Amp power supply question

[bcorcoran]

I am starting over on the stero in my '08 210 and need some help on powering the amps. My question is whether to run the power supply directly from the positive terminal of the battery or from the common output of the factory battery switch? I have seen people do it both ways. I plan on running two feeds with a 150A breakers inline on each to distribution blocks to power the amps. Suggestions?

[EarmarkMarine]

When you have a Perko switch nothing goes directly to the batteries except a float switch/bilge pump when applicable.

There may be different schemes with ACR/VSRs but there is only one right way to use a dual battery Perko switch that's stand alone. Everything goes to the common lug.

David
Earmark Marine

[TravisFling]

Switch

Dave - otherwise it would defeat the purpose of the switch itself, correct?

[EarmarkMarine]

Travis,

Yes, but there are numerous other reasons to stay with this simple scheme.

Sometimes a source unit remains on the helm buss/factory harness which is left on the starting bank while the amplifiers may be connected to the other bank. Any voltage differential seeks to level itself by circumventing the isolation and through the connecting RCA ground shields. This creates noise and can damage the fragile preout and amp input sections in time.

The above is just one of a few scenarios that create problems. Its just too easy to do it the right way and there is only one right way for this particular set-up.

David
Earmark Marine

[93nautique0710]

Travis,

Yes, but there are numerous other reasons to stay with this simple scheme.

Sometimes a source unit remains on the helm buss/factory harness which is left on the starting bank while the amplifiers may be connected to the other bank. Any voltage differential seeks to level itself by circumventing the isolation and through the connecting RCA ground shields. This creates noise and can damage the fragile preout and amp input sections in time.

The above is just one of a few scenarios that create problems. Its just too easy to do it the right way and there is only one right way for this particular set-up.

David
Earmark Marine

I recommend installing a capacitor and running lead straight to battery and capacitor has to be charged when connected so dont put on a on off switch

[bcorcoran]

My thought was that theoretically if the amps had power directly from the battery and the remote turn on was from a wetsounds w420 i am installing powered from the same source as the head unit, which is connected to a switch then the amps shouldnt turn on and draw down power from the battery when the system was off. That does however assume there is not any draw from the amps when turned off.
After some more research I am now thinking about purchasing a battery isolater with one battery supplying the start and the other to power the balance of the electronics in the boat with the positive leads connected to individual switches, whereby one would return back the the starter and the factor switch would remain to power the accessories and connect the two 0 gauge amp feeds to the common out of that switch.
Any other suggestions?