jjgag60- The only thing I drilled on the boat is what's pictured (nine holes in the fiberglass boat stereo 003 jpg). I made the wood template just so I could lay everything out evenly. You may not need to use a template but I wanted to see what it would look like before I started drilling holes in the boat. I didn't drill in the cushion of the seat if that's what you were thinking by my instructions. Sorry for the confusion, I am not the best at writing out what I am trying to say.
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Senior Member of PLANETNAUTIQUE
- Jul 2007
- 372
- Mercer, Pennsylvania
- 81 Ski Nautique when growing up 2007 SANTE 210 2008 SANTE 210
The fabric is there so you do not see the holes and it just have it a cleaner look.Current: 08 Super Air 210 Team
Previous: 07 Super Air 210 Team
Previous: 02 MC Pro Star 197
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Andy,
We've had lots of experience rehab'ing the Nautique factory systems and using most of what is there.
Your existing sub will do good things in a new box. The MOMO 10" is a Jekyll and Hyde in a sealed vs. ported box. In a sealed box it's anemic and in a ported box it's terrific. With a lot of woofers you won't see the vast difference that you'll see in this case.
Build a 3/4" thick box with exterior dimensions equaling two cubic feet. Use a slot with a surface area of 13 square inches and a length of 24 inches.
You must vent the locker. Check out this Nautique in our gallery as an example.
http://earmarkcaraudio.com/install_superAirNautique.asp
The white grille cloth method will also work, but you'll have to replace the cloth periodically as it discolors in front of the vent holes.
Bridge the Clarion 2-channel to the 4-ohm sub. Once the sub is in the right enclosure and the locker is vented the Clarion amp is plenty of power. The factory typically runs the bow MOMO's off the source unit. It's not enough for the MOMO's. Run the Clarion 4-channel to the six in-boat speakers with 2 channels to the bow and 2 channels to the four in the cockpit. Add a larger 2-channel amplifier to the tower speakers. I recommend the Alpine PDX2.150. It's highly efficient so when you're beached and only playing the tower speakers your play time will be much longer.
Make sure that each individual amplifier has the equivalent of 8-gauge service to the battery, at minimum. Run triple RCA's, front (all in-boat), rear (tower) and sub. You won't be disappointed.
David
Earmark MarineEarmark Marine[URL="http://www.earmarkmarine.com"]
www.earmarkmarine.com[/URL]
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David (Earmark) - this is great stuff, I appreciate your feedback and experience. Building a new box from a sheet of MDF is too easy and inexpensive not to try. I did some playing at http://www.reaudio.com/speaker_box/LPort_Box_Calc.html trying to get the volume/port size you advised. (although without yet measuring the boat) Tomorrow I'll get out there and measure up the space in the compartment and see what's possible, then feed back the some more preferred dimensions through the calculator.
On the vents - those look like a pretty impressive solution. I assume those are custom made? Is that something that can be ordered? I guess I would be worried about cutting that much out of the passthrough of a 210, since it doesn't have the removable panel that a 220 does, but I'm definitely sold on venting, have to do it somehow. Sweet job! Obviously your firm does excellent work.
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AndyRay, we appreciate the kind words.
Yes, you can order a white King StarBoard slotted vent. It's 3/4" thick so it will add rigidity to the side of the console. The 210 version would be different than the 220 version. You might also be able to place a vent under the seat instead. I can walk you through how to safely cut the gelcoat and how to dress the edge. PM me when you get to that point.
David E.M.Earmark Marine[URL="http://www.earmarkmarine.com"]
www.earmarkmarine.com[/URL]
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SS,
The W7 is the ultimate sub inside a vehicle where the closed cabin favors low frequency production. But the W7 is not real sensitive. Bass dissipates quickly in a boat. Even with the port locker vented it's a challenge to get the pressure pushed and pulled out of the locker. The large displacement of the locker and connected coaming cavities serves as a large acoustic spring which consumes much of the sub's energy. Combine all this in an open-field environment and you really need the extra leverage of a ported enclosure.
If box size is a major consideration then a 10" ported might be preferrable to a 12" sealed in this particular application. A 12W7 needs 750 to 1000 honest watts. If you don't have that power then a lesser but more sensitive woofer will perform better, for example a 12W6 with an honest 500 watts. Or, a 12W3 with 250 watts. In order to get a faithful bass maker, rather than a boat shaker without much tonal construction, it's important that the vent for the port side locker is large enough to approximate the woofer's surface area.
In contrast, if your woofer is located under the driver's helm console and is side-firing into a compact cavity, and therefore a more rigid airmass, then a sealed enclosure would be optimum.
The right way to go varies by application; the boat, sub location and how it loads or vents, the available power balanced with the sub, etc.
Hope this helps. PM me if you need more specifics.
David E.M.Earmark Marine[URL="http://www.earmarkmarine.com"]
www.earmarkmarine.com[/URL]
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EM, if it were your boat, what would you choose. A 12W6 with 600 PDX watts or a 12W7 with 1000 PDX watts, assuming both are ported. Is a W7 honestly too much for the tiny locker area? Not that there is anything wrong with my current 15 (other than age), but i've got a W3 stealthbox in my suv and it sounds amazing. I can only assume the W6&7 are even better.
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Earmark is correct. The W7's sound real good but only if you give them enough power.
Otherwise use the W6. If you decide to go with the W7 Im not sure the PDX 1000 has enough power to bounce a W7. I havent heard a PDX 1000 hooked to a W7 but friends tell me they were not impressed. One last thing make sure you have enough battery power to push what ever you end up with.
Earmark: I has seen some of your work its real nice. keep up the good work
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wet sounds xxx is a marine w7 in sound quality and stuff. i say unless you're not building a big system or going on the cheap, just do wet sounds all around. im biased, but only cause its the most efficient and best sounding stuff for a wakeboard boat
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Earmark or Grant:
I have a 1999 Super Sport and was planning on adding a sub at the drivers feet. I think I can get enough space to build a sealed enclosure for a 12W7. It could fire against the starboard side or directly facing toward the driver. I have a JL 500/1. Is this the best sub/box combo or do you have another suggestion. I would like to keep as stock looking as possible. So fitting the sub in the space already behind the kick panel or cutting a hole for the 12" or 10" to fire toward the driver.
Andyray: I have an extra JL 500/1 new in the box purchased from my local authorized dealer that I am not going to use if you interested. Just PM me. I purchased two and I am only going to use one.
Both of you do incredible work. Thanks for posting on the site.1999 Super Sport Nautique
PerfectPass Wakeboard Pro
100amp Alternator Upgrade and 2 - Optima Blue Tops
Wetsounds, JL Audio, Alpine sound system
3-Jabsco Ballast Puppies
1- Fly High Center Sack 650lbs and 2 - Fly High Rear 750lbs
Ballast Install - http://planetnautique.com/vb3/showth...allast-Install
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