Anyone ever thought of mounting a sub IN the floor with a grill that would protect it and fit flush to ground? You would probably have to do this with 2 subs spaced well apart so as to not have all of the bass coming from one location. And as for venting you could probably just let it vent underneath the floor. If this is a stupid Idea let me know; it just popped in my brain sooo i was wondering.
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perry,
Several boats, including a Supra, have featured from factory, a subwoofer in the under helm floor hump which used the foam-filled bilge as an enclosure with just okay results. It's not perfectly sealed so an 'air suspension' type of woofer doesn't work very well. You would need to use a true 'infinite baffle' 10-inch sub which ideally requires 2.25 cu.ft. of unobstructed enclosure.
Subwoofers on each side of the engine compartment (as discussed above) would be a symmetrical distance from all listeners, which is a good thing. Beyond that scenario, separating two subwoofers by any front/rear distance creates coherency issues where the separated subs reach listeners in various positions misaligned and out-of-phase (not polarity, rather a phase shift) with each other.
DavidEarmark Marine[URL="http://www.earmarkmarine.com"]
www.earmarkmarine.com[/URL]
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Originally posted by EarmarkMarine View Postperry,
Several boats, including a Supra, have featured from factory, a subwoofer in the under helm floor hump which used the foam-filled bilge as an enclosure with just okay results. It's not perfectly sealed so an 'air suspension' type of woofer doesn't work very well. You would need to use a true 'infinite baffle' 10-inch sub which ideally requires 2.25 cu.ft. of unobstructed enclosure.
Subwoofers on each side of the engine compartment (as discussed above) would be a symmetrical distance from all listeners, which is a good thing. Beyond that scenario, separating two subwoofers by any front/rear distance creates coherency issues where the separated subs reach listeners in various positions misaligned and out-of-phase (not polarity, rather a phase shift) with each other.
DavidLast edited by perry386; 02-03-2013, 09:58 PM.
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Perry,
The frequencies that a subwoofer plays are mostly non-direction and become more tactile in sensation at the lowest frequencies. You are going to hear a subwoofer in both ears regardless of the sub location.
A woofer, any woofer, played in isolation without the midbass contribution from the coaxials, sounds drunk and soggy. It's an easy experiment to verify. The phase integration of the sub and coaxials is better when the sub is in close proximity to the center of the four cockpit coaxials, in other words, from within the cockpit boundaries.
Typically an 'air suspension' 10-inch would require a sealed box of 0.10 cu.ft. 'external' displacement with a 12-inch requiring a sealed box of 1.75 cu.ft. 'external' displacement. With the fuel cells and other essential cables, stringers, lines, etc, it would be a challenge to completely conceal the sub enclsoure in the sole of the boat.
DavidEarmark Marine[URL="http://www.earmarkmarine.com"]
www.earmarkmarine.com[/URL]
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Originally posted by EarmarkMarine View PostPerry,
The frequencies that a subwoofer plays are mostly non-direction and become more tactile in sensation at the lowest frequencies. You are going to hear a subwoofer in both ears regardless of the sub location.
A woofer, any woofer, played in isolation without the midbass contribution from the coaxials, sounds drunk and soggy. It's an easy experiment to verify. The phase integration of the sub and coaxials is better when the sub is in close proximity to the center of the four cockpit coaxials, in other words, from within the cockpit boundaries.
Typically an 'air suspension' 10-inch would require a sealed box of 0.10 cu.ft. 'external' displacement with a 12-inch requiring a sealed box of 1.75 cu.ft. 'external' displacement. With the fuel cells and other essential cables, stringers, lines, etc, it would be a challenge to completely conceal the sub enclsoure in the sole of the boat.
David
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Originally posted by perry386 View PostBut if you could work it out to be a true air suspension sub how do you think it would sound?
DavidEarmark Marine[URL="http://www.earmarkmarine.com"]
www.earmarkmarine.com[/URL]
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Originally posted by EarmarkMarine View PostSee post #32. A true IB woofer. Complete front to rear acoustic isolation. A very rigid baffle. At least two cu.ft. to infinite. And knowing how to tune an IB woofer differently from an air suspension.
David
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Originally posted by perry386 View PostOk, you have proven my idea wrong. I will keep thinking for a new one
Supra got so so results from the floor hump mounting surface and bilge enclosure but it wasn't a true IB woofer and the surface was thin fiberglass that wasn't rigid enough. It wouldn't be difficult to execute better than Supra did. Beyond that I don't know of another example.
DavidEarmark Marine[URL="http://www.earmarkmarine.com"]
www.earmarkmarine.com[/URL]
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My set up for g23. Replace all interior w wetsound xs650. Sub will b DAD 15 inch w arc audio 1500 amp. Towers r 10 inch hlcd times two w arc amplifier. Wetsound 420 eq. Extra batteries. Hope it sounds as well as did in sante 230. Had great time last summer
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David,
What would you spec out for a new G25 if the owner wanted to upgrade it to have a killer system with great mid base punch and clarity? I will likely have the standard bimini vs. the Z5 as I'm 6'4" and don't want to have to constantly duck under the Z5 even though I like the look of it better. At a minimum, looking for tower speakers/amps and perhaps a new sub but wondering what else you'd recommend to really take the system over the top - upgraded interior speakers/amplification, better sub/amp, equalization/control (like to control tower speaker volume separately), additional battery etc. What should the wish list include?
Thanks
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Originally posted by EarmarkMarine View PostAs compared to a properly powered W7 sub, the factory sub will make no contribution other than to muddy the phase response and waste valuable supply current.
David
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Originally posted by jrz1 View PostDavid,
What would you spec out for a new G25 if the owner wanted to upgrade it to have a killer system with great mid base punch and clarity? I will likely have the standard bimini vs. the Z5 as I'm 6'4" and don't want to have to constantly duck under the Z5 even though I like the look of it better. At a minimum, looking for tower speakers/amps and perhaps a new sub but wondering what else you'd recommend to really take the system over the top - upgraded interior speakers/amplification, better sub/amp, equalization/control (like to control tower speaker volume separately), additional battery etc. What should the wish list include?
Thanks
DavidEarmark Marine[URL="http://www.earmarkmarine.com"]
www.earmarkmarine.com[/URL]
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