Learn Me... Simple Stereo 00 Pro Air

[Treybizttu]

I might have even posted this before but I need suggestions. We are nearing our colder season and I'm going to do some work on the boat this "winter".

I need some audio suggestions.

My existing Equipment:

HU: Kenwood KMR-M312BT
4x Alpine SPS-M600



-We aren't party cove people. I'd like for anybody behind the windshield to be able to hear the radio while under way. I'm avoiding tower speakers at this point.
-I want some bass and a little more volume.
- Simple install and/or easily removable. I'd like to install myself but not opposed to paying somebody. We have kicked around the idea of upgrading to a little newer v-drive CC with our lake neighbors but backed off that this year.
- I don't really want to go down the rabbit hole of: multiple batteries, alternator upgrades, etc...
- My initial thought was a 5 or 6 channel single amp to power the 4 in-boats and a sub. Plus a sub in a simple sealed enclosure.
- Since we are generally on our home lake with a house there and pull the boat out every night I can lose a little storage space. (IE. the boat generally isn't packed to the gills with gear)


Sooo,
Where should I mount the amp and sub? I like under the helm but don't really want to mess with relocating everything under there.
Recommendations on sub and amp?
Local Shop in DFW? (I think buxton does some stuff but outsources to Scream Marine Maybe?) I've used AutoSound before on a boat with good results.

[MLA]

For a very solid setup that wont break the bank: Kicker KXM400.4 and Kicker KM10 marine 10" woofer. The KXM400.4 will deliver spot on RMS wattage to the existing 4 in-boats and the new 10" woofer. The amp can be mounted over in the port mid-ship locker, but a wall or board may need to be put in place to secure it to.

May not be exactly like your model, but here is a 1.2 ft3 custom enclosure housing a 12" woofer. The original facade was reused but needed a little altering.

[kend]

On your cabin speakers; I would recommend going for something fairly powerful (the 6.5" wetsounds or similar would work in the stock locations) and then make sure you use a class "D" amp which will draw much less power and not require extra batteries that a class A or B would. If you are moving more than 5-10mph in an open boat you need 75-100 watts per channel to keep sound from being drown out by wind. I put toggle switches so I can shut the amps down and just use HU power when motor is not running. I'm running 1050 watts RMS and get by with 1 small battery, but that is probably cutting it close.

[Treybizttu]

Not really looking to replace my cabin speakers since these are less than a year old.

Think I'm going to run what I have with a JL XD700/5 and a JL 10w3 I bought local for cheap.

[kend]

OK, that's a good class D amp that would put 180w@4ohm to your sub (a little low unless you can use the 2ohm config and get to 300w - depending on how loud you want to get). That 10w3 sub would work perfect with a box that fits under the helm as long as you go with sealed box about 18x11x9-.75mdf. You will probably want to move the breaker box to the opposite side of the helm assuming its on the inside now (no big deal). You will need 4ga power and ground cables, so a short route is to mount your amp under the helm as well.

[a0128]

Take a look at this solution if you are looking for an enclosure for your JL 10w3. It is engineered specifically for that sub driver and can be Rhino coated.

http://www.lifeafterbass.com/labsl1ftpomd13.html

Did you get the 2 ohm or 4 ohm version of the 10w3?

[Treybizttu]

I got the 4 Ohm Version.

It came with a simple enclosure that is already coated. It was actually done by earmark or somebody local for a boat. Came out of a closed bow SN.

My boat already has 4GA ran to the observer side for both power and ground as well as JL Speaker Wire from the 4- Cabin Speakers. I honestly ran it while I was rebuilding my boat last winter which was before I found examples of people running the sub at the drivers feet. For Simplicity I might leave it over there for the time being. I know it's not the most effective setup and will cost me some storage space but chalk it up to a lesson learned. I just wanted to run all the wires I thought I might ever need while I had the entire interior, motor/trans, and fuel tank out of it.

[kend]

If it's Earmark it's probably good. You could check to see if it fits under the helm or deal with cutting up the boat for vents on the passenger side. If it fits I would move the wires to the other side; if not your choice is made.

[Treybizttu]

Seems like there is a large air gap between the observer seat bottom and the gunnel wall. I figured that would be enough airflow. I'm not real fond of cutting random vent holes so I'm gong to crawl around under the helm this weekend to see how much of a chore that will be. And I don't remember exactly but I'm pretty sure my boat doesn't have the "hump" under there.