Need New Subwoofer Advice...

[scarbs]

I have been running an (older) Infinity Kappa Series 10" subwoofer with a (newer) Kicker 600.2 5-channel amp and the amp recently gave up the ghost. Hence, I am looking for a new 10" subwoofer. The issue that I have is that my boat is a 1995 Sport, which as you know is a direct drive, so space is limited. I have the jump seat pictured below that also serves as an enclosure. My question is: What subwoofer would work best in this application? The Infinity Kappa was ok, but only ok.

Also, the jump-seat enclosure basically just uses the hollow seat base for its air space. It has no bottom, so it is neither sealed nor ported, so kind of tricky. People sitting in it also complain that the vibration created by the subwoofer intalled in the seat can be annoying. So my second question is whether I would be better off--soundwise--ditching the jump-seat enclosure and going with a small, thin enclosure (for space) like the Kicker TCVT10 or SKM10 pictured below?

I like a nice sounding stereo with good bass, but nothing special. I just want to get the most out of my current amplifier considering my space limitations.

Thanks for any help.

[EarmarkMarine]

Under the driver's dash is acoustically the very best place to locate a subwoofer. When the space is available for a wide, tall and shallow enclosure this is the way to go. A 10-inch acoustic suspension subwoofer can ideally function in a sealed enclosure that is as small as 1.0 cu ft external displacement or about 1.65 minimum external displacement for a bass-reflex enclosure. A 12-inch would be about 1.85 cu ft external sealed and perhaps as small as 2.75 cu ft external for bass-reflex.
In an open field boat you want as much radiating surface area as possible so you want a larger woofer that has to move less to create the same output. This will give you the cleanest bass. Bass-reflex versus sealed is another way to accomplish this. And you would like to have the woofer's radiation as unobstructed as possible...so not concealed in a locker or other compartment without adequate venting.
First determine the location and then the maximum external displacement that you can sacrifice. From there that will decide the best size of woofer(s) whether dual 8s, a single 10 or a single 12" and whether it would be best to go sealed or bass-reflex.
Stay away from any pre-fabbed or off-the-shelf automotive enclosure. MDF clad in an automotive trunk liner won't last a single season before decomposition and failed seams although the carpet (trunk liner) may conceal the failure for another season or two. The Kicker molded enclosure does a good job or you can go with a custom marinized enclosure that is elevated off the sole and sealed with a coating like polyester figerglass resin, epoxy resin or polyurethane bed liner. The custom enclosure has the advantage of a tailored fit to your particular boat.
A half sealed enclosure should be avoided for sure. And that makes the mechanical vibration worse. Two symmetrical and opposing woofers in a common and extremely rigid enclosure can help minimize the vibration.

David
Earmark Marine

[scarbs]

Thank you Mr. Earmark.

And obviously, I meant the subwoofer gave up the ghost and not my amp...lol.