Setting crossovers

[TX-Foilhead]

Finally got everything in and I've been playing with tuning. Evrything is JL 75watts to the 7.7 in boats and 500 to a 13tw5 under the dash firing forward. Sounds very good, but I can't seem to make up my mind and leave it alone.

3 of the inboats are in boxes that are a bit small, but they play pretty level down close to 60hz, the one by the driver is in a small cup I got from Earmark and is noticeably brighter and plays at the drivers shoulder more or less. If I bring the crossovers up into the high 80's the briteness goes away, but then you can pinpoint where the sub is from all seats but the drivers seat. If I lower the crossovers below 80 the sub disappears, but then there is a speaker that sounds different from the rest. Any ideas which way to go?

I have front and rear crossovers available, I can change the cutoff slope on the sub from 12 to 24db / octave, and I can probably stuff about 1/4 lb of polyfil behind the bright speaker. There is no room to add the bigger box because of the throttle cables.

[jjackkrash]

Sorry, no tuning advice, but David suggested a very similar setup for the inboats on my boat, but a little different setup for the sub. Do you have any pics of the install or the finished product? I would love to see it.

Jack

[TX-Foilhead]

Check your PM's

[Cam003]

post some pics i would love to see the sub install, i am thinking of ditching my dual 10's in the cooler box for a front firing TW5 as well.

[TX-Foilhead]

No pics, nothing to see that was the whole idea. The box is just 20in tall and 5 1/2 in deep with a little angle to one side to follow the hull. It's slightly under JL spec of .8 ft^3. I measured wrong and hit the air intake under the dash so I cut out a spot 2 x 2 on the woofer side and covered it with felt and fiberglass using epoxy resin. To make up for the small amount of space I lost I went ahead and stuffed it with about a half pound of polyfil. Running some sine waves it seems to drop off about 26hz, but it's still making some noise at 11hz (tried that for grins just to see). It sits all the way to the infamous hump and bolt the wall panel to it. I need to make a new one to adjust the heater holes about a half inch to the side, I'll rob the carptet from the divider between the back seat and the engine to make sure it matches.

The idea was to be stealth and I played it as originally built under the observers seat and tuned until I couldn't tell if the seat was open or closed, then made the fiberglass mod. I like it, it's not going to boil the water around the boat, but I think most things I hear are too bright with too much bass and not much in the middle. It works well for me but not sure how it would stack up against 2 10's

[TX-Foilhead]

Forgot to add this.

I can tell and feel that the TW5 is bigger than the 10w3 in my truck, but it's not quite as 'musical'. I think there are a couple of reasons, the 10w3 is in a jl stealthbox so it's tuned perfectly for the truck and enclosure. The TW5 is still new, might have about 5 hours on it, I suspect it will get better as it gets more use and loosens up since I've heard more people comparing it to the w6 than the w3.

That's probably part of the the crossover thing as well, but since it seems to sound better going the opposite of what I think I should do, thought It might be usefull to get some insite from those that mess with this more than I do.

[east tx skier]

From my memory of it, in a boat, you'll generally go a little high on the cabin speaker crossover to let the sub take a little more of the load than, say, you would in a home theater. Of course, in my setup, I'm running a single 8" in a sealed box, so I am letting the sub do quite a bit more work at 100 hz crossover. But it works for the system. Just something you have to play with based on what your cabin speakers can produce versus your sub.