does anybody have an opinion on a good roll pan handle for wake boarding? Right now we are using a straight line handle with a Ronix rope. the onthe only wakeboarding store in our area carries only Ronix. Not sure that I really like my Ronix rope it gets very kinked up. I guess I just thought I would see what other people like in case I have to order one of the internet. thanks for your input.
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"Recently" I upgrades the all the tow ropes to the coated stuff and it makes coiling up the lines pretty easy
My source:
http://www.adrenalinewatersports.com/cat.aspx?CatID=10
I have to admit I don't know what a roll pan handle is. . .2010 Super Air Nautique 210 Team Edition
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- Feb 2011
- 189
- Fuquay-Varina, North Carolina, United States
- 2015 A22 2014 A22 SOLD 2009 210 SOLD 2007 210 SOLD
I'm bias, but the new coated lines from Ronix are much nicer than years past. I'm a big fan of the Combo 6.0, all other handles seem way too small for me now.[URL="http://www.ridebutter.com"]http://www.ridebutter.com[/URL]
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I'd be happy to sell you my non-coated, so I can buy one that is. Every month I have to untwist my "straight line". Maybe next month I'll hang it off a 90' bridge.2013 G23 450 with NSS (175hrs) and still have the original prop
2010 SANTE 230 343 (280hrs)
pre 2010 - various open bow boats and jet skis
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so you are saying for sure get one that is coated.have you ever tried holding the handle in the boat while you are going about 25 or 30 miles an hour and dragging the line in the lake that usually gets it untwisted pretty good.
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I'm one of the few who do not like coated lines. They are absolutely the best when they're new, but everyone I've seen gets mucked up after a while. The coating/sheath pulls away from the end of the rope where you add additional lengths and where the handle attaches. And the coating/sheath can get kinked or otherwise messed up over time. I much prefer lines such as the Accurate Yellow Jacket (my favorite...though I use the black and white "zebra" version). It stays in shape, coils well, does not kink, is stiff, and runs through your hands easily (though not as easily as a new coated line).
With either type, I don't have to drag behind the boat to as 5bison suggests...though if someone has messed up your rope, that works really well even at idle speed.
Lines get twisted up because when you coil them you introduce a half twist with every coil. That's a lot of twisting every time you coil the rope. The trick on coiling is to alternate overhand/underhand (though you can do it with a twist of the wrist instead of a full overhand/underhand movement). I can't explain it well enough, so I googled, and this is the first video I found...I'm sure there are better: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nSxhjzFMKiM
His instructions are correct with respect to alternating the loops, but his method is a little awkward as he does a full overhand/underhand movement instead of managing it with a twist of the wrist. If you coil your rope this way, you'll never have to drag it behind the boat again...coated or uncoated. I started alternating coils two years ago on my zebra line and it still has no twists and I haven't had to drag it behind the boat. The guys I ride with regularly all coil like this so it's pretty easy to keep our lines nice.Previous boats:
2015 G23
2008 SAN 210
2002 XStar
1995 Sport Nautique
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Originally posted by 5bison View Postso you are saying for sure get one that is coated.have you ever tried holding the handle in the boat while you are going about 25 or 30 miles an hour and dragging the line in the lake that usually gets it untwisted pretty good.2013 G23 450 with NSS (175hrs) and still have the original prop
2010 SANTE 230 343 (280hrs)
pre 2010 - various open bow boats and jet skis
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