10,000 watt 230

[davy]

Hi Earmark,
Just like to thank you for a start for all your knowledge,
Experience and help. You guys are great!
I wrote to you guys a year or 2 ago in regards to this sterio
We now have 90 percent of the gear ready to go.
This is what we have so far'
4 x kinetic hc3800 batteries
200 feet 1/0 gauge power cable
200 feet 8 gauge speaker cable
40 farad tsunami cap
4 x 200 amp tsunami circut breakers
4 x wet s 485
2 x wet s pro 80's
1 x Orion Hcca 25001- 2500watts
3 x Orion Hcca 10004- 500x2 each
2 x Orion Hcca 10002- 250x4 each
7500 watts so far!
Are you able to give me some advise on isolators and solonoids or what best to use please
What are your thoughts on boat speakers?
As you can tell by the krypt trial, we are happy to sacrifice some sound quality for volume
Boat speakers? What to use? We have a set of
Krypt hlcd 6.5 to try. I know they are long throw and not
Designed for this but can't hear the other boat speakers due to
The crazy loud tower

[Nautiqueman]

give us pics

[EarmarkMarine]

davy,
I can't see using HLCDs in the coaming within just a couple of feet of the occupants, especially a smaller one that is dominated by a piercing horn and is very peaky. It would be like fingernails on a chalkboard and may cause permanent hearing losses....and I am not kidding.
If you are getting so much residual radiation from the tower that it masks the in-boat speakers, let it be.
If you want more or better cockpit speakers then look to the Wetsounds XS650 coaxial as a very dynamic 6.5" coaxial. Going oversize in the coaming bolsters can be difficult, particularly if the speakers are recessed. If you can manage it there are some good conventional 7.7" coaxials now plus 8" and 8.8" coaxials on the horizon that will actually sound good near field.

David
Earmark Marine

[EarmarkMarine]

davy,
Just getting back to you about the solenoid/isolator issues. With 10Kwatts you are waaaay beyond the functional limitations of a voltage sensing solenoid. It would 'open' as intended when the voltage drops to isolate the starting bank and protect the alternator against an excessive load but it would never 'close' again after a short period at rest as the depleted batteries and continued stereo play would cause the voltage to sag beyond the alternator's ability to elevate the voltage to the 'close' threshold. There are alternative cascading schemes that may be too complex for you to execute.
I would do the following:
Big Balmar alternator upgrade with their management system.
Upgrade to the Perko 8603 heavy duty battery switch (380 amps continuous and 750 amps intermittent versus the standard 250/380). Or, something heavier if you can find one.
Use a massive battery bank consisting of multiple golf cart 6 volt batteries in series/parallel. At least 1000 amp/hours for that kind of power, so about eight batteries rated around 250 A/H each (note: seriesed A/Hs do not sum. Paralleled do sum).
A couple of digital voltmeters to keep close tabs on the status of your batteries which will determine how you manually manage the battery selector.
Several 80 amp 3-stage AC battery chargers.
An AC outlet with much larger service than the standard 15 amps.
This is the only way you are going to have reliability with that type of power.

David
Earmark Marine