SE Louisiana 01 SAN

[Rusty Barras]

I finally thought i would share my boat... still a work in progress, but i finish the first round of upgrades and fixes. Bought the boat locally in 2014 and finally starting to get hours on it.


2001 Super Air Nautique 210 restoration and upgrades
http://imgur.com/a/f8f8O

[Rusty Barras]

old radio

3d modeling

raw 3d print

3d printed and linex'ed clarion adapter

sound!

new radio and amp

new radio and amp

speaker mounting

speaker mounting

speaker mounting

speakers!

radio complete

working

new perko flush kit

new isolated dual battery charger

battery isolator w/ alternator compensation

power ports in storage box

New thru hull fittings for upgraded ballast

ballast pump control panel

new ballast pumps

[Rusty Barras]

control panel for ballast pumps

ballast valve manifold

hydraulic steering conversion

dash fiberglass repair

dash fiberglass repair

dash fiberglass repair

dash fiberglass repair

dash fiberglass repair

new faria gps speedo, tach and volt meters

linex-ed swim deck

interior after

new bow vinyl and speakers

interior after

interior after

aerial after interior repair

aerial after interior repair
"
the rig Gt40 towing the gt40"
"
the rig Gt40 towing the gt40"
"
views"
"
views"

[Rusty Barras]

dog

play time

play time

[Rusty Barras]

Future Plans
Vertical discharge on ballast pumps for run dry protection
Replace remaining Gauges and paint dash trim
Fresh air exhaust
Mission Delta
seadek platform
Replace remaining upholstery
Perfect Pass GPS
urethane and seadek floor?? (maybe)

also i thought i'd share my ballast diagram for anyone that it might help

[TRIP]

That's some thorough work. Nice!

[glp86]

Very nice! Do you like how the ballast manifold works or do you wish you had done three pumps? Also, where is the manifold mounted?

[Rusty Barras]

Very nice! Do you like how the ballast manifold works or do you wish you had done three pumps? Also, where is the manifold mounted?

Thank you!

Manifold is in the port side rear locker. My controls use the factory empty/fill buttons. Both pumps come on this way, and i decided to use a manifold to give me control. I'm mostly happy with it. Right now the rears fill faster than the front, unless i pinch the valve. That's a problem trying to keep 50/50 front/rear distribution since the rears can hold so much more than the front. It's sometimes needs babysitting when filling.

I think next year i'm going to modify it a bit. I want a dedicated pump to the front and then manifold just two rear bags. This way front/rear should fill close to equal rate and i can still lean it if needed. OR might leave as is and just trade the 750s for 400s, that way when everything is full, it's evenly ballasted regardless of fill rate (my ski locker is an 800 custom bag). I rarely fill the 750s all the way

Long answer to a short question, i know, sorry. I do think three pumps would function better. i couldn't find a spot I liked to install a third pump, and pvc was cheaper.

[DLafont]

Nice work!! Makes me feel a little lazy...

[t.franscioni]

Wow lots of cool work you've done! I have a couple questions on some things that you did that I also am working on.

1) I'm playing around with 3D printing for some parts as well. What printer did you use? Was it an at home unit like makerbot or did you just create the cad file and have it printed by a third party company?

2) what resin did you use to bond the fiberglass to the plastic dash panels? West systems G flex epoxy?

[Rusty Barras]

Wow lots of cool work you've done! I have a couple questions on some things that you did that I also am working on.

1) I'm playing around with 3D printing for some parts as well. What printer did you use? Was it an at home unit like makerbot or did you just create the cad file and have it printed by a third party company?

2) what resin did you use to bond the fiberglass to the plastic dash panels? West systems G flex epoxy?

My friend printed it on his home printer Mfg: MakerBot, Model: Replicator 2. I roughed in the model. My brother has a licensed copy of Rhino and he closed the surfaces up. I'm not great with CAD details.

Honestly, the resin was some basic stuff at a local hdwr store. I did a fair amount of roughing up the plastic for prep and it sticks okay. In hindsight, i wish i would have shopped more, because one small spot did pull away.

[t.franscioni]

Thanks for info. Yes the fiberglass to plastic is a tough one to get a structural bond. Iv been looking at a plastic approved epoxy by west systems. Being dash pod repairs don't need to be structural repairs it's probably just fine to go with any epoxy though I think you've proved that here.

[j-rob]

Very tidy work sir, looks thoroughly thought out and executed.
Out of shear curiosity, can you elaborate on the hydraulic steering?
I had no idea that was even a thing.

Also, what are the two discharge lines between the thru hull/ball valve/check valve stack and pump inlets for? For emptying?
What purpose does this check valve serve following the ball valve? If it were eliminated, could you not simply drain the bags back through the thru hull?

Please forgive the ill informed questions, I have just been researching ballast systems and wrapping my head around all the variables, and different layouts.

Thanks!

[Rusty Barras]

The check valve is so I can discharge above the water line. I wanted to hear and see when the tanks run out so I can make sure I shut them off and not fry the pumps. It would have been easier to discharge out the bottom thru hull, but I knew I'd lose track of the draining.

Here the part numbers on the teleflex kit I used. Turns with a finger, and also fits the dash hole perfectly. I did lose my helm angle adjustment and D-shaped wheel. But overall it's awesome. I'm on mobile, but will try to find pics later.

Teleflex Helm HH5271-3
Teleflex Helm HC5370-3
Teleflex Hose Kit HO5120 (this was a bit long HO5118 would be better i think)

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

[a.klos]

I like the idea of hydrolic steering. What parts did you use for it?