Another slant on AMP mounting

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  • jwfergus
    • Apr 2005
    • 15

    • Tennessee


    Another slant on AMP mounting

    I'm about to start upgrading my system. I'm staying with the clarion 6.5 coax's in my '93 SNOB and I'm not sure what I'm putting on the tower yet. I am planning on putting 1 12" in the drivers kick panel b/c I need every bit of room I can get under the observers seat.

    My dilema is this: I've seen many of your pictures of your amp mount, but how do you physically get them mounted on the gunwhale? I looked at white chocolates mount with the metal brackets ( I think too much overkill for me) and it also looked like in one of his installs he cut away the carpet and epoxied wood block on which he screwed the amps onto.

    I currently have two old school amps I'm going to install (They are old school, cut I have many other hobies including small children and a small income so please don't bust my chops). The first is a very small, light, but sturdy little HiFonics Falcon 90x2 amp that I plan on running the 4 stock speakers with. The second is a Fosgate Punch 160.2. Neither one of these are very large and I was thinking of sticking one large piece of Hook and loop/velcro backing on the entire bottom of the amp using some heat resistant adhesive. I hate the thought of permanently defacing my carpeted gunwhales b/c I bought this boat as a training boat until I feel comfortable enough and am sure that the family has bought into my addiction enough to justify a full blown $60k investment.

    What are your thoughts or explanations of mounting these amps?

    Any help is appreciated,

    Thanks,

    Joe
  • Mikeski
    1,000 Post Club Member
    • Jul 2003
    • 2908

    • San Francisco, CA

    • Current 2005 SV 211, due for upgrade! GS22 or GS24 perhaps? Previous

    #2
    RE: Another slant on AMP mounting

    The latest approach is to use mounting rails. I mounted rails under my bow mounted to the tower bolt, seat support bolt and dash under the pad. Some guys are also removing the rub rail filler and bolting the rails to the side with a little "foot" where the rail meets the floorboard. Check wakeworld for various pix.

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    • Sbt3
      • Dec 2004
      • 164

      • Okauchee Wisconsin


      #3
      RE: Another slant on AMP mounting

      You could get away with something similar to Grant's design but not so robust. I did something similar and took some aluminum flat stock that was 1/8" thick by 3" wide and just put it in a vice and bent it by hand to match the angle of the of the wall. Then bolted those to the floor. I got the aluminium from home depot. I think it cost around $15.

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      • jroyal
        • Aug 2003
        • 342

        • A, A

        • 2008 210 Black/White 2001 Super Air Black/White

        #4
        I used a 3/4" piece of MDF with L brackets mounted on the bottom of the board and placed the board along the port side of my boat. However, I did not have to remove any carpet because the board is not attached to the side of the boat.

        One of the legs of the L bracket is screwed to the back of the MDF board. The other is screwed to the floor of the boat. I did this by lifting up the carpet and screwing the other leg of the L bracket to the bottom of the boat. The amp board is mounted about 3/4" above the bottom of the boat so it doesn't get wet.

        To keep the board from moving away from the side of the boat, I attached a metal bracket at the top of the amp board to a screw on my tower (under the gunnel.) The board doesn't move at all. Besides that, I can remove it easily if I need to switch out one of my amps.

        Below is an illustration that may help.
        2008 Team Edition 210 - Black
        2001 Super Air Nautique *Sold*

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