I just picked up a JL 6/600 amp and want to setup the Polk DB651s on their own channel. My current setup was the stock 4 channel (mid-ship and rear bridged). I want to change this to have each speaker on it's own channel. Suggestions or thoughts on to adjust this so it runs properly? I assume it is done in the harness, but I havent pulled the harness to see what I am working with yet. Boat is a 2003 SAN Limited Edition.
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No problem.
Obviously you'll need to run power and ground leads as well as the remote turn on. If your amps are close you can run a jumper remote turn on(usually small blue wire from the one Amp to the new amp for ease.
As far as getting the speakers hooked up right, you are going to have to cut the speaker wires off the harness. You will end up running all the speaker wires directly to the amp. You may need to add/splice on some speaker wire to now relocate those ends to the amp as opposed to going directly to the head unit. Be aware of which is positive and negative. Your head unit (stereo) manual will tell you which speaker is assigned which color on the harness.
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If i am reading correctly, you want to swap out the current 4 chnl powering the in-boats, with your new 6 chnl.
The mid-ship and rear pairs are typically wired in parallel. You need to pull the speakers, locate which ones which onlt have a single pair of leads on them. Pull the leads and tape them up and zip tie them up to the harness. Now run a new dedicated speaker wire pair to the amp.
The bow speakers should already be wired to the amp or head-unit, so nothing much to do there.
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Originally posted by MLA View PostIf i am reading correctly, you want to swap out the current 4 chnl powering the in-boats, with your new 6 chnl.
The mid-ship and rear pairs are typically wired in parallel. You need to pull the speakers, locate which ones which onlt have a single pair of leads on them. Pull the leads and tape them up and zip tie them up to the harness. Now run a new dedicated speaker wire pair to the amp.
The bow speakers should already be wired to the amp or head-unit, so nothing much to do there.
MLA - Let me make sure I understand. The rear and mid-ship speakers are run in parallel, but the parallel configuration is managed after the harness (at the head unit). Since this is the case I need to pull the existing wiring and run it direct to my amps. I can then pull the harness all together and run everything direct to the amps.
Correct?
I ask because I poked my head under the helm last night and found that the harness has two orange 'jumpers' that go in and out of the harness (no external connection to stereo/amp) that look to be managing the parallel configuration.
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My apologies I seem to have mis interpreted what you were doing. I was under the impression your (4) 6X9 were a tower system of some sort that previous owner installed and you were upping to some higher quality inboat speakers in addition and wanted to give them a dedicated amp rather then run them off the head unit........not replacing the (4) 6x9's.. This was because you stated "they are not attached to the harness and go directly to the (4) channel. So this lead me to believe you are replacing the inboats which were wired off the head unit and adding a second amp to juice them up thus needing to pull your original speakers off the harness when you drop in the DB's.
It's just odd to me that the configuration is paralleled and bridged with only 4 speakers going into a 4 channel amp. Makes zero sense. So adding the additional 2 speakers to the mix just requires adding some speaker wire from them direct to the amp. If you are running every speaker in the boat off an amp they should all go directly to the amp not into the harness. You can't eliminate the harness completely because your power and grounds also run through the harness.Last edited by swatguy; 09-04-2014, 11:04 AM.
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That would be in addition to finding those paralleled points that MLA mentioned of course.
Again my apologies for the confusion and the mis info I provided on what you were trying to accomplish. I now understand what it was exactly and my original info was useless.Last edited by swatguy; 09-04-2014, 11:11 AM.
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Originally posted by swatguy View PostThat would be in addition to finding those paralleled points that MLA mentioned of course.
Again my apologies for the confusion and the mis info I provided on what you were trying to accomplish. I now understand what it was exactly and my original info was useless.
No worries. I saw how you got off track. My original post was not as descriptive as it should be. Truth be told, I had an existing 4 channel amp that died that was running the in boats. It worked fine with the existing harness (with the bridging built in), but I need to get it tuned up better across the entire setup.
Thanks for the help gents!
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Originally posted by mnwakerider View PostMLA - Let me make sure I understand. The rear and mid-ship speakers are run in parallel, but the parallel configuration is managed after the harness (at the head unit). Since this is the case I need to pull the existing wiring and run it direct to my amps. I can then pull the harness all together and run everything direct to the amps.
Correct?
I ask because I poked my head under the helm last night and found that the harness has two orange 'jumpers' that go in and out of the harness (no external connection to stereo/amp) that look to be managing the parallel configuration.
The 6/600 is just for the 6 Polk speakers.
I just picked up a JL 6/600 amp and want to setup the Polk DB651s on their own channel. My current setup was the stock 4 channel (mid-ship and rear bridged).
In most ever 6 in-boat CC setup, the port side main cabin speakers are wired in parallel and the starboard side is the same. The parallel junction is usually at the mid-ship speaker. If the boat originally had only 4 in-boats, it likely did not have an amp, only the the head-unit powering those 4.
To drive 6 in-boats with a 6 chnl amp, each speaker needs to home-run to the amp. So you need to find which speakers are jumping to others, and run new wire from them to the amp.
Orange audio wires are typically the sub wires on a CC.
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