95 Super Sport rehab

[kylem03]

So this post ha been a long time coming. I wanted to update everyone on my winter progress thread which I initially started talking about at https://www.planetnautique.com/vb5/f...read-2016-2017

I've been hard at work on the boat mostly every weekend since I brought it home at the end of October.


Started by stripping the boat of all ballast, stereo wiring, interior, and taking the fugly tower off. First thing I did was repair the old tower holes with gel coat. Unfortunately the patch I got from nautiqueparts turned out to have a pinkish hue. Hopefully the sun will bleach it out. The front holes will be covered up by my NDT tower feet.




Sent from my iPhone using PLT Nautique

[kylem03]

Next I peeled all the vinyl pinstriping and registration decals off the sides, unscrewed the snaps from around the playpen, and removed the thru hull fittings.

I then wetsanded the entire top and sides with 800 then 1000. After that I buffed with wizards turbo cut and then finish cut. I then waxed with meguiars flagship.

In the meantime when I'm not in the garage hard at work (15 miles away at my parents) I've been sourcing parts for my ballast system, fabricating engine dividers and aluminum supports for new gas shocks for the rear hatch, working on wiring the stereo into the dash, wiring the hydrophase into the dash, and cleaning up some wiring that a few mice got to near the accessory switches. I also cleaned and re oiled the teak platform, refinished the shift knob, and had all the seat cushion upholstery re-fitted - adding hidem and fabric cushion bottom backing. I had to make a new starboard rear corner cushion seat bottom. I think I pulled a few thousand steel (rusting) staples.


Sent from my iPhone using PLT Nautique

[kylem03]

In addition to re-fitting, I had the upholsterer make a new seat back and bottom for the driver seat, a new backrest for the arena, and a new playpen bottom.


I removed the old pvc speaker tubes and mesh from the side panels and flush mounted 2 pairs of Polk db651's

I pulled the carpet from the side seat base trays and cut in spaces for 2 stainless steel cup holders on each side, then re-glued the carpet.

A corner of the center ski locker hatch was soft so I peeled back the carpet, cut out the soft spot with the dremel, and re-fiber glasses the corner- first filling with fiberglass resin filler where there was once foam core.

So long as I was working with fiberglass resin I built a .8 CF sealed sub box for a 12" sub for under the helm out of 3/4" mDF and stainless hardware, coated the box with resin, and painted. Pics to come.

I also had to patch an elongated fastener hole in the playpen cushion fiberglass back so it would pull tight to the hull when re attached.


Sent from my iPhone using PLT Nautique

[kylem03]

So long as I had the floor open in the boat I ran new 4awg accessory power wires from the battery to a fuse panel I built for ballast switches and amps for under the dash. I bundled these cables in 1" plastic conduit along with the ballast pump wires, hydrophase gps motor wire bundle, temp sensor wire, and hot shower power wire. Fishing this sucker was a PITA even though I had the floor up.

I wired in 2 kicker amps which are mounted either side of the drivers feet - a zx350.4 for the 6.5's and a zx400.1 for a Polk db1240 sub. I had to make carpeted mounting panels for the walk thru side to hang the amp on, and I mounted the amp to a 1/2" sheet of HDPE that is secured to the hull where the accessory pouch would normally be.

I made the engine dividers out of the 1/2" hdpe and also made new crash pads for the trailer. I think I have enough left to build a complete suction cup surf gate.

Presently I am trying to source aluminum to make a bracket to mount ballast pumps, the hydrophase throttle motor, a blue water systems battery switch, and Yandina c100 charging relay behind the rear seat Attached to the existing upright supports.

I will also need to source new starting battery cables with clamps as my old cables aren't long enough to put the batteries on the "shelf" adjacent to the rear seat, and the clamps were not soldered on - only the crappy Walmart pinch clamp style, so I need to take care of that. I soldered 3/8" rings on to the ends of the old cables so they should work for the 2nd deep cycle battery I am adding for the accessories.



