where to ground amps

[Mikeski]

Think of the batteries of the system as the source. They connect to the boat's electrical system only to receive the charge. They drive the entire stereo system, even the deck (yes, deck power and ground need to be changed when you add amplifiers). If you connect one component to the boat's wiring harness and another to your stereo power block running directly from the batteries you will get noise.

I suggest this power/ground distribution block: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_211CBR4...S.html?tp=3001 It's not cheap but it is worth the money.

Run 1/0 wire from the battery to the dist block to avoid voltage drop. Run #4-8 wire to your amps depending on their wattage. Equal size power and ground wires. I prefer to use pre-tinned marine rated power wire (www.genuinedealz.com). Run minimum #14 finely stranded speaker wires, #10 to the subwoofer.

Attached is my suggestion for connecting the dedicated battery bank to the boats charging system.

[jaybird]

Duel Battery Grounds

Chexi,

Bond the grounds, the isolator only need control the positive. If you have different grounds you will have problems, it would take pages to explain.

[Chexi]

RE: Duel Battery Grounds

Thank you Jaybird and Mikeski. I have gone over your respective wiring diagrams. I have also reviewed the wiring diagram that came with the Blue Seas Isolater / Combiner package. The diagram is very much like Jaybird's diagram, but with the addition of the manual switch combiner. I believe I understand almost everything on that diagram, except 2 things, which I will get into later. I drew up my own diagram as it would be in my boat (without a WS420 in the mix) and will post later today. It seems like it requires a ton of wires and in line fuses. When I post it, I welcome your comments, corrections, ideas, etc.

But first, I have 2 questions.

1. It looks like there is some sort of grounding block in the diagram. Is that an actual item? Is the grounding block then grounded to the engine block (or to the same point that the engine ground is grounded)? In the diagram both that 4 post block and the engine are grounded, but apparently to separate points. However, this might just be my inability to read a wiring diagram. If the grounding block is an actual device, any recommendations for a good one? It would probably save me a lot of wire to be able to combine some of the grounds and then run 1 ground for the combined grounds to the engine block ground.

2. I do not understand the key-start. It looks like there are 2 switches. 1 is between the cranking battery and the starter (presumably the switch is the key and is wired in the console). But a second appears via dotted line between the relay (middle) and the cranking battery. Is this optional? What is the purpose of this? What would I wire it to?

[jaybird]

Ground

Chexi,

The grounding block is just representative that all the grounds need to be bonded. You don’t have to add one. The same thing can be accomplished by connecting a wire from the ground of one battery to the other, just be sure it is of sufficient size. The engine is already grounded to the primary battery so when you ground each battery to the other the engine is also bonded..

The schematic is a charging relay from Blue Seas. The ignition switch is just included in the circle to show the starter isolation wire which is dotted and optional. The Blue Seas has a terminal for a signal wire that would open the relay while starting. This opens the relay so only one battery (starter battery) is used during starting preventing voltage spikes to the accessories battery while the starter is engaged that could damage sensitive electronic equipment, it is only an option. The other dotted line is just an optional indicator light that indicates when the relay is closed. The two switches without the circle represent a battery switch not a keyed ignition.
Just follow the instructions with your Blue Seas kit and be sure your wires are sized to carry the loads.

[Chexi]

RE: Ground

Thank you very much Jaybird. Your 2 paragraphs have given me way more information than the directions that came with my kit. They were scant at best. Do you use the battery switches in the diagram? I would think them to be unnecessary, as the audio system has its own kill switch via the remote line to the head unit. The cranking battery has the ignition switch. Putting in additional switches seems a bit redundant, although I guess it assures you of a way to kill battery power to the engine and audio if for some reason the ignition switch and/or the remote switch are screwed up.

[jaybird]

Battery switch

Chexi,

A battery switch disconnects the battery entirely, your ignition switch does not disconnect your battery, it only stops power to the ignition circuit. A battery switch or sometimes call battery isolator completely disconnects the large battery cable positive. If you are putting in a Blue Seas kit your switch will have one "OFF" position that will allow you to do this for the extra battery. It’s not required on your main starter battery, only an option.

[jaybird]

RE: Battery switch

next

[jaybird]

RE: Battery switch

Chexi,

How do you plan to make your battery cables? This can be challanging without the correct crimping tools.

[Chexi]

RE: Battery switch

Ah I see. Your diagram just has the little switch notation. Mine has the actual switch wiring blown up too. So yes, I will have that same switch you have and it will be able to shut power completely off for both the audio/house line and the engine. Sweet.

I have a cheap crimping tool, but it will not be good enough to cut and crimp low gauge wire. I'll either have genuinedealz.com make the cables, or better yet, buy a tool. Are the better crimping tools also able to cut really low gauge wires, or do you need a separate cutter? Any links to good tools are always welcome. My general rule is, "if it is possible for me to do and all I need to do is buy some good tools, I would rather do it myself and in the process pick up some good tools so I can do it again and again and again than pay someone else the same or more to do it once."

[jaybird]

RE: Battery switch

Depending on what your doing yo will be using from #4 to 2/0 wire. Tools are made to crip heavy gauge wire but they will not work for lighter gauge wires and they are expensive. I believe what you see in my photo is 1/0 wire. You will need to order the correct ends for each size wire for a good connection.

[Chexi]

RE: Battery switch

It looks like a good crimper is north of $200. Maybe I'll just have Geniunedealz.com make them for me. I think they only charge $1.00 per cable for service fee.

Edit. $1 per end on which you have a connector put.

[jaybird]

RE: Battery switch

Yea I knew they were high.

[Chexi]

RE: Battery switch

Okay, here is the wiring diagram I have prepared.

Jaybird, I noticed that in your setup, you have the combiner switch wired directly to the relay. This is not how the Blue Seas diagram I have shows it. Their wiring diagram has it like my picture. However, maybe I am thinking about this too simplistically. Maybe the order of what connects to where is not important, so long as the reds that are supposed to be together are together.

[Chexi]

RE: Battery switch

Here is my Blue Seas diagram.

[jaybird]

Its only a schematic

Chexi,

What you are doing is exactly copying the Blue Seas schematic and that’s OK, if you do not have the electrical knowledge that’s probably best. You are totally caught up in the line drawing, given an electrical education you would understand it is a schematic. Look how I have changed the schematic, both function exactly the same. Positive for the starter battery is positive regardless of where you pick it up. The best way is always the shortest run. You’re a bit to caught up in the drawings. The same schematic could be drawn a dozen ways but the end result is the same. If you don’t understand this, that’s OK, many don't. I have made a many schematic and had an electrical technician try and do exactly what you are doing. You will either grasp this concept or you won't, Just do what you understand.