2013 210/230 amps

[ffmedic74]

Anyone know what amps come with the 2013 210/230 nautique team edition with 4 factory tower speakers?

[tommy1005]

Pretty sure it's a Polk audio D5000.5 for in boat and sub, and a D4000.4 for the tower

[jonsquatch]

That's the way it is in my 2012 210. The tower has 2 Roswell 7.0 Airborne HLCD's (rated for 200 watts continuous) on top and 2 Polk MM651UM's (100 watts continuous) mounted in Rosewell spinner mounts (that they don't appear to sell separately) that match the rest of the in boat speakers (which by the way have the black grilles off of the standard MM651's and when one dies on you if you go through Polk they have to get it custom from the east coast distribution center). They are each powered off of one channel of the D4000.4 which is rated at 125 watts x 4 at 4 ohms. This means the the HLCD's are underpowered but the spinners are slightly over powered.

The other 4 main cabin in boat speakers and the sub (MM1040UM (350 watts continuous at 4 ohms) which based on the TS parameters wants a .44 cubic foot sealed box not the infinite baffle situation its used in) are powered off the D5000.5 which is rated at 70 x 4 and 200 x 1 at 4 ohms. So the main in boats are under powered and the sub is slightly under powered but being that it is not seeing the dampening it would expect in a small sealed box thats probably why it doesn't self destruct faster. The bow speakers are run off the front channel of the Clarion head unit (which oddly enough is which channel the tower is on by default) which is rated at 4 x 18 watts so they are drastically under powered.

Its a mixed bag because the only way to hear the tower speakers on the water is to set the deck mostly towards the front so that you are not going deaf in boat and crank it up, but that causes the bow speakers to be driven very hard with too little power which makes them distort and sound very harsh, and the spinners in the tower are very over driven and they are a bit obnoxious as well if you're in the back seat. At the same time there is very little bass because it is on the rear channel but thats not a bad thing because it distorts badly if driven hard. Now you could fix all of these problems for about 250 bucks if your not going to gut the system and start over.

You could pick up a JL Audio MX10IB3 10-inch marine subwoofer driver for infinite-baffle use (250W at 4 ohm continuous) and enough speaker wire that should actually be used to drive the sub (I don't like the factory stuff for the tower either but I am not going to re-pull it) and then re-purpose the existing amplifiers. The D5000.5 can be used to power the sub (now only slightly under powered) and have the other 4 channels bridged to provide 200 watts x 2 at 4 ohms for the tower HLCD's. The D4000.4 can be used to drive all the rest of the in boats by wiring 2 pairs of speakers in parallel to each channel which would present a 2 ohm load which would cause the D4000.4 to provide 200 watts x 4 at 2 ohms so each speaker should see the equivalent of 100 watts at 4 ohms.

Not sure why they didn't do this from the factory, its the way I would have done it. The only problem with doing this is working in that tiny cubby hole to pull everything out and make the necessary changes. The wires they used don't look long enough so you might need to pull new wires from the front speakers if you don't want to splice them together in the storage compartment and you might have to use new wire for the patch wiring on the back side of the panel if you want to use the same molex plug. I have been planning on doing this for months now as its the first step before I get my Wet Sounds 420 as if I still don't like it I am pulling the amps and HLCD's and spinners and getting 2 sets of Rev8's (with the Z5 I can't fit the 10's being 6'4" I need the height) when I have a spare 4-5 grand laying around, only thing keeping me from it is free time when I am not too sore from wakeboarding to squeeze in there.

[ffmedic74]

I will have 4 of the Roswell hlcd tower speakers, 6 interior, and the factory sub. What's the effective solution to utilize the current factory speakers and power everything correctly. Would like to utilize some of the current amps if possible to save some money. Will most likely add a separate volume control for the tower speakers.

[jonsquatch]

If you are unlucky enough to have 4 of the Roswell 7.0 Airborne HLCD's and only 6 in boats there isn't much you can do electrically to help out. With only 125 watts each on the tower if you drive it hard enough you can hear it well enough back at 70 feet with just the one pair I have. With 2 pairs you should pick up enough to get back far enough for everyone. With only similar tower speakers on that amp you can switch the RCA's feeding the 2 amps so that front drives the in boats and sub and rear drives the tower and then either adjust the gains (if the front speakers aren't too loud or else use the fader in the deck to fade rear (to the tower). If you push it hard enough to get into clipping you could damage the something (and at 1700 a set those Airborne's are spendy) and you would still have the bow speakers on the head unit.

Neither amp has enough capacity to drive both sets of HLCD's with enough power to fully utilize them. With 6 in boat speakers you can't really drive them equally with 4 channels and for 2 channels you can either get an unsafe load (less than 2 ohms) in parallel or wire them in series but the relative power they would each see is anemic.

If you want to keep the same speakers you have now and just feed them enough power without replacing all the amps and want them to match you could probably sell the D5000.5 and pick up another D4000.4 and a D1000.1 and use 6 channels of the D4000.4's at 125 watts to power the 6.5's and bridge the other 2 together to drive the sub (now seeing ~400 watts so you probably want to at least pull it and glass in an enclosure and reinforce the area). The D1000.1 claims to give 1200 watts at 1ohm so if you wire the 4 tower speakers together in parallel (for 1 ohm) they should see the equivalent of 300 watts each. Of course that assumes best case scenario of a constant 14.4 volts which depending on how you use your system might not be realistic so those numbers could all be high so its good to have a bit of padding.

Of course you could go looking for alternatives, but its a pain having to account for the 6 speakers. Its almost 2 grand for a Wetsounds HT6 plus 2 HT4's for the tower and a HT1 for the sub. Not much less for 2 JL M600/1's and a M800/8V2, but if you look around there are other options.

[tommy1005]

you'll want to run the D5000.5 to the 6 in boat speakers and the sub. It should atleast be hooked up to the 4 cabin and sub already, run the bow off channels 1&2, the 4 "cabin" speakers off 3&4, and the sub off channel 5, which should be where it is already. This setup will give you 70x2 to the bow speakers and 50 watts to each of the 4 "cabin" speakers.

While not ideal, the D4000.4 to the tower is atleast decent for the time being. It should be hooked up with one speaker per channel giving them 125 watts each.

If you wanted to upgrade power anywhere, I would add an additional D4000.4 so that you could run each amp bridged into a 2 channel configuration. This setup would give you 400 watts per tower speaker which should make those speakers scream. Your inboats and sub will still be a little underpowered in this instance, but short of a complete system revamp I see no need to change that. This was you spend maybe $400 including wiring and will have a pretty good system. Throw an inline volume control for the tower speakers and you'll be set.

[cedarcreek216]

If you are running the four in cabin speakers off two channels in parallel doesn't that effective double the wattage from the amp by dropping it to 2 OHM? This will be the exact set up I will have on the boat we just bought and I am curious if it will be enough. Thinking about abandoning the stock sub in place and putting a ported sub in the observer storage and venting the access door in the walk through.


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[MLA]

With most typical amps, but not all, there is a difference in output between 4 ohm and 2 ohm, but its not always an automatic 2x.

[tvaleri]

I have an appointment to take my 2014 210 in to the stereo shop tomorrow morning to deal with a similar wiring issue as you have described here. I'm going to have the front channel from the head unit wired to the 5000.5 amp to run all cockpit speakers (including the bow) and subwoofer. I'll have the rear channel run to the 4000.4 to run the two tower speakers. I believe this will allow me to use the fade adjustment to use the forward setting to only run the interior boat speakers so we can listen to music without creating unnecessary noise outside the boat. The rear fade will then only activate the tower speakers when needed. Is there any other direction to give the installer?