fuses/power wire

**vr6mole** · 03-26-2009, 02:34 PM

RE: fuses/power wire

Normally you want to fuse within 16 inches of the battery so there is no need to after the distro block.

For the amp remote turn on wires you can just run a remote from the headunit to the first amp and then another wire from the first amp to the 2nd amp.

**gride300** · 03-26-2009, 03:06 PM

RE: fuses/power wire

from what i've seen dist. blocks are where it's at with more than one amplifer and it makes adding another one in the future alot easier. i.e. a dedicated sub amp or what have you.

**crowland** · 03-26-2009, 03:38 PM

Re: RE: fuses/power wire

Originally posted by gride300

from what i've seen dist. blocks are where it's at with more than one amplifer and it makes adding another one in the future alot easier. i.e. a dedicated sub amp or what have you.

Keep in mind your limiting factor is going to be on the gauging of the wire you use if you are adding amps - that distro block is your bottle neck - If you hook up an extra amp and dont upgrade your wire between the battery and block you are going to be limiting power to your amps as they all try to share the same current.

Here is what i will be using -

http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDe...prodID=KBT-30P

**skiking** · 03-26-2009, 05:13 PM

RE: Re: RE: fuses/power wire

Gride300: Fuses on the power lines are not for the amps, but for protection of the power wire from shorting and catching fire. You always fuse based on gauge of the wire.

So for instance, you are running 4 gauge wire from the battery. Specs call for no larger than a 125 amp fuse. You can go smaller, but you should not go bigger. If you go smaller, say a 100 amp fuse on your 4 gauge line and your amps pull more, the fuse will blow and you will be replacing it. If your amps do not draw more than you are fine.

Using a distribution block greatly helps moving power to multiple amps from a single large line. I feel it is always more simple to drag one big line to a fused distribution block and then to your amps. So you are on the right track there.

In my opinion, you should always fuse on each new gauge of line. So as you move to your 8 gauge line, specs call for no larger than a 50 amp fuse. So if your running multiple amps that are going to draw more than 50amps per amp and more than 125amps as a whole. You need to move up to larger gauge primary and secondary wires.

Remember, fusing is for the wire protection and not the amps. You don't want a short and a fire on a boat because a large gauge wire grounded out and starts a fire instead of blowing a fuse. That is why the closer the fuse is to the beginning of each wire run the better. Anything in front of the fuse is unprotected.

Here is a great site for basics. It can help you come close to your amp draw and what lines you will need. Go to fuses and it will outline what I have told you along with recommended max fuse size for gauges of wire.

http://www.bcae1.com/

**gride300** · 03-26-2009, 10:22 PM

RE: Re: RE: fuses/power wire

i was doing some reading and was curious about the alternator ground cable. does this need to be changed to a bigger wire? right now i want to use all jl stuff. like i said earlier
1. 4 ga power/ground wire
2. 100amp blade fuse w/n 16" of battery
3.jl dist. block (4ga into 8ga)
4. a 50 amp fuse on each 8 ga to amp close to amps
what else will i need as far as ring terminals or anything. im ready to get started. and want to do it right.

**gride300** · 03-27-2009, 10:56 AM

RE: Re: RE: fuses/power wire

bump

**TravisFling** · 03-27-2009, 11:56 AM

RE: Re: RE: fuses/power wire

GRIDE300 - I would use a cylinder fuse in an encapsulated module at the battery, for no other reason that it's how I've always done it and they're easier to see if it's blown. I would put it as close the battery as possible, like within 4-6 inches if you can. You'll need a posi and neg ring terminal for the 4 guage at the battery, and other than that you shouldn't need any more, as the wires will come directly into the distro and out to the amps, which shouldn't require rings. you'll need another cylinder fuse after the distro's for both wires. You can certainly jump the remote on wire from the headunit to amp1 and then to amp2.
The only question you have with the extra fuses is IF the 8 guage wire grounds will it be enough to bang the 100 amp fuse next to the battery. If you don't think so then add fuses after the distro. If so then the single fuse at the battery covers that. You only need the fuse on the positive wire. The whole point is protecting that wire and any wire "north" of the fuse (towards the battery) is unprotected, so that's why I'm reco-ing a fuse as close as possible to the battery. Protect the most line you can.

**TravisFling** · 03-27-2009, 12:00 PM

RE: Re: RE: fuses/power wire

I don't think you need to change the alternator ground wire to a bigger wire, though, by the way.
so, in order, you want to cut end of 8 guage pos and neg and install into amps. cut other end 8 guage and install to distro, then cut ONE end of the four guage pos and neg and install into distro. Mount amps, mount distro. Run 12v from headunit to amp one, and then to amp 2. Cut ends of 4 gauge on the battery side and install ring terminals. Connect speakers to amps. install ring terminals on batteries and fire it up. tune amps, enjoy music. I heat shrink all my speaker connections, too.

**AuMDLST** · 03-27-2009, 08:06 PM

RE: Re: RE: fuses/power wire

http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_c....php?cat_id=13

Use either the two way or four way distribution block (four way for future amps)
Get the fuse adapters on the same page (no need for short wire to fuse then wire to amp - these connect directly to dist. block)

http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_c....php?cat_id=11

Use the large fuse block on this page (allows a range of wire size - possible future upgrades if original installed wire is inadequate)
within 18" of battery.

You will need to run a ground using the same wire size from battery to a second dist block - and same wire to amps from dist block (no fuses though)
You need a ring terminal for the power and the ground wire (use the correct crimp tool or you will have a bad termination)

You can skip the ring terminals with two of these (one for power and one for ground) use the extra terminal locations for the existing wires on the battery eliminating
their ring terminal.

http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_c....php?cat_id=10

Pictures when done or even as you progress with the project.

**gride300** · 03-27-2009, 08:22 PM

RE: Re: RE: fuses/power wire

i should be able to get to work in a week or so. he has it getting maintenance work right now so as soon as he gets it back i'im gonna get on it. so i do the exact same thing for the ground(4ga into 8ga) just no fuses? i appreciate all the help and will post b4 and after pics.

**AuMDLST** · 03-27-2009, 08:28 PM

RE: Re: RE: fuses/power wire

Ground needs to be same size as power. Is this a CC? You should consider the routing of the wire - As in how you are going to attach/get from the battery to the amps. The factory wire harnesses in the CC's are attached using ty-raps to a sticky back type device - they are not strong enough (adhesion to hull) to carry the extra weight of the new power and ground. You may want to epoxy some new attachment pieces under the gunwale.

**TravisFling** · 03-30-2009, 10:42 AM

RE: Re: RE: fuses/power wire

Yep - P-clips work very well for this application.

**gride300** · 03-30-2009, 04:49 PM

RE: Re: RE: fuses/power wire

well i just ordered 2 tsunami dist. blocks, a 150amp breaker, 4awg power/ground, 8awg power/ground, ring terminals, and 18awg turn on wire. should i get some heat shrink to put around the terminals? will walmart or lowes have butt connects for the turn on lead? EarMark helped me simplify the setup a little and are always great to do business with anytime.

**gride300** · 03-30-2009, 05:01 PM

RE: Re: RE: fuses/power wire

and i got the pn discount

fuses/power wire

fuses/power wire

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