I can't seem to find the post that explained how one could use the polk 5000.5 for 1 pair of Tower speakers and a 10" sub. What would the ouput be if this amp was used. I thought it mentioned something about bridging and having roughly 200w for the sub. Thanks
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From the polk website
100W x 4, 400W x 1 RMS @ 2 ohms;
70W x 4, 200W x 1 RMS @ 4 ohms;
200W x 2 RMS bridged @ 4 ohms;
500W x 1 RMS @ 1 ohm (sub)
What amp do you currently have driving the in-boats? I would use the 5 chnl for the in-boats and sub and possibly use the existing amp for the tower speakers. Less work for that small hybrid 5 chnl.
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Originally posted by RacingSims View PostI can't seem to find the post that explained how one could use the polk 5000.5 for 1 pair of Tower speakers and a 10" sub. What would the ouput be if this amp was used. I thought it mentioned something about bridging and having roughly 200w for the sub. Thanks
As for the subwoofer. If the amplifier delivers 500 watts @ 1-ohm, it will deliver less into 2-ohms, and even less into a 4-ohm load. I've heard the M series IB10 with 250 watts from a strictly regulated amplifier and 280 to 340 watts from an unregulated amplifier. All those systems performed very well. 200 watts would normally be lite for the M series IB10. But with a power supply large enough to generate 500 watts on channel 5, I would feel better about it. That's a fair amount of headroom.
Btw, I wouldn't want to load any five-channel amplifier down to the absolute minimum load across the board. You're just asking for thermal troubles on a July/August afternoon.
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I have the JL M10IB3 on the same amp and it seems just adequate despite the rating of 50-175 watts RMS at 4ohms. The IB3 is an improvement over the stock Polk although its not a head turner and I would like to have more output. The Polk sounds great in a .75 cubic foot (not subtracting for driver displacement) sealed box in my tow vehicle with 350 watts on it. I also have the Airbornes on the tower and they do sound a little better with 200 watts on them than the 125 the supposedly get from the D4000.4 I have, they are easier to integrate into the system that way.
Using the 10IB3 I do have a problem with resonance in the helm (most specifically from the plastic cover on the bottom), the whole side panel (most annoyingly the christmas tree fastener at the front tip by the drivers feet doesn't line up with the hole at all), and the plastic insert with the kill switch. Both component speakers on that side were also affected quite a bit causing audible distortion, although I was able to trim some foam baffles to fit and that helped. I have some sound deadening to add when I get some time that should help and will probably reinforce the mounting flange for the sub as it isn't as stiff as I would like. I wish mine just didn't come with a factory sub so I could mount it elsewhere otherwise it might be better to just glass in a permanent enclosure.
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