New Stereo for G23/G25

[jrz1]

Have read existing stereo is pretty sub par. If ordering new boat, what is a reasonable amount to budget for re-do of existing system? Anyone done this? If so, give me idea of what your system looks like and rough cost. Probably want 1 set of tower speakers assuming that is "good enough". Can any part of existing system be used with good results?

Thanks.

[MLA]

Jrz1,

The first thing I would do is demo the system as it would be coming in your boat. Judge it for your self, then you can decide what areas are not meeting your goals. Then, since you are spec'ing out one for order, just leave off what you can of those areas that do not meet your needs. Most manufactures offer stereo option levels. ordering as little as possible, means less new OEM gear is getting pulled and disposed of, etc. It also make it easier for you to go in and do your own system to your liking. In my experience with CC, they do not use sub par equipment, but more often what is used is not configured or utilized to the best advantage. The 3 biggest areas we typically address are: subwoofer in port locker, bow speakers powered by the head-unit and undersized amp cabling. Beyond, the need for HLCD speakers on the tower for those needed projection at wake-board range. The OEM 6x9 coaxials used in the past where not that bad of a speaker, just not designed to project like many need.

[jrz1]

Thanks. Not sure if there is option to leave stuff out for any kind of credit but I plan to try and see one this weekend again and will turn it on. In my experience, you don't really figure out how you like it until you're out on the water and running it for a while. They usually sound good in the showroom. Other than the optional tower speakers, there isn't much optionality around the stereo but that is what it is. For a boat at this price point it seems they would use top of the line equip or at least have an option for upgrade so owners wouldn't need to mess as much (though stereos are something some people will always play with).

[perry386]

Mine came out to roughly 2,000. I have Kicker something 6200 (they are in the thread 'kicker cockpit speakers') on the tower and in the boat and I have a Rockford-Fosgate stereo head with a wetsounds XS-XXX subwoofer.....the only thing i left stock was the 5 channel Polk amps.

My only complaint in this system is the tower speakers aren't loud enough to hear while riding but the whole system sounds SO good in the boat that I dont care

[MLA]

Theres no ice on Lake Norman, tell Race City to splash one and take it for a sea trial! J/K, I know what you mean about demoing in a showroom.

[jrz1]

I've asked them about Saturday! Brrrr..(coming from someone who grew up in Chicago - I've gotten wimpy which is why I went to school in Florida)

[gride]

IMO, the first thing i would address is powering the bow speakers off of an amplifier. Secondly, I would address the sub's box, and ability to vent air, and finally I would address if and where i am lacking sufficient power to whatever speakers may be in the boat. leave the head unit. the boat comes with pretty quality stuff as others have stated, but it's ALL underpowered which can cause speakers to die prematurely and overwork your amplifiers.

[jrz1]

Thks gride. Didn't realize until these posts that bow speakers were powered by head unit vs. a separate amp. Pretty weak given the size of the bow seating area.

[Laketexoma]

My bow speakers were driven my the front half of the polk 5000.5. The rear ones were on the back half of it at 2ohms.

[santelee]

ive got a G23 on the way, trying to get stereo parts lined up. Is the existing sub in a sealed box? debating using existing box(if sealed) vs custom box for a 12 or 15 inch sub. thx lee

[Laketexoma]

No the factory sub is a infinite baffle. The back of the box opens into the bow sac area. I pulled mine so I can run my RCA's across to the 420 under the linc system. I'm going to run 2 12's in the rear compartment to start with.

[santelee]

Subs in rear lockers? Gonna port them out somehow? Placing 420 below dash on driver side correct?

[Laketexoma]

I have had good luck with having the subs in the rear (210,23 lsv,230). Yeah I have the 420 right below the key pad. I'm going to have right at 2 sqf for each sub. I'm running the kicker l7 12". So if should be about right. I'm going for sq as much as I can in a boat!! Lol

[EarmarkMarine]

If we are referring to the Polk MM subwoofer, factory often uses it as an 'infinite baffle' sub but the Thiele/Small parameters clearly show that it is a true 'air suspension' sub. And, it will sound much better (as it's a pretty decent sub) in the appropriate sealed or bass-reflex enclosure. Where factory has placed a 10" sub in the starboard coaming panel using the gunnel cavity as its baffle, then we have replaced this with a JL Audio M series IB sub which is correct for the application and sounds much better.
When you use a proper enclosure and relocate the factory sub this usually means that it goes in the port locker behind the observer's seat. Now you have another challenge of venting that compartment with a grill of sorts that has adequate surface area. Otherwise, placing a sub/enclosure within a closed compartment creates significant output losses (making your sub driver and amplifier work much harder), plus, you are left with tactile bass but without any bass musicality (very little tonal construction). Lots of boat shakin' and not alot of musical bass makin'.

David

[santelee]

im coming from a 230 w a 15 inch DAD sub and 1500 watt amp. this boat im thinking i dont want that much intensity but still want a real solid low end. not sure if the JL will do that
lee