can someone please give me some advise on what fat sacs are the best. what pump is the best and best value..is there anything else i need besides the pump and sacs?...do the pumps "pump" the lake water back into the lake?..never seen them in person so i dont know much about them. any comments would be great PDT_031
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RE: fat sacs
I will defer to others who own these boats, but think that the best wake you will be able to get out of your boat (and safely) will involve putting about 200 or so pounts in the bow area (lead will work best because of space) and 400 or so pounds in the back (sack(s)). One of my buddies has an early 90s SN and weights it along the lines I described; it's a great, well-shaped wake. I think it forms and rides best at around 22 mph and riding at 70 ft.
Rhode
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RE: fat sacs
do i have to put weight i nthe bow?..it gets kinda cramped in there. i was looking at either the prox "v-drive sacs"= adds up to 800 lbs+ each sac weighs 400) or the pro x side sacs ,weight =around 520 lbs=260 lbs each..i was just going to lay them on each side of the engine box.. will this work the way im trying to use them..other question, does the pump "pump" the water back into the lake to drain them?
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RE: fat sacs
First off, note that a pump works both ways...either you have it attached to nothing, submerged in the lake and sucking water into the sack...or, you have it attached to the sack and sucking it out. You're just moving the pump...that's all.
Regarding sacks, I gave you bad information this morning. I spoke with my buddy today and he is running 200-300 lbs. in the closed bow (steel elevator weights...only thing that will fit realistically) and a little more that 1,000 lbs. of weight in the back. Apparently, he's got about 400 lbs. of elevator weights under the back seat and is running about 600 lbs. in sacks (3) in front of the back seat and to the sides of the direct drive engine. Another thing to note here is that this set-up assumes about 350 lbs. of "rider" weight in front (driver and spotter).
Rhode
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RE: fat sacs
Also, careful when putting sacks on the side of the engine box as you need to be able to raise and lower it for all the obvious reasons. Let's be clear here, too, I am trying to tell you how to load this boat for maixmum wake potential. You may not want that and, more importantly. this will make your boat performly differently that less safe...especially if big rollers are a potential. Disclaimer over.
Rhode
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RE: fat sacs
You should also note that fatsacs mean a lot less room in the boat, so hopefully you have a tower and racks. I wish I had a picture of my 92 with a fat sofa, the 400# up front, four riders and boards and a cooler. Mostly you just sat amongs all the "stuff". This year I am ditching the water for some lead...should take up less room.Eric Fox
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RE: fat sacs
i have an extended pylon with the board racks...i figured if i went with the prox v-drive or side sacs, and put them next to the engibe box it wouldnt make that big of a difference.. it says you can walk on them!?. im only going to weight the boat down with those, nothing else..dont have the money or time to mess around with lead or weights...we use the boat for everything, so im just looking to get a bigger wake for when my buddies and i board.will adding these make a difference even> v drives add 800lbs..and the side sacs add 520.....
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1,000 Post Club Member
- Apr 2005
- 1407
- Discovery Bay, CA
- 2001 Super Air Nautique (Current) 1998 Ski Nautique (former) 1982 Ski Nautique (Current)
RE: fat sacs
Ryan,
You'll be fine. I have a friend who used to do raley's and two or three different
inverts, of a 91 Ski with no weight and no high pole. My point is if you're good, you're
good, and if you're not good, you probably don't need a world class wake anyway.
Start with what you've got and you'll soon find out what you want/need for your
own capabilities, and lifestyle. My $.02. BKH2001 Super Air
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