Polk 5000.5 output for 1 pair of tower speakers and a 10" sub

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  • RacingSims
    • May 2012
    • 207

    • Somers,Ct

    • 2013 Super Air 210

    Polk 5000.5 output for 1 pair of tower speakers and a 10" sub

    I can't seem to find the post that explained how one could use the polk 5000.5 for 1 pair of Tower speakers and a 10" sub. What would the ouput be if this amp was used. I thought it mentioned something about bridging and having roughly 200w for the sub. Thanks
  • MLA
    1,000 Post Club Member
    • Dec 2009
    • 1312

    • Lake Wylie NC Area


    #2
    From the polk website

    100W x 4, 400W x 1 RMS @ 2 ohms;
    70W x 4, 200W x 1 RMS @ 4 ohms;
    200W x 2 RMS bridged @ 4 ohms;
    500W x 1 RMS @ 1 ohm (sub)

    What amp do you currently have driving the in-boats? I would use the 5 chnl for the in-boats and sub and possibly use the existing amp for the tower speakers. Less work for that small hybrid 5 chnl.

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    • RacingSims
      • May 2012
      • 207

      • Somers,Ct

      • 2013 Super Air 210

      #3
      Was going to use my JL audio 6/600 for in-boats and wanted to use the 5000.5 for tower and sub. The sub I was looking at was the JL Audio M10IB5. As discussed a few times here as the sub will be behind the drivers seat ( 2013 210)

      Comment

      • nyryan2001
        1,000 Post Club Member
        • Mar 2013
        • 1993

        • Lake Anna


        #4
        What tower speakers are we talking about?
        2019 G23 450
        2014 G23 550
        2013 G23 450
        2011 Malibu Wakesetter 247
        2007 Yamaha AR210

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        • David Analog
          • Sep 2013
          • 263

          • Dallas


          #5
          Originally posted by RacingSims View Post
          I can't seem to find the post that explained how one could use the polk 5000.5 for 1 pair of Tower speakers and a 10" sub. What would the ouput be if this amp was used. I thought it mentioned something about bridging and having roughly 200w for the sub. Thanks
          As asked above it is important to know what tower speakers you intend to drive. Is 200 watts enough? You can't bridge into a load lower than 4-ohms.

          As for the subwoofer. If the amplifier delivers 500 watts @ 1-ohm, it will deliver less into 2-ohms, and even less into a 4-ohm load. I've heard the M series IB10 with 250 watts from a strictly regulated amplifier and 280 to 340 watts from an unregulated amplifier. All those systems performed very well. 200 watts would normally be lite for the M series IB10. But with a power supply large enough to generate 500 watts on channel 5, I would feel better about it. That's a fair amount of headroom.
          Btw, I wouldn't want to load any five-channel amplifier down to the absolute minimum load across the board. You're just asking for thermal troubles on a July/August afternoon.

          Comment

          • RacingSims
            • May 2012
            • 207

            • Somers,Ct

            • 2013 Super Air 210

            #6
            The tower has 2Roswell 7.0 Airborne HLCD's (rated for 200 watts continuous)

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            • jonsquatch
              • Jul 2012
              • 251

              • AZ

              • 2012 Super Air Nautique Byerly Icon

              #7
              I have the JL M10IB3 on the same amp and it seems just adequate despite the rating of 50-175 watts RMS at 4ohms. The IB3 is an improvement over the stock Polk although its not a head turner and I would like to have more output. The Polk sounds great in a .75 cubic foot (not subtracting for driver displacement) sealed box in my tow vehicle with 350 watts on it. I also have the Airbornes on the tower and they do sound a little better with 200 watts on them than the 125 the supposedly get from the D4000.4 I have, they are easier to integrate into the system that way.

              Using the 10IB3 I do have a problem with resonance in the helm (most specifically from the plastic cover on the bottom), the whole side panel (most annoyingly the christmas tree fastener at the front tip by the drivers feet doesn't line up with the hole at all), and the plastic insert with the kill switch. Both component speakers on that side were also affected quite a bit causing audible distortion, although I was able to trim some foam baffles to fit and that helped. I have some sound deadening to add when I get some time that should help and will probably reinforce the mounting flange for the sub as it isn't as stiff as I would like. I wish mine just didn't come with a factory sub so I could mount it elsewhere otherwise it might be better to just glass in a permanent enclosure.

              2012 Super Air Nautique 210 Byerly Icon Edition EX343 <-- Current Boat
              2007 Reinell 185 BR Volvo Penta 4.3GL <-- Former Boat
              1988 Bayliner 195 Capri OMC Cobra 5.0 <-- Former "starter" Boat

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