Help me build my sound system from scratch

[1fst97gt]

Ok guys, i just picked up my '03 Air 206 last fall and immediately was not blown away or overly impressed/enjoyed the factory stock sound system that it came with. I'm looking to upgrade and be phased minded with 1st phase consisting of in boat speakers (6), head unit and a sub with tower speakers most likely this upcoming winter/off season.

Phase 1:
Headunit: (Bluetooth/MP3 would be a plus)
In Boats: JLMX650's
Sub: ?
Amp(s): ?

Phase 2:
Tower speakers: ?
Amp(s):

I really would like some input and help for putting together a solid sound system. I'm not overly sound system savvy so a nice list of speaker, amp and sound setup would be greatly appreciated.

I have been eyeing the JL MX650's for in boats. So a nice sub and amp to compliment that would be great! I would also like to have all the inboats ran all off an amp rather than powering any from the headunit. Other than that, that is all the ideas i have to offer. Have at it fellas, help me out!

[a0128]

As a starting point what kind of budget do you have?

[David Analog]

Certainly the JL Audio MX650s are a great speaker, warm and smooth, so moving on from there.
Unless you are doing something exceptionally large and powerful for the subwoofer you are likely going to be running a single 5 or 6 channel amplifier to drive the six in-boat coaxials and subwoofer.
You will need an independent amplifier chassis for the tower speakers when you get to that phase. And that amplifier will be determined by your tower speaker selection. So you will leave space on the amplifier panel for a second and future moderate size amplifier and a bit of room for the wiring raceway plus power cable distribution. You will also calculate the correct size of primary power cable to support both amplifiers, present and future.
Back to the subwoofer. The in-boat coaxials and subwoofer will dictate the in-boat amplifier selection. So first you need to see what your driver's side underdash provisions are for a subwoofer enclosure. Measure to find the maximum external displacement of the sub enclosure while taking into consideration leg room and any underdash obstacles, wiring, hoses, heater, fuse block, etc. Once this is resolved you can begin the selection process for the subwoofer, it's size, and the type of enclosure loading (sealed or ported).

[jchamlin]

1fst97gt, I have 4 MX650's and a Kicker Comp VR 12 on the drivers side, side firing. I think the sub box is a little on the small side, but my awesome installer (Mike - MLA) did a great job with it with just a little mod to the kick panel to vent - looks stock. 150x4 to the JL's and 600 watts to the sub. I may add a WS420 this spring to better control the sub to my liking. Different music from different audio sources require tweaking. My default setting is not a ton of bass and I want to be able to crank it up sometimes.

For a head unit, I've always had Clarion in the boat. If all speakers are amped, just look for the features at your price point.

I'm running an Arc Audio XDI 1200.6 and been really happy with it. Very loud and clean. You could run 150 x 6 off that amp for the in-boats, although channels 5 and 6 bridged, producing 600 watts is pretty sweet too. Get another amp to power the sub and future tower speakers.

Looks like you're in my area. Let me know if you want to listen.

[MLA]

Jc,

Thanks for the compliments.

After exchanging a few emails with you after you had some time in the boat, I think the enclosure we built for you is too large for your listening preferences. I like a sealed enclosure a little on the larger side, which makes it a tad mellow and extends the depth. I think you would like it a little smaller. This would make it a little more peaky and responsive. Good news is, its much easier to make a box 'smaller" then larger, so we can fine tune that sub a little more if you want.

To the OP,

Definitely plan on a dedicated amp for the tower setup. Chose the speakers and sub first, then the amp options will fall into place. Lots of good 5 and 6 chnl amp options for in-boats and subs as well as 4 chnls bridged or 2 chnl amps for tower speakers.

[1fst97gt]

Thanks for the suggestions and advice so far. I'm not positive if I would prefer to have the sub under the helm or just take up some space under the observers seat. We have a house on the lake, so losing space under there isn't a huge concern of mine, but if I could save it with good sound from placement under the helm that would be fine also. Sub wise I haven't even a clue what to even narrow my choices down to. I'm just wanting something to compliment the in boats and eventually tower speakers that has some good thump but isn't rattling everything in the boat apart either.

Budget this first time around I'm hoping for something around 2k. Is this doable with what I've listed so far?

[David Analog]

You shouldn't have any trouble maintaining your budget for the in-boat phase.
As stated above, you need to survey your unique underdash space. This will require removing the kick panel and taking a few measurements. These boats do not come off the line like a Lexus. With heaters, hoses and such there can be variances within the same year and model. Oftentimes the fuse panel can be relocated with different bracketry but without extending or altering the wiring. The maximum available exterior dimensions for a sub enclosure will determine its internal displacement. That data will make the right woofer and enclosure choice an easy one based on what combination will yield the greatest efficiency. If the driver's side project appears too daunting then the port side is certainly an option. However, because the sub will be concealed within the port locker the output will definitely be blunted in a way that hurts output but more importantly hurts bass sound quality. For that reason, I would prefer a smaller direct radiating sub on the drivers side versus a larger indirect radiating sub on the passenger side. Now, if your model has a substantial opening under the observer's seat then this helps mitigate some of the acoustical losses associated with the port side location.

[1fst97gt]

Thanks David, I will try and get the panel removed and measurements taken this weekend.

[tommy1005]

I think you'd be hard pressed to beat the output of a JL 1000/5 amp and the JL HO110-W6v3 (JL 10W6 in a ported box).