Stock 05 MM650s to db651

[Oletela]

My 05 has 6 MM650s in the boat and 4 on the tower, I got a steal of a deal on 5 pairs of db651s. I went to take a speaker out of the can and discovered the MM650s with the cross over mounted to the back of the can. The amp is a polk Pa1100.5. Bow is wired to the head unit with the rest of the boat the tower and the sub wired to the amp. What is the best way to wire the db651s in?
Thanks

[MLA]

Discard the original cross-over along with the speaker you are replacing.

[nukemustang]

Are any of the 650s still working and in decent shape? I have two out of the 6 that could be replaced and I hate to mismatch speakers. I think the ones in the bow take a much worse beating from the sun and the speaker cone and foam seem to have seperated or become very brittle.

[Oletela]

I can come up with a couple for ya. Some of them are seperated and I know the one in the kick panel is good to go, I believe the passenger side is good as well. I'll let ya know when I get em pulled out.

[a0128]

My 05 has 6 MM650s in the boat and 4 on the tower, I got a steal of a deal on 5 pairs of db651s. I went to take a speaker out of the can and discovered the MM650s with the cross over mounted to the back of the can. The amp is a polk Pa1100.5. Bow is wired to the head unit with the rest of the boat the tower and the sub wired to the amp. What is the best way to wire the db651s in?
Thanks

I'd get a JL Audio XD600/6 and home run the 6 in-boat speakers to it. This will give you 75W RMS x 6. Perfect for the db651's. Re-purpose the PA1100.5 to run the tower speakers and sub.

[MLA]

From a wattage RMS standpoint, I dont see a real seat of the pants audible difference. With the PA 1100.5, you would have one pair @ 80W rms @ 4 ohm per chnl and 62 W rms net per speaker @ 2 ohm per chnl for the other 2 pair. Both are class-D. In an open air environment like a boat, I dont think the 2 ohm v's 4 ohm SQ debate will come into play. If this boat system was being build from scratch, Id say JL over Polk all day long. But, Id still say go with a dedicated tower amp. The tower and sub zones seem to be the hardest worked zones in a boat.

[a0128]

Do you have a budget to replace the tower speakers? I am not sure how well the db651's will project. Can you hear your MM's clearly at 70 feet? Probably not much of an upgrade going to the Polks on the tower. Actually might be a downgrade as the Polks are 4 ohms versus the MM's which are 2.7 ohms (IIRC) so the amp will actually put out less watts at 4 ohms versus 2 ohms.

Another option, assuming you can live with your current speaker connectivity (i.e. HU and amp), is to replace the in-boat speakers with the db651's as planned and put a set of Wet Sound REV8's on the tower powered by a JL XD400/4 amp (bridged @ 200W per channel).

[MLA]

Sounds like the 1100.5 is driving the 4 main cabin and 4 towers on the 4 full-range chnls. Since its minimum impedance is 2 ohm, id'e bet those 2 pair of towers are wired with a pair per chnl in series @ 5.7 ohm. That's less than 40W net per speaker. If if keeps the current amp as is to drive all the speakers and rewires the tower pods to parallel. Each speakers net would increase to 60W +.

For a dedicated tower amp, I would consider the Kicker Class-D marine KXM400.2. It would deliver up to 100W rms. Thats solid power for a 6.5 tower coaxial.