I have a 2002 Ski Nautique and was all set to buy a Hewitt 3000 cantilever lift from a neighbor. But today, I talked to a guy that sells and services lifts and he said he would never put an inboard ski boat on a cantilever lift. There is not a problem with water level fluctuation at our lake, but he said most people that have cantilever lifts hate them and end up upgrading to Vertical lifts. He also mentioned issues with the fins and propellor hitting the frame. What do you ski guys use and why?
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Senior Member of PLANETNAUTIQUE
- Jul 2004
- 511
- Holiday Lakes, OH
- Current: 2002 Ski Nautique Closed Bow Previous: 1990 Ski Nautique, 1987 Ski Nautique 2001
Thanks stock. I am leaning towards Vertical, but wanted the opinion of other trusted Nautique owners. I am thinking of ordering one online and assembling it myself.Ski on dude!
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Sunstream boat lifts are huge and they’re all hydraulic cantilever
Sent from my iPhone using PLT Nautique
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I started with a cantilever lift and now have a 3k RGC Vertical lift for my 196. It’s been a fantastic lift. I would only go back to a cantilever if it were hydraulic.Previous Boats:
99 MasterCraft SportStar(95-97 ProStar Hull)
98 Moomba Boomerang
88 MasterCraft Powerslot
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I have a hydraulic cantilever lift, and wish I had a vertical lift (even if it had to be cable). We bought the hydraulic cantilever lift used, so it was good value though. If I had to start from scratch though it'd be a vertical cable or vertical hydraulic. Sometimes I would prefer to not fully raise or fully lower the lift from time to time. Whether that be because people are loading/unloading, sitting under the shade of the canopy and watching others on the lake listening to our boat speakers, or just for other convenience factors. I do not feel that the cantilever lift is stable unless the boat is either raised all the way up or lowered all the way. I'm probably an outlier here, but just my preference.
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I have had both and personally I prefer the shoremaster hydraulic lift. A little more expensive at first but I think it looks much cleaner in a boathouse (no cables, and no grease to drip). As far as fins hitting the propellor and frame, well you can get bump stops for these lifts if you really need them. Maybe if you have windy conditions when docking often you'd need them, but I just know where I need to stop (rear tower legs even with boathouse poles) and bring the lift up slightly with the remote - to meet the hull as I'm pulling in to stop. Additionally, they aren't too big of a deal to move (imo). I take three plastic 55 gallon drums and strap them to the frame, and bingo, the lift floats right up and you can move it if you need to (just be sure to use quality sturdy straps and several, and tow slow, and near the shore). As an added bonus, since you are cantilevering the boat, you can position the lift far enough in your slip so that the bow is just over the nose of the dock, for easy access or even to be used as a table for serving alcoh..... I mean sodas...
I just pulled out the lift last year to go over everything, and replaced the hydraulic hoses, flushed and new fluid, and put in new pins, and the cylinders are still in excellent shape. (I have done this twice in the nearly 10 years I have owned the lift) I have a 2008 230 and I don't lift with ballast full but there is some lead in the boat... I have the 6000# lift. If I had the money and was buying new for a new house I would just get the 8000# just to be safe... I believe in trying to be overly cautious with weight limits.Last edited by shag; 05-31-2018, 07:13 PM.
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I had gotten rid of the cantilever lift I have a direct inboard and had too many hydraulic repairs after the lift was about 5 years old. also if the boat is not far enough forward on the lift the whole thing will tilt backward dumping the aft of the boat into water as the front legs lift out of the water. the cable takes longer to lift out of the water but I no longer have to deal with hydraulic leaks. I am happier with the cable type.
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