don't really like having it on there as I think the 150lb puts too much stress on the brackets. I think I might order two 70-80lbers to see if those work better. Anyone done this before that know what lb might work? It will obviously vary a little bit depending on the angles you mount them at etc.

[MaineDR]

Just a few pics I snapped today.


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[MaineDR]

Carpet is mostly gone. Diy seadek coming soon. To save a lot of cost of a custom seadek order, I am ordering raw sheets, cutting and routing them myself for the open floor space. Monstaliner gets here Monday. I should hopefully have the floor ready to prime this week. Removing all the glue isn't too bad with a good belt sander.

[Treybizttu]

Keeping it now?

[MaineDR]

Haven't really decided yet. I'm looking to bankroll a new house in the next year or so...so most likely I will keep it up for sale until the right buyer comes along. It needed new carpet, and I have been wanting to do this since I got it so I decided to get it a go. I can't ever keep anything the way that it is...haha. There are a few more things I really want to do to this, but I just don't have the time. I would love to powdercoat the vents/windshield, repaint the headers, and maybe repaint the trailer but one project at time.

[Treybizttu]

I completely understand... I'm still holding on to ours instead of upgrading because we are house shopping currently. Once that shakes out I'd like to move to a bit newer v-drive.

[MaineDR]

I got around to working on the boat some more tonight. The next step I had to tackle was this...I always had a weird creak in on spot of my floor. I had a suspicion what the problem was and I was right. The fiberglass at the ski locker had cracked where the floor and runner meet. There is a poorly constructed gap between the two about 1/4 inch. So over time it failed. I chilled out all the cracked glass and laid up two layers of glass. I may add another layer or two after I see how this cures up. I plan on making some type of metal support that connects to the aluminum cross member shown to help support the cantilevered sections.


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[MaineDR]

Got a little forward momentum on this project. It's taking a lot longer than I had originally anticipated and I still feel like I'm rushing the process a bit. There are lots of tiny imperfections you find hiding under that carpet.


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[MaineDR]

This is just the first coat of primer by the way. I went with Tuff Stuff by SeaHawk. Overall pretty pleased with it. It's pricey though at about $100 a gallon. I got a half gallon but that ended up only being enough for one fairly light coat and I still need to prime the passenger seat base and underneath the bow.


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[MaineDR]

First coat of Monstaliner. Pretty happy with how it went. I did have a major issue with the rollers they provide falling apart. There were little tiny pieces of roller in my finish which ticked me off some. It's apparently a common issue. The finish with the Monstaliner looks good. Coverage was a little hard on the plastic pieces with the first coat. I am hoping the second coat covers up more of the thin spots. Overall pretty happy with it despite a few problems. For the second coat I am going to change rollers more regularly and go light on the pressure.


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[t.franscioni]

Awesome! Thanks for sharing. Are you going to seadeck the seat bases? What carpet areas are you leaving? (Bottom of bow walk through pads, up under the helm)

also so can you post an up lose pic of the monstaliner when you get final coat on? I would like to see the texture of it after applied and cured. Thanks again for posting I'm always going back and forth on sea deck.

[MaineDR]

No seadek on the seat bases, just monstaliner. I've seen your build t.franscioni and its awesome. You shouldn't have a problem with it because you are pulling the top deck, but if I had to do this again I would stop at the bow and leave the carpet up there. It was very hard to remove and in some places you can't remove it all as it is sandwiched between the top deck and hull. Working to remove the glue up there was not easy either. The only carpet I am leaving are the sides of the hull, the bottom of the walk through, the drivers kick panel, and the little piece that separates the bow from the under the dash. If I had to do it over or was really concerned with cost I would consider leaving the carpet on the seat bases and just doing the floor up to the bow. It would save a lot of time and $. The finish on the monstaliner doesn't seem too bad so far. It is supposed to have a smooth but slight orange peel look to it, and is slightly rubbery feeling but very strong and flexible. It won't chip or crack like gelcoat. I wish I had color matched it to existing gelcoat white a little better, but its ok to me. Color matching can be tricky business. Monstaliner may be able do a custom tint if you can somehow provide them with a sample of your gelcoat color. I will get you some close ups when I am done.

[t.franscioni]

Thanks