That is a better route to go in the long run IMHO. The 1/0 awg cable will be enough to run most systems unless you just go crazy power. The 1/0 awg isn't cheap, but I think it's easier and cleaner looking than running mutiple wires for multiple amps. Just search online an you will find many places selling the cable, fuse holders, etc. The cable won't need to be "marine rated" unless you frequent salt water. Being in SLC I don't think you will. Good quality copper cable should be fine. I would suggest a fused distribution block. It's always a good practice to fuse all leads. Your 1/0 awg cable should be fused for the total load, and the distribution leads fused for their respective loads.
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Originally posted by ericchile View PostOK I am starting to rethink this and better future proof this. (Although I don't anticipate changing it myself).
I think I will rip out the 8 gauge wire going to the stock polk 500.4 amp that powers the in-boats and stock sub.
Then I will run a 1/0 gauge marine wire (still figuring out where to buy) with 150amp fuse right off the perko switch. At the end of the 1/0 wire I will put a 4 block connection (does this need to be fused to protect the small run of 8 wire since the amps are already fused?) and then reuse the 8 gauge stock wire here. It looks like the run from the perko switch is about 20-22 feet. I don't know why they didn't put the battery isolater on the port side of the boat so the run to the HU area would be shorter and not have to cross the engine!!
Thoughts?
I am still trying to figure where to find the connector to the wires that come out of the tower to the amp board. Picture in previous thread.
Thanks for working through this with me. I am learning a lot (real reason for not paying a shop).
Cut out that tower speaker harness connector and dont look back.
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Learning a lot about my stereo system. It looks like Nautique ran 6 awg all the way from the starboard side locker counter clock wise all around the boat, up to the bow and down to the port side stereo compartment. I am guessing it is about 35 feet of awg. Then it does a 6 foot loop in the compartment that doesn't need to be there. Then it connects to a bolt on the amp board, which on the other side goes down to a 14 awg wire into the polk 500.4 amp. LOL.
According to www.bcae1.com there is a lot of voltage drop in that. Why is it like that?
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Originally posted by core-rider View PostBecause all boat builders are just that... boat builders, not stereo gurus. CC has been that way for as long as I can think of. Sounds like you have some work ahead of you!
So I got everything hooked up tonight. First pass and everything is working good. I had to undo just about every black plastic cover and eletrical tape holding wires together. The good thing is that I feel I know my system a lot better. I also know what I need next. I still need to clean up some wires and I am not entirely happy about the location of the distribution block. Is it possible to glue that on the carpet next to the AMP board?
I wasn't able to turn up the rev8s all the way because it was 9pm and I like my neighbors. I don't have the WS420EQ installed yet but that should be easier once I figure out where I want to put it.
So far I can say I am LOVING the wetsounds stuff. Crystal clear sound!
I think I might have just gotten bitten by the upgrade bug. Next a syn6 plus new interior speakers? Or another pair of rev8s? Once I tune this and build a better AMP board I think I will grab something else!
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