Tower Speakers Cutting out

[ZachD]

Total newbie here without much stereo experience. I also apologize in advance as there are definitely some threads on here about this similar issue, but any help would be appreciated. I have an 08 210 with one factory amp and one upgraded Memphis audio amp. I also have the stock subwoofer and then 4 titan tower speakers and the factory Polk momos in the boat. After running for about an hour or two at decent volume, especially at a tie up, I've noticed that the tower speakers will cut out for about 5 mins or so and then come back on and run for another half hour or so... To be honest, at this point I'm not even sure at this point what amp is pushing what speakers, etc...

When the tower speakers cut out (almost like a breaker gets tripped) the Memphis amp is really hot to the touch. I tried leaving the spotter seat up, but it's just plain hot down in there.

Here are my questions:
1. Is there anything I should do or check as far as settings go on these amps?
2. I have a 400watt MTX car amp that is not being used that I used to have pushing my sub in my old Jeep. Would it make sense to install this to run the sub in the boat and take some load off of the other amp that is currently pushing the sub to help them run cooler? Or am i just asking for headaches by putting a car amp in a boat...
3. Any other suggestions (without spending an arm and a leg) to allow my stereo to keep rocking all day during a tie up or just out on the water? Probably not going to do anything this summer, but maybe a good project to get on for the winter.

I'd be happy to post pics if someone would be able to help me identify what i am looking at/for....thanks!

[Ponger]

It sounds to me like nothing is wrong. Most amps will shut themselves off when they get too warm. Sounds like that is all that is happening.
One solution is to run bigger/more powerful amp or a higher quality amp. They shouldnt get as hot if they are not working as hard. Higher quality amp manufactures tend to under rate their amps and design them to handle loads near the upper end of their ratings.
Splitting the load up between several amps should help as well. Be careful installing non-marine equipment in your boat. Make sure you have a fuse or breaker on any power wires you run from your battery.

Hope that helps.

[MLA]

Total newbie here without much stereo experience. I also apologize in advance as there are definitely some threads on here about this similar issue, but any help would be appreciated. I have an 08 210 with one factory amp and one upgraded Memphis audio amp. I also have the stock subwoofer and then 4 titan tower speakers and the factory Polk momos in the boat. After running for about an hour or two at decent volume, especially at a tie up, I've noticed that the tower speakers will cut out for about 5 mins or so and then come back on and run for another half hour or so... To be honest, at this point I'm not even sure at this point what amp is pushing what speakers, etc...

When the tower speakers cut out (almost like a breaker gets tripped) the Memphis amp is really hot to the touch. I tried leaving the spotter seat up, but it's just plain hot down in there.

Here are my questions:
1. Is there anything I should do or check as far as settings go on these amps?
2. I have a 400watt MTX car amp that is not being used that I used to have pushing my sub in my old Jeep. Would it make sense to install this to run the sub in the boat and take some load off of the other amp that is currently pushing the sub to help them run cooler? Or am i just asking for headaches by putting a car amp in a boat...
3. Any other suggestions (without spending an arm and a leg) to allow my stereo to keep rocking all day during a tie up or just out on the water? Probably not going to do anything this summer, but maybe a good project to get on for the winter.

I'd be happy to post pics if someone would be able to help me identify what i am looking at/for....thanks!

1) Yes. Amp setup can effect how efficient it runs, thus reducing its temp
2) I would consider this for other reasons as well. Im willing to bet that the boat speakers are driven by the head-unit. Freeing up those 2 chnls on the OEM 4 chnl, makes room to get the bow pair off the head-unit and on the amp. You would likely need to run new cabling for that amp.
3) It should not cost a dime, just time, to get the system to where it will run all day with no issues, while the engine is running. To extend the engine off/anchored play time, you will need to invest in more battery amp hours.

[David Analog]

I would have to agree that if it plays that long there is probably nothing critically wrong. Low voltage can compound thermal issues. Better battery reserves, shore power charging, better supply cables, better tuning, and fan-cooling could all (but not limited to) improve the thermal performance.