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Could someone take a look at this diagram and let me know if it makes sense. This is how my 2 battery system is currently wired. It is a mess and I don't think it works to isolate the batteries (which I think was the plan by the PO). I was going to remove the 200A relays and add a Perko style switch, but if there is a way to make this work automatically, maybe that is better. The first 200A relay has a signal and ground as well, but I am still trying to track down exactly what is sending the signal. 
Thanks.
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One thing I forgot to mention, that kind of throws me for a loop. The system will not turn on at all unless the cables running to the starting battery are hooked up. My assumption was that those would only be for charging the stereo battery once the boat is running, hence the first 200A relay. I guess I have not had the stereo battery tested, but on the meter it is putting out 12.xx volts and was on a maintainer all winter. -
This is how I have mine set up. I have a 100 Amp Alternator so I use a 100 Amp breaker on the line in from the Alt. I also have a separate 'house' circuit with it's own fuse block that I run off of battery 1, protected by a 60 Amp breaker. The Amp for the stereo is hooked to Battery 2 with an inline Heavy gauge fuse.
I usually just switch between batteries each time out. One thing I have been informed off is that if you plan to put the switch on 'both' is that in the case for charging, both batteries need to be the same amp hour/etc ... Been using this set up for over a year now with good results. If I sit and crank the tunes too much and run a battery low, I can just switch to the 'good' one and then once started, switch to the 'low' one and charge it back up....My .02Attached FilesComment
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Gut it and start over. Ditch the CAP, the Relays, the entire wiring schematic.
What do you want to be done automatically?Comment
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Originally posted by MLA View Post
This was my plan too. It would be nice to automatically combine the batteries for charging and isolate them for listening to the stereo, but I am not overly concerned with that. I have a Blue Seas battery switch to install and also a Guest 10A, 2 bank marine battery charger I can install, so both batteries can be charged when on the lift. I know blue seas sells an auto combiner too, but was trying to limit the investment on this project.
Curious why you say to ditch the capacitor?Comment
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I'd get rid of the original install...the relays and caps are unnecessary. I'd rewire with a Blue Sea ACR to automatically isolate/combine the batteries. I'd take the stereo power and ground back to a single battery with a fuse, switch, and fused distribution block between the battery and the amps.
Blue Sea recommends you connect the ACR direct to the battery to avoid voltage drop that might impact its sensing circuit, but I connect at the switch to isolate the batteries when on a two bank charger (...if you have a single bank charger, then you want the ACR to combine the batteries while charging). On boats our size with short runs of 2 ga, the voltage drop is trivial. You can use the ACR with any standard switch, but I'd suggest getting the one included with the "add a battery" kit.
I can send you my ACR wiring diagram if you PM me (it's PDF...I don't think I put it in my reply here).
RE MLA's recommendation to ditch the capaitor--IMHO it doesn't get you anything. It's just an unnecessary component waiting to cause problems. This is a great site and here's his take on caps: http://www.bcae1.com/capacitr.htm
Last edited by xrichard; 05-08-2015, 08:44 AM.Previous boats:
2015 G23
2008 SAN 210
2002 XStar
1995 Sport NautiqueComment
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What you seek can be done with no problem, and with the right components.Originally posted by azeus17 View Post
What model # blue sea switch do you have? If its a traditional 1/2/BOTH/OFF switch, it gets complicated when using an ACR and a dual bank charger. With the charger plugged in, the ACR will close and combine the banks, same as when the alternator is running. This makes it tough for the charger to condition both banks independent of each other. Dont skip if you want to do a passive/manual setup like an ACR. If you want budget friendly and functional, stick with a traditional battery switch and just get into the habit of turning it as needed.
RE CAPS.........dimming headlights are typically never a problem in boats, LOL! Seriously, more battery Ah will get you more mileage then a CAP. They are really a liability to the battery bank in a weekend toy like a boat. They bleed down then need charged back up.
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Thanks for the suggestions guys. I think I am going to skip the ACR for now as I am not too concerned with charging two batteries while running. We don't sit out and listen to music for hours on end and when we do listen for an hour or so, it is at reasonable volume. Plus, I already have the battery charger and access to 120v AC at the lift, so it is a quick plug in. Knowing that I will have a fully charged backup is good peace of mind for me.
One question though. I know you should fuse any power wire coming off a battery, but the current 2/0 main power cable is not fused (don't plan to fuse that coming off the common post), but should I be putting a fuse in line between the switch and the two batteries? For the starting battery, the run will be short 12"-18". For the stereo battery, it will be about 4-5 ft (from passenger storage area to bow on a 210). I feel as thought the answer is yes, so it leads to another question, what size fuse/breaker? As either battery would have potential to be a starting battery, what is the requirement there?
Attached is the simple diagram I am planning on using.
Thanks again!Attached FilesComment
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Diag look good. Not necessary to have circuit protection on main battery cables.Comment
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I like your diagram. Easy and safe.
I am really interested in what in the crap the PO was trying to accomplish, and why he did it in let's call it a 'non-traditional' way. I am not even sure what it does.Comment
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