Sent from my iPhone using PLT Nautique

[kylem03]

As far as the engine goes I replaced the starboard exhaust manifold after realizing it was cracked upon removal to take care of the riser gasket. All manifold bolts came out easy except for 1 I had to fight since the riser leak had rusted out the hex head such that no Allen keys would grab. A simple extractor worked like a charm. For the replacement I got a take off in real good shape (new 10 years or so ago based on the casting) for $100 and painted it up to look like new.

I also hooked up the hydrophase on to the throttle assembly.

I have since found a spare prop - an acme 1464
On eBay that I snagged. I'll likely run it primarily and keep the 856 I have now as the spare.

Question for anyone following- the top nut on my starboard motor mount is stuck and I can't move it. When I got the boat there was about .75" gap between the nut and the lateral post going to the block. I can "loosen" the lower nut on the threads to lift the motor and pinch it against the top nut. After doing this prop still spins easy so I'm guessing no real effect on alignment. Any thoughts on what is going on? I tried acetone/atf and heat and still no go.


Sent from my iPhone using PLT Nautique

[t.franscioni]

I was going to suggest acetone and atf.... those motor mounts freeze up after years of moisture I had to pull mine completely and rebuild them to get them working properly. Used a vise and long wrench with extension tube to break everything loose. When I put them back together I used plenty of anti seize on the nuts and threads to prevent it in future. The threaded shaft is stainless steel and the nuts are cad plated steel which will rust eventually and then jam up.

Nice work by the way. Gel coat looks great in pics.

[t.franscioni]

Forgot I did use some "rust away" spray on some of the jammed nuts it basically dissolved the rust and made it possible to break the nut loose. Problem is it will strip any cadmium plating on the nut itself and make it prone to rusting much quicker. Options are to have the steel parts replated or just paint them and that will help keep the rust from taking over again in future.

[kylem03]

Finished wiring the cruise and stereo yesterday and was able to put the dash back together.

I also took a few photos of amp and sub mounts, and ballast switch positioning.

I installed the new pump for the hot shower. Now I just need to figure out where to mount the mixing valve. I think I may put it behind the rear seat backrest.



Sent from my iPhone using PLT Nautique

[Quinner]

Nice work on everything. Regarding wax, get some Collinite Fleetwax paste!! Ran out this last spring and used Mequires Flagship instead, was really surprised in the noticeable difference in protection between the two after just one summer. Ideally have the valves in the same spot the shower head will be stored, ideally this would be a place accessible from the platform although that may be tough with how your sundeck opens. BTW, shower is great however I probably use my heater more, ymmv.

[zoah]

Please install a new rub rail insert.

http://www.nautiqueparts.com/product...-1987-to-2005/

I wouldn't mount that switch panel there. Someone is bound to break it off or gash their leg open.

Put it under the throttle or next to the throttle.

[kylem03]

Hey Zoah I've got a new insert actually! Just waiting for it to get warm enough so it can be worked when I put it in. As for the switch panel, I took it and the wiring off my 94 sport nautique where it was mounted in the same spot. I wanted to put it by the throttle but Unfortunately the wires wouldn't reach for me to be able to do this. I'll give it a season and see how it goes.

[kylem03]

Hey Quinner I'll be sure to get some of that collinite and try it out! As far as the shower goes, the boat has the hookups so I figured I'd replace the pump since I can't stand having things that don't work. I considered taking it all out but thought it might be nice to have. I was thinking that I may be able to mount the mixing valve near the pump (which is somewhat inaccessible), then set/forget once I adjust it to a comfortable temp once the engine is warmed up.


Sent from my iPhone using PLT Nautique

[kylem03]

So I owe you all an update: boat work is done and I have put 10 hours on her in the few short weeks she's been in the water. The family is thrilled and our 4-month old Teagan loves being in the boat.

Thanks for for all the encouragement and wealth of knowledge from the members on this site!

Kyle

[a.klos]

I don't see pics.

[kylem03]

That is odd. They show up on my phone...