Hooking up SYN4 and pair rev8 to stock switch

[ericchile]

Current system has polk 500.4 to inboat speakers with CMD5 on a 2009 SANTE 230.

Adding syn4, Wetsounds EQ and pair of rev8.

I was hoping for a strait forward clean installation. I have the following questions.

Can I use the existing battery switch and fuse panel to wire in amp? Do I need to upgrade the wire? Are there any pdf manuals for this switch?

Also I have the quick release connectors from wetsounds. I see four poles on those, what is the correct wiring for those? LEDs are also installed on the rev8s.

Sorry for the newbie questions. I was hoping to learn from the experience and I do have quite a bit of electrical experience, some stereo.

Thanks!

[core-rider]

I don't see any reason why you couldn't add a properly sized circuit breaker to the "Acc" blank on the panel. Then you would just need to add the necessary wiring from it to where ever you mount the amp. I hope CC used at least 1/0 gauge cables from the batteries to that Perko switch. If so, I think you will be okay adding a 75-100 amp circuit there.

I'm not familar with the quick connect plugs they use and couldn't find info on their website when using LEDs, but I would think there are designations on the plugs for 1+ 1- 2+ 2- similar to the Neutrik plugs they used before. They used 1+ and 1- for the speakers, 2+ and 2- for the lights.

[ericchile]

So I opened up the case that holds the perko switch. I can't figure out what the red buttons to right actually do. They don't recess that much. Are they some sort of breaker that pop out when too much current is drawn? If so do I still need an inline fuse after that line? What kind of amp fuse would I need for syn4 plus pair of rev8? If I add a pair of rev8 would it change?

Here is the connector I am using http://store.earmarkcaraudio.com/Xca...4&cat=0&page=2

[core-rider]

Yes those are breakers. They will not really push in unless tripped. I used a 100 amp fuse on my SYN4 and suggest that size breaker for you. You will not need a fuse if using the breaker. You are sizing the breaker for the maximum load of the amp. The speakers used will not change the breaker size needed.

Those are the Neutrik connectors I was referring too. 1+ and 1- will be used for the speaker, 2+ and 2- will be used for the lighting.


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[ericchile]

So can I assume +1 is high noon on the connector?

Where I can buy a 100amp breaker for that box?

Thanks for your help!!!

[core-rider]

The connectors are labeled. Kinda hard to see but you will see them. Might have to shop around for the breaker no didn't see one one Nautique Parts. Dealer item maybe?


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[MLA]

So can I assume +1 is high noon on the connector?

Where I can buy a 100amp breaker for that box?

Thanks for your help!!!

Those terminals are labeled, just hard to see.

For the breaker, its capacity needs to be high enough to the carry the potential load of the amp, but not exceed the capacity of the cabling. The cabling needs to be able to carry the potential current of the amp, yet not exceed the capacity of the breaker.

[ericchile]

Yup you guys are right! Behind the screws are the labels for +1 etc.

I was thinking about running 4 gauge wire and grabbing a 100amp breaker (if I can find it).

Now for the tower speakers. They all seem to go to this plug (see picture below). Rather than splice does anyone know where I can grab the connector so I just plug to amp?

[MLA]

The Syn-4 has three 25A fuses. Theres no advantage to having circuit protection that exceeds the max potential draw of the amp, or you could run as low as a 60A if sourcing that or an 80A is easier then a 100A of that OEM style.

Your dealer might be able to source the connector with pigtail from CC, other wise, you will have to figure out what Deutsch connector body and terminals they are.

[core-rider]

Those terminals are labeled, just hard to see.

For the breaker, its capacity needs to be high enough to the carry the potential load of the amp, but not exceed the capacity of the cabling. The cabling needs to be able to carry the potential current of the amp, yet not exceed the capacity of the breaker.

I think this should read... For the breaker, its capacity needs to be high enough to the carry the potential load of the amp, but not exceed the capacity of the cabling. The cabling needs to be able to carry the potential current of the amp, plus a certain percentage. I always make sure that wiring can handle more load than the fuse/breaker. If the wire fails before the fuse/breaker, than there was really no need for a fuese/breaker in the first place.

[core-rider]

I finally had a chance to look at mine this weekend and I have an 80 amp fuse, not 100 amp. Like MLA said you may have beeter luck finding an 80 amp breaker. 4 awg wire should be fine assuming you're not running more than 15-20 feet.

[MLA]

Those terminals are labeled, just hard to see.

For the breaker, its capacity needs to be high enough to the carry the potential load of the amp, but not exceed the capacity of the cabling. The cabling needs to be able to carry the potential current of the amp, and exceed the carrying capacity of the breaker.

Good catch Core-Rider, poor wording made the statement contradict itself. Does this read better? Thanks and sorry for any confusion.

[ericchile]

Looks like the exact breaker is made by "Mechanical Products" out of Jackson MI.
http://news.thomasnet.com/fullstory/...UL-1500-460757

Unfortunately they only product a 60amp breaker. Meh will that be popping all the time with a syn4 and a couple of rev8s?

Is 20 ft of 4 gauge wire too long of a run?

[core-rider]

That may be running a bit long. Here is a chart to go by, but not written in stone numbers. Odds are you won't ever pull enough amps to trip a 75-80 amp breaker/fuse unless something goes wrong. A 4awg cable should be good for about 120-150 amps IIRC.

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...ingdiagram.jpg

[ericchile]

OK I am starting to rethink this and better future proof this. (Although I don't anticipate changing it myself).

I think I will rip out the 8 gauge wire going to the stock polk 500.4 amp that powers the in-boats and stock sub.

Then I will run a 1/0 gauge marine wire (still figuring out where to buy) with 150amp fuse right off the perko switch. At the end of the 1/0 wire I will put a 4 block connection (does this need to be fused to protect the small run of 8 wire since the amps are already fused?) and then reuse the 8 gauge stock wire here. It looks like the run from the perko switch is about 20-22 feet. I don't know why they didn't put the battery isolater on the port side of the boat so the run to the HU area would be shorter and not have to cross the engine!!

Thoughts?

I am still trying to figure where to find the connector to the wires that come out of the tower to the amp board. Picture in previous thread.

Thanks for working through this with me. I am learning a lot (real reason for not paying a shop).