XMD3 Replacement Options

[keukawake]

Another stereo question. I have searched and was surprised to not find anything (here and Google).

I have just ordered a 2005 210 team. I am considering deleting the XMD3 HU, in favor of a better unit (better sound shaping, MP3/WMA, etc).

Most sources suggest that this HU is a double DIN. The large face would also point to this.

I have seen it listed as a single DIN though as well. The manual states that the dimensions are 7" (w) x 2" (h) x 6" (d).

(Page 17 on the link below
http://www.planetnautique.com/Correc...s/Clarion2.pdf

2" tall tells me that it is singe DIN (1½DIN=3", DoubleDIN=4"), perhaps with a larger face??

Has anyone replaced their XMD3 with an aftermarket HU? Is it as simple as a car, pull sleeve out, install new HU, slide sleeve back in? What does the mounting area look like with the aftermarket HU in? Are there any gaps, etc?

Someone has to have done this with a recent boat. I want to figure this out soon, so I can try to save some money. Thanks for your help!!!

[awake4air]

I did the same thing you are thinking about doing with an Alpine head unit. After becoming anoyed with the look of it after a few months, I decided to put my xmd3 back in.

The hole is the same size as a normal head unit. The face on the clarion is just bigger. When you pull it out, it leaves a void on each side of the head unit and looks ugly. You can always dress it up with some carbon fiber or fiberglass, but I just didn't feel like making anything at the time.

On the back of the xmd3/xmd1 there is a metal plate that the face is skrewed onto. I had to reuse that plate to secure the new head unit. The plate looks ugly and it has 4 exposed screws that are there to hold the plate to the panel.

If I were you, I'd take the stereo off yourself and have a look. It's really easy to do and put back if you want. On the XMD3 there are two plastic pieces on each side of the face. Pry those pieces off to expose the screws and remove the unit. There is probably also a bolt on the back holding the unit to the rail that will also need to be removed.

[keukawake]

Thanks for your comments, unfortunatly I cannot take a look as I don't have the boat yet!! It will not be here until Feb/March '05. I don't suppose you took pictures did you?? If I decide to go this route, I plan on not having the XMD3 installed at all. I wonder if the factory would leave the hole smaller? Probably not.

Has anyone done this and fixed the cosmetic issue??

[awake4air]

I didn't take any pictures. Sorry. I was going to create a fiberglass plate to fix the cosmetic problem, but I just settled on the clarion. It shouldn't be too hard to do it yourself.

[keukawake]

I am really amazed that so few (only one reply) have replaced their XMD3!! No one has been limited by its lack of pre-amp outputs, preamp voltage, inability to play MP3 CDs, elementary sound shaping (EQ, X-over, etc)? I guess I am just really surprised.

If you have replaced the XMD3, please give me some info on how you dealt with the cosmetic issue described above, and any other comments (and especially pictures!!). I would really like to put a different HU in, and am running out of time to have the factory not build it in (will be built in Jan/Feb).

Thanks for any help!!!

[clubmyke]

pics from the clubhouse...

Keukawake...here are some pics of the deck install from the clubhouse..still in the process of the install..

i have to agree with you on the head unit...a little behind the times...but is does have the wired remote..

went with the balanced eclipse (6 sets of pre-outs @ 8v or 3 sets @ 16v balanced) with crossover and time delay..

when the clarion was pulled, the hole was only a little bigger than the eclipse sleve by 1/2 " all the way around ( the clarion face is facade- the unit is not that big)

had the hole cut out a little larger and added a enclosed JBL SEAGIM3 Waterproof Enclosure WC400 (totally encloses the unit.) the back of the enclosure was placed on the other side.. pretty clean install

i am have a custom pod built for the eclipse ir remote that will be used with a pac ir extender- this will repalce the chrome piece tht held the clarion remote.. (all i am waiting on is the dash fabric from nautique)

hope that helps..

mike

[keukawake]

RE: pics from the clubhouse...

clubmyke, thanks, this is exactly what I have been looking for! I hope you will post with your results when you are done. I am very interested in hearing how this works out for you. Thanks again for the info/pics.

[clubmyke]

RE: pics from the clubhouse...

will do...

i have the deck,speakers and amps installed and tempory sub box(from car)...will be working on custom enclosures for the subs ( subs in a boat is harder that i thought ( havent decieded yet may go 2-12's and 2-10's)..also i might change out the jl amps for zapcos ( i run zapco in my car- the zapcos are a smaller and lighter amp and will allow for more room).

what are your plans for subs in your 210 ?

[keukawake]

RE: pics from the clubhouse...

I am not building anything huge. I would like to go with:

Alpine 9833 HU
Clarion 4 x 80 for the cabin
some cheapo 2 channel (or even the HU output bridged; 9833 claims to be 26W RMS x4) for bow
Probably another cheapo sub amp at around 300-500W
Stock Polk/MOMO 6½"
Either 2 10" or 1 12" sub in clamshell
Probably get XM or Sirius reciever for HU

Will wire stock remote to Alpine IR remote if possible and run to glove.

A lot of this depends on how much, if any, credit I get for not having full stereo installed at factory.

I could also wimp out and just add a little at a time to stock set-up, but it is winter and I have big dreams!!! It is tough not having the boat yet, it makes visualizations difficult; which is why I very much appreciate your comments and pictures!!

[clubmyke]

hope this helps...

rewird the whole boat..went with 0 ga +/- and shotgunned all the speaker wire with soldered spades..

here are some pics...please keep in mind.. i am not done....

the speaker grills are tempory(final will be epoxy coated white- this is a bummer.. i like these grills but they dont fit in the bow area)
the changer mount will be changed after the sub is placed.
the last piece that will be made is the amp board and the wire fully dressed..

the 210 is better for sub placement than the 211...you are very fortunate...

good luck

mike

[brit_rider]

wow! nice looking system. so what kind of Amps are you drawing on that? I'm guessing you are working with 3-4 batteries?

[clubmyke]

britrider,

Thanks... it is getting there.

i am using 2 blue top optima's and a perko switch..

btw, do you have DLS amps in the UK ? i heard they are very, very, very good ( 3 "very"= state of the art) also the legendary Denon DCT Z1 head unit????

went with 3-jl 300/4 running bridged mode for the separtes and jl 500/1 for the subs.. might switch the 3 jls's to 3 zapco reference 350's because of the smaller size...

i think the system is at its limit and wont need altenator upgrade. the 300/4's dont get pushed that hard. however the 500/1 on the subs will pushed..