2010 - 210 Stereo Cluster#uck

[Sac Surfer]

2010 210 Super Air Nautique.

6 in-boat speakers (3 sets) - http://www.crutchfield.com/p_107MM65...=0#details-tab

1 10" sub - http://www.crutchfield.com/p_107MM10...io-MM1040.html

All powered by Factory Polk 500.4 ch amp - http://www.polkaudio.com/downloads/m..._31March08.pdf

Factory Head Unit - Clarion CMD6 - http://www.clarion.com/us/en/product...392721025.html

Factory Wiring diagram attached, it shows 8-pin connect harness, however boat has a 12 pin.

Added

2 - Wet sounds REV 8's on the tower - http://www.wetsounds.com/media/produ...ion_Series.pdf

1- Syn 2 700watt 2ch amp. - http://www.wetsounds.com/media/produ...ser_Manual.pdf

420- eq - http://www.wetsounds.com/pages/produ...-420_spec.html (would like this installed on the driver side by the throttle lever so it's not bumped every time driver sits down) Will need 3 set's of RCA's run around the bow or under the floor to the amps in the flip up passengers side.

Situation

No more sound!!!!! nothing plays even with amps disconnected, not even the bow speakers running off the head unit. Head unit sill powers up and appears as if it is playing any of the sources(USB, CD, Radio etc) with no volume or actualy output.
Currently have 12.5 volts at both amps and both amps (light up) powers up for 3 seconds, then head unit reads "Amp Guard" and powers both amps down. (speaker short or independence issue with ohm's)

Fuses are in the Port side (Rear Locker) with breaker, (left side if sitting in the boat) All factory wiring was there, I just add Stinger ground & power distribution blocks.

CCR Tower Wiring Diagram 17-July-08.pdf

Any idea's? It's going to be reviewed by a professional shop in Albany NY at the end of the month if I can't get it figured out.

Thanks,

Mike

[EarmarkMarine]

No quick answer but I do have a concern if you are running 2.7 ohms coaxials off a HU and two 2.7 ohm coaxials in parallel for a 1.35 ohm net load off each of two amplifier channels. That spells trouble in any case.

David
Earmark Marine

[core-rider]

I suspect your wiring from the factory is as follows:
2 - bow speakers wired to HU.
4 - in-boat speakers wired to Polk amp (2 starboard wired parallel, 2 port wired parallel)
1 - sub bridged on Polk amp.

I'm assumming you used factory tower speaker wiring for the Rev8's and just added an amp. This means you used either the white or purple pair of wires for port and green or grey for starboard. These wire to the Syn2. This should put you back to where you started. If the existing equipment works fine then you need to recheck all the equipment you added. My first guess is the RTO leads might be your problem considering they look a bit odd from your pictures like I mentined earlier. Try what I said and report back.

It looks as if you jumped the remote turn on from the Polk amp the Syn2 using blue wire in one pic, but in another pic the Syn2 has a yellow wire and it looks as if the Polk only has 1 blue wire. Correct me if I'm wrong. The manual for that HU dosen't list anything about "amp guard" in the troubleshooting guide so I'm not sure what tha's all about.

My first suggestion would be to undue what you have done with the installation. Remove the RTO lead from the Polk amp to the Syn2 (however you wired it). Remove the fuse/breaker that powers the Syn2.

EDIT - I think you linked the wrong in-boat speakers. You should have the MM651UM. They are 4 ohm compared to the MM651 which is 2.7 ohm.

[Cam003]

do you have rca cables running from the deck to the 420, and from the 420 to the amps? test by runnig a single rca from the deck to one of the amps, as far as the amp gaurd, try just powering one up off the decks remote turn on lead. i suspect youhave a wierd wire spliced somewhere or a relay for the two amps and the 420

[Chexi]

You did wire power to the WS-420, correct?

Also, consider trying to find a spot on the left part of the driver's console if you ever expect your observer to be barking stuff out to the rider via the mic.

[Michael Richter]

Refer to Clarions CMD5 owners manual. That Fault seems to point you at the internal amp in the Headunit itself. All the Stereo jobs I do I run no spkrs off the headunit at all, all off the Amps. Also I run 3 wires from the WS-420 Directly to a newly installed Wetsounds Amp (power, ground and remote in there appropriate locactions) This will eliminate feedback and turn on "POP" in the future.

