Light Bar Install?

[wakeman777]

Ok here's the scoop. Took boat to Local Dealer in OK. and had them install my Krypt 5-light bar(75 watt lights), on my 06 SAN TE w/the Flight Control Tower.
1. Wanted bar wired to Courtesy light switch.
2. Wanted all wires hidden.
This is what I ended up with. Also with no call to me before I picked it up.
1. Light bar wired to a Toggle switch in the driver side cubby. Per dealer the
courtesy switch couldn't handle the watts from light bar...
2. Wires were exposed all over. From light bar through tubing then out from where
it disconnects from base(to be able to fold down) then back in to base, out
close to the front driver side and through the fiberglass and to the toggle switch.
Yes i said through the fiberglass(they drilled a freakin hole and ran the wires
through it and left it that way). Again with no call to the boat owner!!!!!
Now my question is how is everyone else out there with a light bar have it wired. The dealer currently has the boat and is seeing what they can do.
My goal is to have to dealer pay to fix hole in boat and re-wire.
I will most-likley rewire myself because they do not give a crap about my 54k boat since they drilled a hole in it without telling me.
Suggestions??

[kevfran99]

RE: Light Bar Install?

sounds to me like you have it handled! don't pick up the boat or even pay them till they get it right. sounds like they really half assed it to me. Or tell them to just fix the hole correctly and then pick it up and still don't pay! GL

[crowland]

Re: Light Bar Install?

I have an 8 light set up with 2 pairs of the 4 titan light bars. They were installed exactly like you wanted it done on your boat. Very easy to do....so dont know how or even why they would need to drill holes in the fiberglass. I believe there are 4 holes total on my tower for the lights. I have a hole for the wires on the lower tower leg and the wires are exposed to run through to the upper leg. Then there are 2 holes on top of the tower to run through to each set of lights. At the lower leg the wiring is run through the front tower leg down to the control module and all tied into a switch. I also have a toggle switch that was installed on the dash due to the wattage issue. I attached a pic if you zoom in on the driver side you can see how can barely see the wiring lower to upper tube.

The only reasoning I can see for the sloppy work would be if you have a sub or other equipment that would prevent them from accessing the front tower legs for wiring. In my opinion from what you are saying this situation sounds unacceptable, definitely sounds like some corners were cut. Has the dealer installed lights before?? I would look the dealer in the face and ask his opinion of the install, would this install be okay on his new boat?? I dont think any legit nautique dealer would stand by a shotty job like youve described. I hope they dont do your regular maintenance, after that experience I would have second thoughts even allowing them to look in the engine compartment.

Hopefully they will make things right for you!!

[i_am_am]

RE: Re: Light Bar Install?

You might want to make sure the daeler can wire correctly. 5 lights @ 75 watts each = 6.25 amps x 5 = 31.25 amps....thats too much for a single switch. It needs a relay to carry that much load. The courtesy light switch would work perfect to control a relay. I have 4- 50 watt lights front, and 4 to the rear. I have a relay for the front and one for the rear. Be careful. The switch would probably overheat.

[EarmarkMarine]

1_am_am, that's a good point. Glad you brought that up. Most courtesy light switches are only rated at 15 amps! Installers don't realize how hot concealed wires and connectors can get.

We follow a few basics as applied to halogen light bars. Every procedure is intended to reduce resistance, minimize heat and protect the boat.

* No more than 3 heavy duty lamps per 14/2 tower harness. Use 14/4 for 5-lights with separate front and rear circuits.

* No more than 2 lamps per 30 amp relay and no more than 3 lamps per 40 amp relay. Keep in mind that relays are normally rated for short term use like a horn.

* 8-gauge service from relays/sockets to battery direct with the use of heavy gauge lugs and fused at the battery. Strictly soldered and heatshrunk. Absolutely no crimps.

Hope this helps,

David E.M.

[Sinkoumn]

What size wire is everyone running from their relay to the lights (both the pos and ground, especially for the Titan style Pilots (i think they're 55w each)? I have a three front facing and three back facing setup; I have it wired to either light up just the front three with the switch in the up position, or to run all six with the 3position switch in the down position and just wanted to make sure that the wiring isn't under or over the correct size needed coming from the relay.

[i_am_am]

Iam using 2 switches. 1 for the front lights and 1 for the rear lights. I ran 3-10 ga wires. 1 for ground, 1 for front +, 1 for rear +. I figured I would rarly use front and rear lights at the same time since this is ALOT of current (alt cannot keep up). I figured 10 ga would give enough amps in case I wanted to add acouple of extra lights (4 is enough front/rear). This works great and nothing gets hot. It is alot of wiring in the old style FCT. I ran several extra small 14ga wires with it for future. U might want to figure wire size for the lights your using now and if you want to add some for the future. watts divided by volts = amps....14 into 55=3.9(4) amps a light x 6=24 amps. I have chart at work that lists wire sizes and current capacities. I just can't remember everything!!! I think that would be at the line of using 12/10 ga wires.