where to ground amps

[jaybird]

Chexi,

Your layout looks fine. Like I said , many different routing options can be used.

Good Luck.

Here is my AMP dis. block. Same as your layout.

[Chexi]

Cool. Thank you so much Jaybird. I really do want to understand this stuff. Many years ago, I had 2 paths in front of me. The first was to go into engineering. The second was to go in liberal arts and then on to law school. I chose the latter, but I have remained interested in the former. I still love taking stuff apart and learning how it works... really understanding how it works. I assemble computers in my spare time, learned how to build retaining walls and build a patio last year, and now I'm working on restoring and upgrading many facets of my nautique. DC audio wiring is something I have never tackled before, so I have a lot to learn. I have been reading the bcae website a little bit each night. That, coupled with your and Mikeski's help, has proven invaluable on this journey.

Oh, and I agree... shorter runs are better. Less voltage loss and less expensive. I'm going to rethink my layout now that I have learned to stop thinking so linearly and see how I can make the layout more efficient. Thanks again.

[jaybird]

Chexi,

No problem, I do electrcial design for a living so it just second nature. Knowledge is always relative, put me in a court room, discuss tax law or ask me how to spell and I'm an idiot. We all have our pit falls. Yellow_Flash_Colorz:

[jaybird]

By the way, I think you chose the better path...... If I had it to do over again I might pick law, sales, or medical. Engineeing is so high pressure, burn out is common.

[Chexi]

Okay, Jaybird... 1 last one for you. I think I might finally understand enough to do this right (and minimize the runs). I have simplified the wiring diagram quite a bit to what I think is the minimum number of wires possible. The only thing that I question is whether I am okay with only the 1 power run from the Deep Cycle batteries. Can power flow in both directions on this 1 line? By that I mean, can power flow from the battery to the amp through this line while power also flows through the alternator back to the battery? As a practical matter, I don't think power would need to flow both directions simultaneously. If the alternator has enough juice to power the starting battery and the amps, no deep cycle power should be needed. The deep cycles would only be needed to power the amps when the engine is off, in which case the alternator would not be powering anything. But maybe I am missing something. These lines are going to be 1/0 AWG, and for marine tinned wire, that's like almost $5 per foot, so the fewer of these runs... the better. I think this might be your setup.

[jaybird]

Chexi,

Looks good, just be sure the wire to your starter is larger than 1/0. You will need 2/0 to the starter and also from the starter battery to the battery switch.

I hope I didn’t confuse you with my photos. While I did use the same kit I do not utilize it the same as the Blue Sea schematic. My switch does not disconnect the starter battery from the starter. I changed my layout to eliminate a long run with 2/0. The only down side of what I did is the starter battery remains connected when the switch is off. It does kill power form my secondary battery to the amps but thats all. The reason is I have my starter battery in the back of the boat and my secondary battery in the front. I only ran #2 wire to carry 100 amps between my primary and secondary battery, which takes care of the alternator current.

DC current never flows in two directions, not sure what you are asking there. The combiner relay or charging relay will close to send current to the amps and deep cycle battery’s when a charge is available. That’s a bit difficult to explain. If your amps are pulling more than the alternator can put out then the charging relay will open and only charge the starter battery. When voltage on that side reaches a threshold preset in the charging relay it will close and charge the deep cycle battery’s. If the amps are drawing current form the alternator and the starting battery the starter battery will drop below the threshold and the relay will open to prevent excess draw on the starter battery.

I hope that makes some sense. In short power for you amps will come from the highest potential. It is a dynamic situation and constantly changing depending on power required and power available.

Read more at bcae1.com under Charging System Basics.

[Cam003]

Think of the batteries of the system as the source. They connect to the boat's electrical system only to receive the charge. They drive the entire stereo system, even the deck (yes, deck power and ground need to be changed when you add amplifiers). If you connect one component to the boat's wiring harness and another to your stereo power block running directly from the batteries you will get noise.

I suggest this power/ground distribution block: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_211CBR4...S.html?tp=3001 It's not cheap but it is worth the money.

Run 1/0 wire from the battery to the dist block to avoid voltage drop. Run #4-8 wire to your amps depending on their wattage. Equal size power and ground wires. I prefer to use pre-tinned marine rated power wire (www.genuinedealz.com). Run minimum #14 finely stranded speaker wires, #10 to the subwoofer.

Attached is my suggestion for connecting the dedicated battery bank to the boats charging system.

So i understand the bonding and the power from the same source as all the other components, but Where do you get your 12v switched lead for the deck from? how can you create that without using the boats wire harness?

I belive this may be my missing piece to my puzzle of noise.

thanks in advance