[ReSession]

I'm the guy who helped (or screwed up stuff) with Mike and his boat last weekend, and there are some details that I wanted to add in order to help clarify a few things!

1. The WS-420 has NOT been installed yet...it's still in the box.
2. Originally, the Polk amp was wired (assuming stock) to a positive and negative "post", or basically 2 bolts through the plastic amp board. We were working at a lake house in the middle of the Adirondacks and didn't have access to all the fittings we needed to simply piggyback onto the positive and negative posts to wire in the new WS Syn 2 Amp...I happened to bring a Stinger distributor (which you see wired in picture 1 and picture 3 that he attached...you can see the post to the right and top right corner), so I clipped the + and - wires from those posts and rewired through the Stinger distributor. I also figured it was safer?
3. I was not familiar with the SAN harnesses, but I did see the blue wire labeled as 'Amp' and followed it through the harness to out the back side of the amp board, and it went directly into the Polk amp. I followed the blue remote wire up above the harness, clipped that wire, and tapped into it for the RTO for the WetSounds Syn 2 amp. This was the original setup with the yellow wire (again, due to miscommunication on who was bringing what parts, we only had yellow wire, NOT blue...until we took a run to the auto parts store later!).
4. We had the wiring diagram from Nautique, along with the pre-wired tower that we could see the colors of the wires for the tower speakers...grey/grey+black and white/white+black. I followed these wires from where I believed them to be coming down to the harness, clipped the 4 wires before the harness and wired them into the Syn 2 amp.
5. We connected the batteries, fired up the stereo and everything powered up and music played out of all the in-boat speakers and sub...NO issues so far...keep in mind, I have NOT connected the RCA cables at this point (an oversight on my part as things got a bit busy with a group of neighbors showing up to visit and me huddled up in the cubby trying to coordinate things!)
6. Mike had bought some 'funky' RCA cables from a local audio store here...maybe I'm just paranoid, but they have the big metal silver ends opposed to plastic coverings...in any case, I located the gray set of RCA cables coming out from the rear of the head unit (which were all zip-tied up to keep from bouncing and becoming disconnected)...at the moment I plugged in the first RCA cable, the Polk amp shut down into protection mode and the Syn 2 went into a blinking protect mode as well.
7. We then disconnected power, I read the manual (where it said to make sure the RCAs were plugged in BEFORE powering everything up...d'OH!), I attempted to isolate the problem. Every time we'd power up the stereo, we'd get a small pop from all the boat speakers and count 3-2-1, 'amp guard' displays on head unit.
8. Here's where things got weird...I disconnected the Syn 2 amp (power, ground and remote), disconnected the RCA's and we'd still get the issue outlined in 7...'amp guard'.
9. We got out a power meter, no issues with power or ground...12.5.
10. When I tested the remote wire, it would show 12.5 on power-up...and after 3 seconds, drop to .5...so it has to be something with the remote right?
11. I ended up disconnecting/undoing the yellow remote wire, undid the 4 tower speakers and rewired them back to the harness as they had been connected...the only thing I didn't undo was the + and - power that were wired to the posts in on the amp board...we didn't have 4 gauge wire terminal crimps and I just couldn't understand how undoing the +/- Stinger distributor could be causing the problem, especially since everything powered up fine the first time?

In any case, it seems like there's an issue rolling with the Remote turn on, because I ended up removing power from ALL of the amps and the head unit STILL went into amp guard! It's possible that something is grounding out funky after I had to unclip the zip ties behind the head unit to access the RCA outputs, but just didn't have any more daylight to work with and headed back home with some hurting pride!

I'm sure the stereo shop can figure it out, but hopefully these details help shed some light on the issue and get Mikey out on the lake and 'stunning some fish' with those new Rev 8's

Thanks guys!

Greg

[Michael Richter]

Agreed If everything is disconected from the Headunit, I mean Everything then it has to be that Head Unit! Tho may not be the remote circuit. The remote circuit is just a turn on circuit. Amps recognize a small voltage (.5v in most cases) just as a signal to turn the amps on.

Im convinced this Is a Headunit issue (again if everything is disconnected for it). If it were one amp or the other, just that amp would go into "Protect Mode" not the headunit. Wiring issues Normally lead to an amp not working or playing not Head unit failure tho every case is different that's just my experience!

[Sac Surfer]

Turns out it is the head unit. The clarion CDM6 was the culprit have sense got it out of the boat an sending back for warranty repair.